tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-341944622024-02-04T03:39:13.334+09:00Korean TimesI started this blog to document the cultural experiences I have had while living and working in Seoul, South Korea. I hope I do the country justice.Lhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07266164231840295693noreply@blogger.comBlogger36125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-34194462.post-36917127826647493632008-09-01T16:22:00.006+09:002010-12-23T01:41:57.902+09:00Time to Say GoodbyeIt is time to say goodbye to Korea.<br />
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<div align="justify">God, how I've learned! It has been an incredible journey. Rife with pleasure, confusion and pain. And I am so utterly grateful for the experiences I've had. I have discovered parts of the country that have uplifted me and brought me to a higher plane of understanding about humanity, life, culture, food, language...</div><div align="justify"><br />
</div><div align="justify">With each country I immerse myself in, I feel uplifted. It has been a hard journey, traveling around so much, having to start over time after time. But it has been worth it. Because the greatest joy in my life, the most constant joy, has been discovery.</div><div align="justify"><br />
</div><div align="justify">You see, I do not have a home. Sometimes, I feel like I have never had one. I am grateful to have come from a multi-cultural background. My mother, Italian, my father, Haitian. I wouldn't trade it for anything. But with such diversity, comes difficulty. Where do I belong? Who am I? Will I find a place which speaks to me enough to compel me to stay put? Or do I have the bug? Am I destined to travel for the rest of my days?</div><div align="justify"><br />
</div><div align="justify">I do not know the answer. All I can say is that I'm going to keep looking. Perhaps one day I will find that one place. Perhaps one day, I will also find the person who completes the puzzle. Someone who will understand me, or will at least have the patience to try. </div><div align="justify"><br />
</div><div align="justify">There is one thing I can always count on in this world and that is the joy and peace I feel when I travel. That feeling of discovery, that split second of pure agape, that will never let me down. Perhaps I truly am a global warrior, as a stranger once called me. </div><div align="justify"><br />
</div><div align="justify">I have to hope that I can find that place, in my heart, where I can be at peace with this lifestyle, but until then, I must thank those people who have made my life here worth living.</div><div align="justify"><br />
</div><div align="justify">To the many students I've had at YBM. You have taught me so much about Korea. You have patiently and open-mindedly shown me what family really means. The difficulties and duties involved, the precious link to one's family that can never be erased. You have shown me your conservative sides, yes, but also that inner part of you that wants to fly away for a day and do what it is your heart truly desires. Thank you for showing me that.</div><div align="justify"><br />
</div><div align="justify">And so with that, I thank those who have opened their hearts to me more than the average Korean would. Thank you to <strong>Soo Hyong</strong>, who gave me my first gift: a bookmark to thank me for teaching; thank you to <strong>Mi Hwa</strong> who helped me discover Gyongbokgung palace and see how people once lived; thank you to <strong>K Young</strong>, who wrote me an adorable note thanking me for teaching him; thank you to <strong>Jae Woo</strong> who gave me a New year's card and another one apologizing to me for asking (cheekily) why I wore heels when I was already tall (I responded by telling him that it was vanity); to <strong>David</strong> for giving me flowers to thank me for teaching him (it lifted my spirits and he'll never know how much); to <strong>BongHwan</strong> with whom I share an uncertainty about the future, I loved our conversations on what would become of us in the future. I hope you follow the dream that comes to you; thank you to <strong>PaulKim</strong> who bought me an electronic dictionary so that I could communicate better in Korean; thank you to <strong>Harry</strong> who's words, gifts and spirit uplifted me; thank you to <strong>Kerry</strong>, who in his infinite good humor and confusion, alsways brought a smile to my face; to <strong>Jude</strong> and<strong> Bill</strong>, willing to accompany me on strange outings on the town to show me more of Korean culture (you guys rock!);to <strong>Drago</strong>, with a name that befits his dragon-like roar of a voice, always present and heard and seen with a wit to accompany his strength (congratulations on your nuptials). </div><div align="justify"></div><div align="justify">And to the multitude of other students who gave me gifts along the way: vitamin C to help me get over my fatigue, drinks and sweets to thank me for just being me. And for all the others who told me that I was the best teacher they had ever had, a boost for the morale that I will never forget.</div><br />
<img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5239833479613663842" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhtn1CjxhhqQVGp7W_0XBh_YLytFQXWR5YAPYKJUuBpsCTJXv1DOBI0St6nkKszo4yLWUgD1XT2vrIRHQOOQaoND6wqRH3vjUy0XyPwh-Lk4h4d66Is68AMpKwPk0VstCxOUC4MA/s400/000007.JPG" style="cursor: hand; display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center;" /><strong>Bill and Jude</strong><br />
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<div style="text-align: justify;">And among those students are Neo and Peter, two really cool cats who took a risk on a foreigner and agreed to accompany me on a weekend trip to Andong, not knowing how things would pan out. They helped distract me from the personal stresses I've been dealing with, and brought forth an energy and eagerness for discovery that I found I enjoyed just as much as if I had been alone. Most times I don't like to travel with others because I feel restricted by compromise, but not with them. They were awesome and I will hold that weekend close to my heart. They gave without expecting anything in return. As a result, I too, gave and it was well worth it. I laughed all weekend. Thanks guys for that.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5206824769597803554" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAHsjgQ8mdWqt5LaegqAik5vC1S_avP2-S5MLwWVvWOev88hBcu0BVJUXcd_iToZi4e-N1pI_OMrWhKmLESK1DpI6yoDx-tQTxu2rar2juLF53xApvR537s5JZONJcpGu4AxCJUg/s400/Neo+and+Peter.JPG" style="cursor: hand; display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center;" /><strong> Neo and Peter</strong><br />
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<div align="justify">And to MinJong aka Skitsch, who started off as my student and bloomed into a friend. An artist in her own right who can express herself, perfectly, in three languages: Korean, English and through the art of drawing. She will always hold a space in my heart. She who is pure and real and pushes forth regardless of the obstacles she is faced with.</div><br />
<img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5231600871113369138" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEsf0CbHUAL20M0tNmFSiRBbJQvg5zekjn1FH1SR7fH_niH1SCencV24aStoryaAAMqnAT68v-EgW2D_KaBaVqR79kt8RQ1jMmvld7deOCs9y_HlYQlqyk-UjgK7BT3tuuYWerfA/s400/000008.JPG" style="cursor: hand; display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center;" /><strong>MinJong</strong><br />
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<div style="text-align: justify;">To Son Mi, my former Korean teacher/friend/taekwondo partner/guide who invited me into her family's world. She showed me what Chuseok was really about and in her unique and quirky world and way, showed me that is was possible to blend tradition and modernity into one person. She will be remembered with fondness and perplexion (love, regardless!).</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5215815772546225410" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTMnLw5TXnYas-RZUaEAu8MCurwPvzcdhYZps-E_2E-8IQjkKEja2KwsHEVQ-Si6POpa9bJU2K69r1PvFXXdBqLUxD5WGQIplTiiJWKO-CDtli10FdI0_-v5UBB7G4hObcdHJnMA/s400/000035.JPG" style="cursor: hand; display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center;" /></div><br />
<div><strong>Son Mi</strong></div><br />
<div style="text-align: justify;">To my Sabomnim, my Taekwondo Master, DuYong , someone who accepted to teach me for free. He is a good man, sweet, patient and funny. It was a good year of work and though I didn't get to the black belt, I got to brown, two belts away. Perhaps one day I will complete that training and reach that coveted black. Thank you.<br />
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</div><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5239832786821315570" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgf4sYjXoH8W3c_enIs6zMrgGK6BfLXVRq5wH0cvD5gj2cgZxcFgCvyzSS6uQ8KO78eOpFmR_OVYypIR_LQ1WARt4LRSJf6Hr6KedJRMYszoU8xq20MDRysNBQBYvd1UDfrf4kOCg/s400/000011.JPG" style="cursor: hand; display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center;" /> <strong>Me, DuYong and Latisha, another student. </strong><br />
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<div align="justify">To Seung Hyon, who adopted me after Jong In and Seung Ah left YBM Guro. I could count on her to help me out in times of need. Her quirky personality, brisk at times, relaxed and playful at others, constantly confused me, but I enjoyed every minute. Thanks for letting me get to know you!<br />
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</div><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5236512869233869858" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqjJrb2JeWKdoQ2q_Q5Lgkeo0i3ISLFv-z-bXmSYpaismeoFe3uw8wDMvJYu6G2e-DjlKziod7t80sIz-R-U45VSSX-Wx3B7MSOTG562t5N-dnRt_I8HVqqB6nYTpv9WEsRAOZWQ/s400/000017.JPG" style="cursor: hand; display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center;" /> <strong>Seung Hyon</strong><br />
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<div align="justify">To Todd, a former co-worker who coaxed me out on several nights on the town, who introduced me to the wine club and who always found something to love. He will be remembered with a smile and though he is gone from this world, he made a mark on our lives here at Guro and I'll never forget him.<br />
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</div><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5206829149553972834" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPvdpI-BlX3p9TI5dzvhZ_qS1Yl8qNs3PlHXVv4sb-VhjDcDWgXf3iD9Y8SJM1T5AXAd1v3CoVhICJsazLVnm0FKUB9PiJOnmyPqfpzT6w235GkLyMqWhf_7SWNKz8e8QuL0zTOQ/s400/todd.JPG" style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center;" /><strong> Todd</strong><br />
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<div align="justify">To Hayden, the founder of the Gangnam wine club, an Aussie in all his glory, with the heart of a poet. He is the kind of man I would want to have. Honest, sometimes harsh in his perspectives, but always caring and someone who gave me his time and lent me his ear when I was in the throes of despair. I wish you all the luck in the world to achieve all you have worked towards.<br />
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<img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5241001612617316178" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgqsvw2JiaZnABbYzim5en-MGgWG1AHBlvkiX34694XOlLrrcg3tOFjRkqjGYwJsRkcZTI7ZWTOROxhcC7rCSFfnkHO9er-A7Uwlvny1lldYLTv6_QpsX0nhuTQikUiIwfB_OTQA/s400/000014.JPG" style="cursor: hand; display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center;" /></div><strong>Hayden</strong><br />
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<div align="justify">And to Sewon, Hayden's significant other. I didn't get a chance to spend much time with her, but every time I did, I learned something: about peace, joy, innocence and the possibility that happiness is possible. Thank you for those lessons.<br />
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<img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5241001617326035362" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhx3TE660lE6cOuRWz7IEKJyq91hXY2Ygb1KAfEfUWDKFxuFJmWvFQIq_yPpvE48Vd_C7ng-p-STFqBowzfGTFrvgdEPqqTA-YjZBRJIs_AIAmlISlhstLKyntGfh9mPIuLgXnDww/s400/000013.JPG" style="cursor: hand; display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center;" /></div><strong>Sewon</strong><br />
<div align="justify"><br />
To John, a friend that I almost didn't get to know. I'm glad I let him into my life. He filled it with sarcasm, humor and the infinite gift for gab. He allowed me to enjoy my last couple months at YBM without slitting my throat. Instead, we did the Korean Times crossword puzzles and had morning coffee at Belita, smoking like two chimneys during Christmas time. </div><div align="justify"><br />
</div><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5236512874197857666" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjN5urCsKP3AzxXWffvaKRhfeGEzKtdCICID5m92MWFhE-Jt7WU1pC30PP-9xdQTg9ATOD3rBs6DMLY2OF3Ho0MJNppTxs5mNmhZW1aSSfzwCs5453ecbDcgGOZiawKR1x3jIAnNQ/s400/000023.JPG" style="cursor: hand; display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center;" /><br />
<strong>John</strong><br />
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To Keith, a recent friend who impressed me with conversations that made my mind work again. A newcomer to Korea, I hope that he will enjoy it as much as I have. That he will take the good and remember those and leave this beautiful and perplexing country one day, all that much richer for the experience.</div><div align="justify"><br />
</div><div align="justify"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5241005012177389138" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRhDtjJ7fkCXs-1A1AudSe6MvfOEEpoLtEgKh5FsvloLspRDiG3pBYc2DedmuJsB9wK0LNK-6Duk-ACUHxIS3F3ngZdIvI6Wu14aWRoLMlSeglF3RVFwYYvpm9ax9Hb-hKz7Im0Q/s400/IMGP3084.JPG" style="cursor: hand; display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center;" /><strong>Keith</strong></div><div align="justify"><br />
To Steve, the consummate jokester and the one friend I knew before arriving here. He, who could always diffuse a tense moment, bring laughter to the Korean classes and imbibe me with impressions of Korea that would have taken longer to figure out on my own. He, who found his place here and who has a reason to stay. Thank you for allowing this girl to partake of your favorite Seoul spots, experience things by your side, and thank you for listening to me bitch from time to time.<br />
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<img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5236512872948743074" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNyOlXzH67REDNJEA-1MZiayOMffTgZlgYuY-tMdfvPZ8G7VPPpLAMRjJkHincyOdSx3KpxjRfCRhTIEs3uzaBgx2Mf2eljz6qPaWZCSbcLwMp2rwhtUg3Py2Sk-m1K81S_imd-Q/s400/000021.JPG" style="cursor: hand; display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center;" /><strong>Steve</strong><br />
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To Seung-Ah and Jong-In, my two closest girlfriends here. Women who have always had my back. True friends that I could never have asked more from. <br />
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</div><div align="justify">Seung-Ah who risked her sanity and accompanied me on my trip to Jeju Island last year; a moment that solidified our relationship. I like to call her my twin because we are born on the same day. She is the more realistic and grounded side of me. We have shared moments of truth that I cannot and would not want to forget.<br />
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<img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5207452174170162450" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsX7ZlYJHUl1VlO-Xl5hxT699GtZ7yVcyt-ykcdWqpGRUY0DYoUMVyuzv4zU_Hsz1rPxfFtB-KFRIguBZBAUpNtVPu9mmIItww40JZrhaiFw-8GCkrnYNnyEsJhMYrCwwi8sFoZg/s400/000008.JPG" style="cursor: hand; display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center;" /></div><strong>Seung-Ah</strong><br />
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<div align="justify">And Jong-In, one of the only people in this world who has the capability of being completely open. Someone who was able to listen to all my mistakes, all my shortcomings, all of my darkness and never judge. She who could allow me to say and do anything, and I knew that she would love me regardless. These are friendships that you must always hold close to your heart. It is not everyday that you can experience that kind of purity. That kind of love.<br />
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<img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5236513091814824258" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkQTAyoPtH9XBvCJMwjrtTrVFcNYfwDCrtbI0MjP1kaeuJfsnTxkLUdOpo6y8-zRX9LXa-RPyDnnZXRKwh1kClXXoT6H-o-6g04cmkA5MTdhjr9qmtroDdT-rMz_nUI5aDyIwTMg/s400/000018.JPG" style="cursor: hand; display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center;" /></div><strong>Jong-In</strong><br />
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<div align="justify">And to all those other people who cannot be named because there are too many to count and too many of you whose names I don't know. You have all helped me make it here and have brought kindness to a girl who needed it from time to time; from the strangers who lent me their umbrellas on rainy days, to those people who took the time to try to understand me speak in Korean and smiled the whole way through. Thank you.<br />
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</div><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5239833799180120482" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEVDQpxXFhLPw6QcKfk8muiFKG7EZxf83FKUjhaslhEPHO4WkJ196KVclIM8HQIO7BX56vMyR43vPYocRo2YX3uZ_JJI4CZ2BIJRvH8WKYpE2U7O9U4qVwZqUuij7oygARBFuaxQ/s400/1.jpg" style="cursor: hand; display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center;" /> <strong>A kitchy portrait of my friends from YBM! It was Seung Ah's idea. I swear!</strong><br />
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<div align="justify">Thank you to you all. You have made this trip worth taking. I will cherish the memories and hold them close to my heart. Perhaps one day, my wanderings will take me back to Seoul and we can recapture some of the joys we once experienced.</div><br />
<div align="justify">This draws to an end my Korea blog. I hope that it has been somewhat of a journey for you, too. I could have written so much more and yet I let laziness, difficulty and distraction get in the way. I hope to start a new blog in the not too distant future. </div><br />
<div align="justify">I am a global warrior, it's time to write about other places, other things, other food, other experiences. I hope you will take that journey with me too.</div><br />
<div align="justify">Lots of love,</div><br />
<div align="justify">L</div>Lhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07266164231840295693noreply@blogger.com12tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-34194462.post-4717171373844761532008-09-01T02:48:00.006+09:002010-12-23T01:44:30.352+09:00The Korean Art of Apple CrackingAbout a month ago, I went to one of three convenience stores where I have a good rapport with the owners, all women. One woman, after I had purchased a few things, took a Granny Smith apple and before my eyes, cracked it open with her own bare hands! I was in awe! She then offered me one of the halves and sent me on my way. I've been wanting to "crack" the mystery ever since.<br />
Below is my first attempt at doing it. We all tried it on our way back from Busan a couple of weeks ago.<br />
<div align="center"><iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.blogger.com/video.g?token=AD6v5dxFxEM37xnf4VkdT95zRwOMlG_5xWi6AzgMzz3NlS8hdPpYcvvq3CicdtTE5wC4vWRXlq6HeMsUu5Y' class='b-hbp-video b-uploaded' frameborder='0'></iframe></div><br />
<div align="center"></div>Here is my second attempt.<br />
<div align="center"><br />
<iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.blogger.com/video.g?token=AD6v5dwTlq2z1LtAdhn3lwVBRVb9DipVR1wP34LEQT4_JY2Ls5V2UgjGsNBsjBAVwDplBJnWEXFzMXwgeaA' class='b-hbp-video b-uploaded' frameborder='0'></iframe></div><br />
<div align="center"></div>Finally, last Sunday I was with John and Keith and I wanted to show them this amazing woman. We asked her if she could demonstrate her amazing talent and she insisted I could do it too, ignoring my protests. Here we are attempting it together. <br />
<div align="center"><iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.blogger.com/video.g?token=AD6v5dw7zhvcV9cphwfYjH-0pxs4_Gx9pXv6NfoUudaWUZeZmf6LLTVdtXorbqVadA6X-AL2FErStlLY2A' class='b-hbp-video b-uploaded' frameborder='0'></iframe></div><div align="left">Oh my God! I can't believe it! I rock! The art and mystery of Korean apple cracking has been mastered.</div>Lhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07266164231840295693noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-34194462.post-40804320728788908392008-08-29T16:17:00.007+09:002010-12-23T01:47:51.231+09:00Lamb skewers, Noraebang boogie, A night in Soondae Town, Wine Degustation<img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5239836698806369074" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHt15Z9c0iAOnNtJhk2KC7CaIC8eKfmaupdSNB4V8UxXwN9O5p7tr0i7R3sRyoRLHWTUxATJcdDEt6yzMhDzEmWzQ_vbV6mJFFlXdZeQHnxbtySQ81O4hUGSRGVDd2auds1JaMOQ/s400/000019.JPG" style="cursor: hand; display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center;" /><br />
Chinese-Style Lamb Skewers in Hongdae; a popular hang out since lamb is not readily eaten in Korea.<br />
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<img alt="" border="0" height="395" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5239836705750324994" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhN7-_Rnggx_3rYqTKy33JvmBf97lcs26M3jEx-WhhQYmdEgBXU9dcLGSLoZtJszgulfpFeytkD9HL0HLniGcH2rpwWsGbxuQZG6zID50dLU0bOkBUm2B-ju8PTXKNdh93q9bnI7w/s400/HPIM5244.JPG" style="cursor: hand; display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center;" width="303" /><br />
Seung- Ah, who got married in February, is pregnant and misses her beer!<br />
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<img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5239836979215445122" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicvz6Jiw_pge5-5qE0v5_gWGfWjrbImjiKMrpv_85rFnjyqL1JZdBT_F9CvP0Hduli3SvU3pez-R8t1f8J_VlFdxB0-GO_YXEa1c83geZpJTHCpCJac1KIB0X72vDs7M2Q-5U2Fw/s400/DSCF3301.JPG" style="cursor: hand; display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center;" /><br />
The old YBM gang, save John, enjoying our alcohol! Poor Seung- Ah! She's taking the picture because she can't drink!<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbY6DOjDBh9e77UaUHCJqe2EgZRmWhoaPeJJGH3-sneKNDOJAu3ZA6N75P6fr0_GeTGgHS_4X6w-_QeUjX94EeMT1kMSBsbUKoSTz7ifSIKwfYtsHedXvEiV3w5j6Lrc_dg80yxQ/s1600-h/000007.JPG"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5239839581682724338" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbY6DOjDBh9e77UaUHCJqe2EgZRmWhoaPeJJGH3-sneKNDOJAu3ZA6N75P6fr0_GeTGgHS_4X6w-_QeUjX94EeMT1kMSBsbUKoSTz7ifSIKwfYtsHedXvEiV3w5j6Lrc_dg80yxQ/s400/000007.JPG" style="cursor: hand; display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center;" /></a><br />
These cool cats, former students of mine, Bill and Jude, took me out for Soondae as a going-away meal.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhP2pxmLPXwaiJ5dn5N8e303n6UXJeVVirLNx0tgwol0SNQ3TIK8-ByApHyF3Pmz-OpRBA710-1jz_1UtiQSrBHQEKYOb3wBHsjwT0VQwMwv3RoeuvJZS8Vhyphenhyphen_xq4Tili1hqkqtJQ/s1600-h/000008.JPG"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5239839588965259938" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhP2pxmLPXwaiJ5dn5N8e303n6UXJeVVirLNx0tgwol0SNQ3TIK8-ByApHyF3Pmz-OpRBA710-1jz_1UtiQSrBHQEKYOb3wBHsjwT0VQwMwv3RoeuvJZS8Vhyphenhyphen_xq4Tili1hqkqtJQ/s400/000008.JPG" style="cursor: hand; display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center;" /></a>Here I am in my silly bib. Tired from this past month of packing and arranging for my departure.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOO9NfZZFKhgGPL5T41I5WJdeDPeZgrVN2UnAGnXGtV26w2u2S6hAg4-waig346yFe2SH3a1Vk3T6AIK88wXN_jC8-a2UwBj_8YMGz3q9swJNBRFtyCzr1J7nAxC776VnfxTdC7w/s1600-h/000009.JPG"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5239839589735146722" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOO9NfZZFKhgGPL5T41I5WJdeDPeZgrVN2UnAGnXGtV26w2u2S6hAg4-waig346yFe2SH3a1Vk3T6AIK88wXN_jC8-a2UwBj_8YMGz3q9swJNBRFtyCzr1J7nAxC776VnfxTdC7w/s400/000009.JPG" style="cursor: hand; display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center;" /></a> Soondae and Kop Chang (blood sausage and Tripe with a spicy veggie accompaniment)<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6cZukJW875qF34zzbQY_3MkdlWCOvkpK5lKMQXWcR9tu25o83BB1FCaCMGHdc7u-skFyKesIzeJR5QFjWDmPJ-39JPL6nEzZ9bFeqKTiL6ZXiN__b80IWdLq8pQEKazVpiWkNaw/s1600-h/000010.JPG"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5239836130089913298" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6cZukJW875qF34zzbQY_3MkdlWCOvkpK5lKMQXWcR9tu25o83BB1FCaCMGHdc7u-skFyKesIzeJR5QFjWDmPJ-39JPL6nEzZ9bFeqKTiL6ZXiN__b80IWdLq8pQEKazVpiWkNaw/s400/000010.JPG" style="cursor: hand; display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center;" /></a> My favorite wine bar in the world: Grandmother, located in Sinsa-Dong.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNasgQbjTmYd0KDHka-w87LdbjlodtrQdiHfOtK8bHrIC-we5Br8KlrdS6PNtstcNHlgcIgAFPPu9MhpVyvxbJFO3FtGELEYqxKyAGQtoxuGtSU9o_mBUMRjzYPZJDDCK2xpEpTA/s1600-h/000012.JPG"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5239836134023291186" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNasgQbjTmYd0KDHka-w87LdbjlodtrQdiHfOtK8bHrIC-we5Br8KlrdS6PNtstcNHlgcIgAFPPu9MhpVyvxbJFO3FtGELEYqxKyAGQtoxuGtSU9o_mBUMRjzYPZJDDCK2xpEpTA/s400/000012.JPG" style="cursor: hand; display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center;" /></a> Grandmother: the owner is an interior designer who has very eclectic tastes. I love her style!<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYQNMtl594wXM4m6HWsw925F7N_G3ecnm4nTMlswIoDA7ItgIL3Gh4hOhs0-zDOSABdYeviZ5j4p4L68Qy2d-5lEbmBi6NrHChgbDk43Pj6W9cu5Z1P8nc-y4OMP0nuU0lOKfmmQ/s1600-h/000014.JPG"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5239836135580568322" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYQNMtl594wXM4m6HWsw925F7N_G3ecnm4nTMlswIoDA7ItgIL3Gh4hOhs0-zDOSABdYeviZ5j4p4L68Qy2d-5lEbmBi6NrHChgbDk43Pj6W9cu5Z1P8nc-y4OMP0nuU0lOKfmmQ/s400/000014.JPG" style="cursor: hand; display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center;" /></a> Entrance to Grandmother with John, MinJong and Keith standing under the umbrellas.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDVMPHb7dsO7deZo3CmVGTD0gEoxQORpyq3AgHS069OoW-mvgD2-rpZt8uTx8VLfRA42IeXlEBBvEwJru6dWvRZkYlC2caAfLo4WZMgBXMarbCkvzXFE9xo76fu_gYdjY7Dzl0Iw/s1600-h/000028.JPG"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5239836143067129298" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDVMPHb7dsO7deZo3CmVGTD0gEoxQORpyq3AgHS069OoW-mvgD2-rpZt8uTx8VLfRA42IeXlEBBvEwJru6dWvRZkYlC2caAfLo4WZMgBXMarbCkvzXFE9xo76fu_gYdjY7Dzl0Iw/s400/000028.JPG" style="cursor: hand; display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center;" /></a> A noraebang night in Sillim. It was awesome!<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHjVbmIMgwjZdIPriK_nd0ZHPA-p9SRaUQOo0JX-s7vewk8q4_2EaZY9sjYKmMB4XHwg4MHZvxTU8ZdrsKH_vS7rnURDMUZyTe_R1eNhZDcWlmN9Z8XHDuCt9ONwldSymihq-ECQ/s1600-h/000030.JPG"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5239836146761955554" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHjVbmIMgwjZdIPriK_nd0ZHPA-p9SRaUQOo0JX-s7vewk8q4_2EaZY9sjYKmMB4XHwg4MHZvxTU8ZdrsKH_vS7rnURDMUZyTe_R1eNhZDcWlmN9Z8XHDuCt9ONwldSymihq-ECQ/s400/000030.JPG" style="cursor: hand; display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center;" /></a> Afterwards we enjoyed Pineapple soju in a real pineapple! The white stuff is crushed ice. Pretty nice presentation, if you ask me!Lhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07266164231840295693noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-34194462.post-79102588589277888722008-08-28T12:30:00.034+09:002010-12-23T02:05:42.140+09:00A Trippy Taste of Busan<div align="justify"><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5239410062397167042" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdU8w8bnAbj4yseFF0FibxsspLGpsX9QsboG4pa4zKlqTJ9OVhdK-KhEbAR4wl2jXY6nUAG3Re_EfseplgutNihk2_sh3qBVOxiRusbLVPpjJrtdTHjgN4g2NyICDIQACQ20tXIw/s400/000017.JPG" style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center;" /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Above is the morning sky after the storm had passed</td></tr>
</tbody></table></div><div align="justify">A couple of weeks ago I persuaded John, Keith and MinJong to accompany me to Busan for a long weekend of fun. We headed down on the midnight bus Thursday night. When we arrived on Friday morning, at 5:30am, we were assaulted by a heavy downpour chockfull of wind. We hailed a cab, all of us in varying stages of fatigue (me being the grumpiest, I admit) and headed out to SeongJong beach. The cab driver was crazy! We hydroplaned all the way to the beach, a harrowing 15 minutes of pure terror. I would keep asking him to slow down, which he would do for about 30 seconds and then proceed to speed up just as the highway was drowned in several inches of water. I still can't believe we arrived there without being killed.</div><div align="justify"><br />
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</div><div align="justify"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5240986881930023042" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgn4hVaCTZBwBtW_wh0R9gP9TxutXWOshpF3R3dVUQBUnhpIbbI5tlSN12iZA9ASN3FqdF4MLtQoubnwJX0RWTtuA4oVvNjrcwqRSpNHsQaYH7dVzPkyn3subdN0c_bqI-kKu_MDA/s400/000008.JPG" style="cursor: hand; display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center;" />We stayed in this Minbak, a one-room apartment complete with kitchen for us to share.</div><div align="justify"><br />
</div><div align="justify"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtvCMm4LMlu2SOLvrDobOVe2BG46lyken5uyBHpar8iSIzAdPhyphenhyphenSkjXTQgzojflK3KDFy0v4Ve8GE2X8fG4Z6DnT8o25lARJ-eD-lGGh93fVaCyxGR-zrfGGrAbBE7job5yIO8tg/s1600-h/000021.JPG"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5239410067164357010" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtvCMm4LMlu2SOLvrDobOVe2BG46lyken5uyBHpar8iSIzAdPhyphenhyphenSkjXTQgzojflK3KDFy0v4Ve8GE2X8fG4Z6DnT8o25lARJ-eD-lGGh93fVaCyxGR-zrfGGrAbBE7job5yIO8tg/s400/000021.JPG" style="cursor: hand; display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center;" /></a> After a two-hour nap, in the early afternoon, we headed off for some food. We found a quaint restaurant on the beach with tables set out beneath a pine tree, over-looking the bay. We had fantastic raw fish and enjoyed our soju-coke cocktails as well. Deee-lish!</div><div align="justify"><br />
</div><div align="justify"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5240996322527677490" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicvmj05tSq6VW-KVgJFVEhoMmo_bxwtWmWw5YxiiH3JU6uvuy4sHvdJRBDC85k-T92c3TqRz1Eq621YlT8kWYrW47R1jTQySOpuOV5yj4Tof-y2kzjxTqSJ51uQDfzNgS2Rwdp1A/s400/000025.JPG" style="cursor: hand; display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center;" />After lunch we walked over to a beautiful oceanside temple called Yong Gung Sa. This Buddha's belly is black from all the rubbing!</div><div align="justify"><br />
</div><div align="justify"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcF0z78FV1hQbhZscoDLd3Uf-sLU2SYtp81twRxG0si48Qefp8qIlOORBUYjxdovpE3e4JfUnG0ZZ1X63k61K9m0DMTe1b4tMXk8xM3f9yT9IIyGS7M64NYJchUM6OVmrlqjuxng/s1600-h/000033.JPG"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5239410081091728962" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcF0z78FV1hQbhZscoDLd3Uf-sLU2SYtp81twRxG0si48Qefp8qIlOORBUYjxdovpE3e4JfUnG0ZZ1X63k61K9m0DMTe1b4tMXk8xM3f9yT9IIyGS7M64NYJchUM6OVmrlqjuxng/s400/000033.JPG" style="cursor: hand; display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center;" /></a> Yong means dragon, so how fitting that there was one greeting us upon arrival!</div><div align="justify"><br />
</div><div align="justify"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5239409085395557186" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_vp_YHspMOOXeV5QAn9Dhmu2VTGE9PMQJWr8uY9Forhsn_nB6B3ablWlv-fgySvzr75S6DeSaz3g0yr4L-vRm8573OPHj2ga9KHgnyhpZU0W2yPh9K6nQSA5cY1uX7FDKFtR1rw/s400/000010.JPG" style="cursor: hand; display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center;" /> That night we had a barbeque on the rooftop of the Minbak. We bought all the ingredients and here is MinJong posing for a glamorous shot of our dinner!</div><div align="justify"><br />
</div><div align="justify"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5239409089495881762" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_t7RywPW-EclKyJ-ezdvIPntNSReit7wllQQz7IoXT8lzZA51dxygqpWMx4w7lrh8_768HiDf56Re2g4HMW8KENJ3s1g4xpDPMaLgPGvI2RaPn8H6fAS_-mRZ1yNkR9KtNz8GUw/s400/000011.JPG" style="cursor: hand; display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center;" /></div><div align="justify">The next day, on Jong In's recommendation (she is from Busan), we went to a famous Mul Hwe restaurant. It's a spicy raw fish dish served cold.</div><div align="justify"><br />
</div><div align="justify"><br />
</div><div align="justify"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5239409092763405186" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwrSND1Fnv9s5jSELdtwtB-DaM5apKv5XITo2rylx5C-7NBrg0jkMEoZ9dWuxsVDMZHwrQvZT37oXMeOhWgUYjdBkqT_cTz1-LlsM2jlTgTqp_YpWE24u75tChxIG2rmB_YHdO4Q/s400/000013.JPG" style="cursor: hand; display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center;" /> This is how it looks after you've mixed in the spicy sauce. It was really good!</div><div align="justify"><br />
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</div><div align="justify"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5239409488717544418" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGM7IOuq8R4tqg7Y1UOBWfUfWPzMOS_LKw9V7jWVHEZ8FAA0DwKfzL7kgICojS3RJVb_EC9U621upBsZNNRQkX3PgoJa9iJr3AypcfxsCBdAVcUOUqFmUOW6dqPTHNvYjPF6Qb9Q/s400/000019.JPG" style="cursor: hand; display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center;" /></div><div align="justify">After our lunch we headed out to TaeJongDae, a cliff famous for its views. On the bus ride over, we spotted a shipbuilding yard. Korea has the most advanced and successful shipbuilding business in the world, and Busan is it's capital; appropriate because it's on the South-East coast of Korea.</div><div align="justify"><br />
</div><div align="justify"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5239409097061080818" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilH7CR3YP5xvNWsr4-smQo8pVO354otMGecosLK55cd-KpKikxEd9-SPSV7_C0SXhavo54LhONKUONtnxGHeCm0ZPA0Wf6QUUn3_yCKu8dYj3m6kUhidmXT-5OB9VBEPxtQU_Gpg/s400/000017.JPG" style="cursor: hand; display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center;" /> On the way up, we spotted a tree with a "Caution" sign posted in red. I attempted to look as though I hit myself against it.</div><div align="justify"><br />
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</div><div align="justify"><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5240991431059036754" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgssIv56RNA-CBQpHd3yQyTkrmZhB_IdClLIXTLgcCkrSHzTkWXh1XvUW4uskDUHqP-mfRovHeIt-m0bKSYJOWsj1NUow7M_wNowvhdKChfqipxIiB9LU8AaCUHtEUrXYCReBdJKg/s400/000030.JPG" style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center;" /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">One perspective from the lookout at TaeJongDae</td></tr>
</tbody></table></div><div align="justify"><br />
</div><div align="justify">On our way back to the city, we stopped by a Bondeggi stand. Being a fairly curious person, I have seen this dish all over Korea and having been wanting to try it for two years. The problem is the smell! It's horrendous! Bondeggi is silkworm larvae, enjoyed by children, most particularly. I've been too chicken to eat it in the past and without any people around me to encourage. But time was running out on my stay in Korea, so I resolved to finally try it.</div><div align="justify"><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5239410055009736722" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZb-jSW8S7WY3nNZKx9ihuMoNpbr3mmv00K2W2Vn3d785gg0xb9FOwWp8yr3dMKNkYJ3B9sxstfMnE9mx75wkxDHSJZzAizGyo9gWYd3za2LIJDBLBStOTIKE03kuCDPORDA-MkA/s400/Bondeggi.JPG" style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center;" /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bondeggi in all its glory</td></tr>
</tbody></table><br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5239409483464324754" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuo0pP0mWMeUZda5DmGey-aepEajNvbXU0MJ9tL1oHIH1fOEXabEEbuWr6jOok2cgZSR-EKAX_9LlIfnjdKHK1zgomsGSXr_KrHxx-OePj6K7DsZ_uJJbtUQmuds8UugatYmHAtQ/s400/000013.JPG" style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center;" /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Here is an image of myself, after the taste had permeated my mouth.</td></tr>
</tbody></table> <br />
Intrigued? You want to see the video? Scroll down.<br />
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Beware, this image may disturb you! </div><div align="left"><br />
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</div><div align="center"><iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.blogger.com/video.g?token=AD6v5dyQq0DqTNIWQpQ1TT27PktQ8DgL1v6cOrsjhfM744bEZi4-qH7P8SfrSiQkW1tB2VoAHpG3g5z5Zz4' class='b-hbp-video b-uploaded' frameborder='0'></iframe></div><div align="justify"><br />
</div><div align="justify">After this experience, I had everyone smell it to try to assess how to describe it to you. I usually think I'm pretty good with describing things, but this time I was at a loss for words. The best I can say is it is salty and bitter. It's quite juicy and I could feel the legs as I was crunching down on the one worm I had. A foul-tasting delicacy? Who knows. I just know it wasn't for me.</div><div align="justify"><br />
</div><div align="justify">John described the smell as funky socks.</div><div align="justify"><br />
</div><div align="justify">Keith did pretty well and said it smelled like mushrooms growing in rotten wood as well as wet dog.</div><div align="justify"><br />
</div><div align="justify">MinJong, the only one who likes Bondeggi</div><div align="justify">(and incidentally ate the rest of it for me) probably hit the nail on the head with the description of cat pee.</div><div align="justify"><br />
</div><div align="justify">Try this at your own risk ladies and gentlemen!</div><div align="justify"><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5239409492956138802" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5mMHViTuwkvst1up-l2I1kaDaQWW-VGaRgb9Jl5KA2M1yeOmlVfGSDvPjLDcUG6s1SUgqKQuz8dYeDHbP6TtcMX4AKqB0_EFiH7CY74Q0eUzf1RyrjaFNZx-kP7d3QKkfompYlQ/s400/000024.JPG" style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center;" /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Whale meat food stands</td></tr>
</tbody></table></div><div align="justify">Later on that evening we headed to Jagalchi Fish Market, a gorgeous modern building full of every kind of seafood you can imagine. Out front, we spotted all of these stands selling whale meat. I hesitated, interested in what it could possibly taste like, but reason set in. I've made a promise to myself that I would not eat endangered species.</div><div align="justify"><br />
</div><div align="justify"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5239409497021591074" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgp6vdQJC2GxC2LqC-arEhIo-tMExXGOG_dxhD5jphU2zvZ5tLJUqracnmDSxQkLImoN5HdNllyVcgNN1v5jTzIi7WJbukEIalWGGNVfExRD2uZjS6JSWw2jqN-ciNiD4iBfaRb_g/s400/000028.JPG" style="cursor: hand; display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center;" /></div><div align="justify">John and I had four king prawns (the man is holding it in his arm) and they were so awesome! Grilled to perfection and dipped in a sweet and spicy sauce. Heaven!</div><div align="justify"><br />
</div><div align="justify">That night we headed off to Gwangalli beach, a place my friend Steve had recommended. The pictures didn't come out great but it was beautiful. Tons of restaurants and bars were right on the boardwalk and they had blocked off the street and put tables and chairs out. We could see the ocean from our seats. In the distance, a large bridge was lit and changed into the colors of the rainbow every few seconds. </div><div align="justify"><br />
</div><div align="justify"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5240995000885274370" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjR-_lXJhKivM2AGjVf4EnW9KiEAkuCIPonTFBHjvMTLfuwsxxOxhYAUxNKOn3pBL9rmHZvH-tBlYwSueb2SJNMPaon8-BlVWUcWVVihwy2F-oQ33iLGvyk-3eerGMzE6O9z74Gtw/s400/000030.JPG" style="cursor: hand; display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center;" /></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><div style="text-align: justify;">Unfortunately, the picture was not a success, but I hope you will go there one day. It was wonderful!</div><br />
<div style="text-align: justify;">We stayed out both nights, testing out some night clubs and bars, the guys proving to be much more the party animals than us girls, who left earlier. All in all, though, it was a great trip. Relaxing, flavorful and exciting.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><div style="text-align: justify;">Goodbye Busan! Til next time!</div>Lhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07266164231840295693noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-34194462.post-46462987571640265732008-08-10T18:05:00.035+09:002010-12-23T06:15:14.258+09:00Lotus Lantern International Meditation Center<div align="justify"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjaXYW9hxprUAUbzyRUFLecVhd9n26wXdGKAcujFx9he9aosefx40WXD15m94jH1ORaASLSUc5eMJgMJVyLQwgU2zrwHyczc3eouq_rOzmLY1sAruumA7Xg3ui8j81WtLAFFZpq9Q/s1600-h/000026.JPG"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5238699239996120258" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjaXYW9hxprUAUbzyRUFLecVhd9n26wXdGKAcujFx9he9aosefx40WXD15m94jH1ORaASLSUc5eMJgMJVyLQwgU2zrwHyczc3eouq_rOzmLY1sAruumA7Xg3ui8j81WtLAFFZpq9Q/s400/000026.JPG" style="cursor: hand; display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center;" /></a><br />
In keeping with my need to experience as much of Korea before leaving it, I decided to partake in a Templestay, an element of Korean culture that is thriving. People of all backgrounds, religions and cultures go to temples across the country and spend a weekend among monks learning about Buddhism, meditation and quietude.<br />
<div><br />
<div><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5232815922544313602" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-Vh8IhRdQuRGzWRunflK9jXhFaTwpOZvFNB9zHqBJxeUVf0Z9mnu66nNTdJFzOQxcus9yyvSRuAUuOBxjqHDqeKXYPw7EqqcFfRXXtnNk4aWg0gaeO9JAMrbPHrqT5ro7ChpTfA/s400/000025.JPG" style="cursor: hand; display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center;" /></div><br />
<div>I didn't want to go to a temple in Seoul, wanting to head out of the city for some fresh air. I didn't want to go too far either. Some temples provide English instruction so I decided to go to GangHwa Island, about 1 1/2 hours by bus outside of Seoul on the west coast.</div><br />
<div>Lotus Lantern International Meditation Center is located in the countryside, removed from the road so that no cars, horns or other unnatural sounds can be heard. I arrived a day early, on my own, wanting an extra night of rest, exhausted by my job, the grueling and unnatural schedules and the difficulties of life in general.</div><br />
<div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5232815193827546818" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg61FiJd4yXMjGe0jYQk8nV0BckxY9YyUH1iJj88lP5Hlp6PmA3DMf7nNKg1FUIusplsKZBgckPJWEigp5sBqUbstorTAfozuUFEa6BwIz0rq84pjEXtN8RrKmWe9cdPJGT4NRopw/s400/000015.JPG" style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center;" /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong>Main Temple</strong></td></tr>
</tbody></table></div><br />
<div>I was shown to my room and, there, spent the rest of the night reading and sleeping. The next day, other people arrived and there were a good 40 people ready to partake in the adventure to come. I was lucky enough to get my own room (the three adjumas who were initially supposed to share my room aware of my fatigue and letting me have the room only to bunk in the library). I felt slightly guilty, but grateful for their senstitivity. Saturday afternoon was pretty relaxed. It was a weekend of torrential rains so we didn't venture out too much. </div><br />
<div>Apart from me, the other foreigners included one British/Australian man and two American GIs from a nearby base. They were nice enough, though I hadn't gone there to meet new people. We were shown the vicinities, an old temple and fairly new buildings amongst a gorgeously manicured garden. Two small ponds housed coi fish and small green frogs and the trees were chockfull of cicadas singing their hearts out. It was just what I needed. </div><br />
<div>Our "English" speaker was a Russian monk who, with very broken English, informed us that he had come to Korea 8 years earlier to immerse himself in the world of Buddhism. He was very nervous but I had tons of questions and it was nice to get some direct answers.</div><br />
<div><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5232814684436633458" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgX99Z2EwGtlTH_OBwIoltK8xjQYy4rz_JrouxcNSaAJHpVn7wxjmLuSu43BxrsSJ7CC6wkxUxrLBWfNTBr9jgYNPimau_kmFJHT2emvUP5zpPViMCx79EQvHFJ6IxuI-u1rekohw/s400/000014.JPG" style="cursor: hand; display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center;" /></div><br />
<div>We attempted meditation that evening, a feat I have still not been able to master or even perform correctly. I can sit still, pain radiating through my back and legs, for 15 minutes, but during the process I'm just trying to get through the time hoping the gong will ring indicating the end of the meditation period. We were informed to count our breathing as that would help us clear our minds of other distractions. But I'm a multi-tasker, capable of counting, cursing the pain and thinking of other thoughts, all the while waiting for it all to end.</div><br />
<div><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5232815007089734402" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgD9vGI9zE9HFg_ZLxDAtL9iU8rwMqVaUepbcCL1yTtWpgl1MOmwETXNaK6aOUee1DHhIfO_2cFe1XCqoGYA7hudXbHQ1QHdNBkgmE5MWjca7wnVDuganv1yO2_Ih3fJCK68Vbfw/s400/000011.JPG" style="cursor: hand; display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center;" /></div><br />
<div>The closest I've ever gotten to what people describe as a meditative state was while doing tai chi. The breathing in and out, in conjunction with the complex and slow movements, enabled me to focus on just that. The only other time that I approached that experience was when I used to go to the gym in Montreal. I would run on the treadmill with music in my ears, focusing on my breathing and forgetting about anything else besides the movements of my body, the feel of my heart beating in my chest and the rhythm of my breathing. This allowed me to run without looking at the time. But that was years ago. Over the past 5 years or so, I have been unable to reach that level, though I continue to seek it.</div><br />
<div>After our meditative session, we had dinner. As you may well know, devout Buddhists are vegetarian and I was afraid that the food would be bland. I was knocked off my feet. It was absolutely delicious! Roots, vegetables and rice all prepared with the perfect ingredients to bring out flavors that exploded in my mouth. What a truly decadant surprise.</div><br />
<div><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5232814694132131090" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGTBf-5ZP-63FwjuakrvRetWdqBAdRyjbCbYaURgX9_2RM2m8ZNxTWr8R-BcfhwOx5RrVgzjB8rAggvfgIT5GKQK99U0mmAQs4HeL2xYERh2HVDADnggF37eqATkjO5j3eHRG4JQ/s400/000016.JPG" style="cursor: hand; display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center;" /></div><br />
<div>We had a free evening with lights out at 9pm. The next morning the gong rang at 3:30am heralding the morning prayer and 108 prostrations. I readied myself and headed out to the big meditation center, a log cabin stretched long with an altar at the head and statues of Buddha in different positions.</div><br />
<div>30+ people assembled, rubbing sleep from their eyes. Now, prostrations are a complicated matter. First you kneel then bend over until your head touches the mat, your hands around your head, palms facing up. You cross your feet (the dorsal of one foot placed over the other) and then you return to your kneeling position, put your hands together in prayer and propel yourself onto your feet without the help of your hands. About 5 years ago, I broke my right toe and it has hurt ever since. The pressure exerted in this action strains every little toe you have on each foot. Not the most pleasant of sensations when your feet are not in top shape. </div><br />
<div>We did about 10 of these prostrations as a morning prayer and I managed to keep up, gritting through the shots of pain in my toe. This was just the beginning! After the morning prayer, we were to do 108 prostrations, the idea being that they would help up balance "the scales of our ongoing accumulated karma". It was hell! After about twenty, my thighs were screaming. Pushing yourself up without the help of your hands is really difficult! I looked around me and noticed that a lot of Koreans were using their hands to help them up. I felt no shame in following their example. That would have been the only way I could finish up the punishing rhythm that the monks performed with incredible ease.</div><br />
<div><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5232814698457948242" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhItSudQw2JV69e6qMmgo_TG_YbYF4XrUQLfzUdH6Ayi_GdHCXpU7cijZGRrqKuUhfZ1YTpMsWiFjEIlgzx4mDMSrHxs4dTUOsTgypSwgPgftmx98AX9W8rCg8vZrZRc383dgfkMg/s400/000017.JPG" style="cursor: hand; display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center;" /></div><br />
<div>When I later spoke to my students about this experience, they gawked at me, impressed that I had done it. None of them had even attempted it and the resounding question was "what went through your head as you were doing it?" In theory, the prostrations, as repetitive actions, are known to be a meditative action, clearing your mind and body of negativity etc... They all looked at me in anticipation of my answer. I said, " I was just thinking, don't give up! Don't give up! You can do this!!!" The room exploded in laughter and everytime I got up from my chair to write something on the board, I winced with pain, the lactid acid doing a number on my legs. Giggles would erupt as they watched me and I would smile too. It was pretty darn funny.</div><br />
<div>After the prostrations, we had breakfast which was to be followed by a walk which I forced myself to do. I was not in the mood! But the sky had cleared enough for us to have a nice walk and check out some really old buildings, and structures hundreds of years old.</div><br />
<div>We were then treated to a calligraphy lesson, albeit one where we only copied words written in Chinese, Korean and English as to the precepts of Buddhism. It was still fun. Free for another little while, I asked whether I could take some pictures of the location. As you can see, they were more than happy to oblige. </div><br />
<div>We were then invited to have tea with the head monk of the temple. He was an amazing man; calm, with pretty decent English, who I was surprised to find had a really great sense of humor. I was told by the English/Australian that Buddhism was full of humor. It was nice. I asked a few hundred more questions and we were then free to roam around again until the next activity. This man had entered Buddhism after university. He had encountered a lot of death in his youth and had at that time first been drawn to the quietude and study of Buddhism. After his mandatory military service and university studies, he decided to pursue Buddhism as his calling and has been with the Jogye order for over 20 years.</div><br />
<div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5232815918887466210" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgK8io9Q6qUGB4u8BNyVnVUQC1MuAeH2fRAuM_LcCHVtZnuIssfKVTrlaSWgsC3kWJdRWvBteRyPh1hpS3kOgCL9kzs1ObN96FSGiDEWz7yvQu0pv2Yo60PeP0EalWxKAK-Iu38Ag/s400/000023.JPG" style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center;" /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong>Me and the head monk</strong></td></tr>
</tbody></table></div>Around noon, we had another prayer and several more prostrations in the original temple, had lunch and were free to go. The templestay was over. I was offered a free ride back to the city on a bus but opted for the city bus back. I had come alone, I explained to them in Korean, I needed to leave alone.<br />
<div></div><br />
<div> <br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5232815931538419586" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiETTvrBFUBRSXrVYECjkijwCjrNdsQuzNpjhD3a2zwzkx9erlQc0xwxkiiMc9P_65gWpRkpXhx_V-7lpgqk_mk8Nwo-EgQXfI7FUpJZIHgzfD_Yz4q25kSFq5jZNYCw3Bc8H-eMA/s400/000030.JPG" style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center;" /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong>Me and one of the American GIs with the temple's dog Yon Gun</strong> (Lotus Root)</td></tr>
</tbody></table></div></div></div>Lhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07266164231840295693noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-34194462.post-85627623446117262762008-06-16T10:49:00.003+09:002010-12-23T03:44:38.130+09:00A New Link<div align="justify">One of my students, David, is a fabulous photographer and has a beautiful blog. I encourage you to take a look at it when you get a chance.</div><div align="justify"></div><div align="justify"><br />
Don't be turned off by the Korean language. Just follow the pictures!</div>Lhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07266164231840295693noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-34194462.post-59954497704500683392008-06-12T09:13:00.109+09:002010-12-23T04:30:53.113+09:00Sokcho and Soraksan Hone Ja-Style (혼자 =Alone)<div align="justify"></div><div align="justify"></div><div align="justify"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyoAl724zU5eRyy5g0fTPsGInAOQ1xpH3oHKnU8nHx0RT51zsM8F4c1oaz8yEuVnh0fQ59FJQ1-8ocwICJrpoXtiv9xiWkc0TZDIt03dnyMOXFnqIWiBN4jm2Sx8bwo_X_17Dx3g/s1600-h/000010.JPG"><img alt="" border="0" height="270" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5211602474484244642" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyoAl724zU5eRyy5g0fTPsGInAOQ1xpH3oHKnU8nHx0RT51zsM8F4c1oaz8yEuVnh0fQ59FJQ1-8ocwICJrpoXtiv9xiWkc0TZDIt03dnyMOXFnqIWiBN4jm2Sx8bwo_X_17Dx3g/s400/000010.JPG" style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center;" width="400" /></a>Last weekend, I headed off to Sokcho, on the East coast of South Korea, for a beach/mountain experience. It was a journey in more ways than one.</div><div align="justify"><br />
</div><div align="justify">I had heard about amazing Soraksan, one of Korea's most famous mountains. Though I had no intention of climbing it (the trek to the top of the highest peak takes 11 hours!), I wanted to walk around and see the beauty of these craggy mountains.</div><div align="justify"><br />
</div><div align="justify"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5211603495894753586" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-4B_lz_UKI5crLOdZ9gM8kGqfIsEMjY4k7dIkWA7ulZSYztj4CA4TVz3xIkMX4P0npWwzgGOejH2ssgk4_1f2LyM4Jneek4qpKMpLBhBih1FQ6H5cJhevvNdeYkP0ZrYa6RkV_Q/s400/000020.JPG" style="cursor: hand; display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center;" /></div><div align="justify"><br />
</div><div align="justify">So I set off on Thursday night, after work, and arrived in Sokcho at 3am. I immediately located Samsung Motel (a fairytale, castle-like building) sticking out like one of two sore thumbs</div><div align="justify">(there's another castle motel closeby), and secured a room into which I collapsed. I didn't sleep well, though the room was clean and comfortable.</div><div align="justify"><br />
</div><div align="justify"><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5211601575695498962" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLznLyyhoBRXV3OL7BB-N4QVwEP4eZoJUWE-dCF8kinTyROyglSdUrNl_HlE6pFNhWcG0qpKLAG4qrnw5vuC94Twfr284APdS5h-zCG34DSz7WjHEadkL2Uyjlrkay9P_WX29Qqw/s400/000030.JPG" style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center;" /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong>Samsung Motel</strong></td></tr>
</tbody></table></div><div align="justify">The next day, exhausted from my restless sleep, I stayed in bed for a while before forcing myself to take a shower and head out to the beach. It was a hazy but warm day and as I walked down the boardwalk towards the beach, I couldn't help but remember a similar walk, in 2005, when I was in Gold Coast on a free afternoon from my business trip.</div><div align="justify"><br />
</div><div align="justify"><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5211638368924198178" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1jcJsfIuDCyl6wxzX5sSfP0mnxsstqRjf3_3ynpc5vWoRvuwUjSDv5xzYkhL0eZYGRUgrPtCYMVxRsjqQMAQqHNEfyB3KE0RdkaiY7G4XNtibUw6A8W-RWgIqEeE_VL5NRzn5dw/s400/000010.JPG" style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center;" /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong>Sokcho boardwalk</strong></td></tr>
</tbody></table></div><div align="justify"><strong></strong></div><div align="justify">There weren't too many people around, which was restful and the ocean was quite nice. Nothing can compare with Caribbean waters, but this is the East Sea; it's a whole different ballgame. The smell of the salty air was refreshing and after looking around at the people and the sea, I settled down with my back against a low wall, in the sand, and read for several hours. The sand was quite coarse and chunky, as though it were a new beach. It was nice, though, like little crystals shining beneath your feet.<br />
<br />
</div><div align="justify"></div><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5211638664355042066" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdM_KTVRXNsBcvXpZopotzr-SHA0pJ8pERWu2UKK5yWfCH31Kv4DQflDnwIjufu65Dlet-Ntt_2NaVRH-1f2USPNIYsIAnCFQFAbAj8_ZfrEwhy5UdcU5v2Tr-ATwemK4wwWd5xA/s400/000019.JPG" style="cursor: hand; display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center;" /><br />
The water was a multicolored jewel. At times, bluemarine (where the seaweed floats below the surface), at times dark turquoise.<br />
<br />
<br />
<img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5211639054873962850" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEieiLBR8HFWRxGpcOdIRCsjzHj416pdRCDqhdZx0mmP8H-nJays7N_TqkE9FWoLGoUMLoRY2smTjBjBWDkHbYOKlkogX614I1kfD3Y3LlVhrNJz9rcHalbUQzMxI4qnvzK8lQyTaw/s400/000016.JPG" style="cursor: hand; display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center;" /> <br />
<div align="justify"><br />
It was a very relaxing afternoon.<br />
<br />
After a while I figured it was time to do some more exploring. I decided to walk from Sokcho beach to Daepo Port. I didn't know how long it would take, but I was up for the challenge and headed off. It took about 30 minutes. When I arrived...it was a whole other world.</div><div align="justify"><br />
</div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5211639572208495410" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhov6916KxJKV3_9Uq2WD_Ai473FRYQGIApQUpep8pxcZOoYle-uFlMsBFfwqFQfTsLZYMgW1vJSm2INDe6TJGf9Lj1x9MeTB4-CH7cWPrv8JgsHdZ2r6YjdqOpc96kkLdOAZPR1g/s400/000033.JPG" style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center;" /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong>Daepo Port</strong></td></tr>
</tbody></table><br />
<strong></strong><br />
<div align="justify">Noise, color, the smell of grilled seafood, everything was alive and I was instantly charmed. As I walked along the tiny street, I was assailed by the sights of dried, fresh and cooking fish. People were sitting down at street-side tables waiting for their food to cook as they drank their soju. Fish swam around in tanks along the asphalted ground.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5211640560726091042" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYq0nz4_Yb0_OfNpG96m-9s630boAXwoUorIS-KJEwLCfOMKykSKSnyETTGY18vrPzkm_eOd2HCzuIzJPayFCktDLIMr17KgqGJlY4EMen1NUhrtdXBX0W-dmV33Q8HIFxsoVXJQ/s400/000042.JPG" style="cursor: hand; display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center;" />Small boats had been converted into restaurants where people sat eating raw fish. I walked to the end of the road where the batter-fried shrimp was kept. I wanted to try everything. I wanted the raw fish, and the battered shrimp, I wanted grilled shrimp and grilled shellfish. How could I have them all? Impossible. I walked back along the road, looking for a boat restaurant that served grilled shrimp. None of them did. They only had fish and one woman directed me towards the open tables on the road. I settled myself down at one and ordered a 5,000won plate of shrimp. There were 8 shrimp. The woman serving me separated the heads and then told me to eat the heads too. I wasn't sure how to do that, but tried it anyway. I sucked out the juices from the head. Delicious! Nothing beats freshly grilled shrimp!<br />
<br />
</div><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5211640531651692450" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8Tdh8JlCe3BoU6ifPd98YRKqSKlh1c415hKsCGoZtJatjU_k4YpBxlLKBrNzA0Z9wLZNJq06JbBzqMq__p4JVat1cZ-Jt0yOZRU0UFmc9CRMm-7AiOdTtfv0-sR_5PbCr2tBGcQ/s400/000035.JPG" style="cursor: hand; display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center;" /><br />
<div align="justify"><br />
I also went for an order of grilled shellfish, 10,000won. A little cocktail of onions, shallots and sweet/hot sauce were added to some of the bigger shells and I was in heaven.<br />
<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5211640543874306578" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg95yBb0QMU__OoJMlv_DJfE4mAwpgQ1RhFub6IzPVLL_KAQrfN3mkWCs60Jlmw421zTy7JQo8pkWYicL0upi1p9nmIlmWMuZEfjb7iHI9vPzFT5oxKKoUZecg2VRq7XwNLdMJWKA/s400/000037.JPG" style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center;" /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong>Jo Gae Gu Ee- grilled shellfish</strong></td></tr>
</tbody></table></div><div align="justify"><div align="justify"><strong></strong></div><div align="justify"></div><div align="justify"></div>In the meantime, I had ordered a bottle of soju and some coke. I'm not a shotter, I prefer to sip my alcohol, so I made a mixed drink; pretty good, all things considered. Like a rum and coke. I sat there for at least an hour: eating, drinking, reading and smoking. It was a wonderful time. Koreans looked at me with curiosity. What was I doing there alone? Kids gawked at the foreigner, but I just smiled and enjoyed my meal. I still had a little space left inside me and so decided to try a local delicacy: squid soondae 4,000won. I've since come to the conclusion that the word soondae doesn't actually mean blood sausage. I think it actually refers to the encasing of food in some kind of tube-like product. For regular soondae, this means a pig's intestines. In that case, the intestines are stuffed with glass noodles, onions and other delicious spices and vegetables. Not at all like the French blood sausage. There is actually no blood to speak of.</div><div align="justify"><br />
With squid soondae, the same ingredients are used, but instead of using the pig's intestines as an encasing agent, they use squid. It's ingenious! And absolutely delicious! They fry it and serve it to you steaming.<br />
<br />
</div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5211640552076268930" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2-fbXVNtFBoxoIu9G0voFLTyc_X10lZ1Y7mL5F8r98SyVVvZre-jI23vKSS8Ro-T7pbrFiszxy8uy1SMCqf4lCHbPk6zmmH0h37wH8im92mKR8eAt5SrIYGG2YCkSJ6JpO-7KKQ/s400/000038.JPG" style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center;" /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong>Squid Soondae</strong></td></tr>
</tbody></table><strong></strong><br />
<div align="justify">Unfortunately I couldn't finish it all; I had already stuffed myself to the brink. By that time, I had gone through a whole bottle of soju and two cokes. I was rightfully tipsy and in my inebriated state, I decided to walk back to the hotel along a different route, so that I would see more. As you know, with alcohol in your system, you tend to relax and feel less stressed about your surroundings. I felt more comfortable asking people if I could take pictures of them working. They were all very gracious. I got some good shots. I walked up to a shrimp stand. There were two women there, frying up loads of shrimp. They looked like a mother and daughter team. I asked the older woman if I could take a picture. "Take it! Take it!" she said and went about her business. Her daughter laughed and I did too as I took the picture, thanked them and walked away.<br />
<br />
</div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5211637150577057906" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFN9hj-VSgp8aamLZVlVLfzzKT6IEkwxynfy2E4_sKUHgkHXriUqJ_ilyAdww_BhBBB9n9SbVzqM52GA2mFgm0cylM4UODATXGt6t2HGY1eNWbo_kbsPx2C3BRQeHMOvTergihPQ/s400/000009.JPG" style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center;" /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong>Fried Shrimp</strong><strong></strong></td></tr>
</tbody></table><br />
I took the main boulevard back to downtown Sokcho, but after what seems like a long while, I wasn't sure I was heading in the right direction. There was a police officer at an intersection, guiding the traffic. As he took a break, I asked him, in what I think was pretty good Korean, where the bus station was. He tried to answer me in English. We both laughed. It was an adorable scene: here is the foreigner, speaking in Korean and the Korean speaking in English. We were both trying hard. I thanked him and walked on. My instincts had been right. I found my way back and ended my first day in a happy, dazed state. <br />
<div align="justify"><br />
</div><div align="justify">The next day, I had planned to go to Soraksan early in the morning. I didn't know how long it would take to do the things I wanted to do, but as per usual, I lingered in bed and had to remind myself not to feel guilty for staying in bed on my holiday. It's a constant struggle between my body and my mind.</div><div align="justify"><br />
</div><div align="justify">I finally arrived in Sorak-dong around 12pm and decided to have lunch there before heading back on the bus to the entrance of Sorak National Park. I ordered some kind of Hae Jang Guk, expecting what I had had in Seoul in the past. Hae Jang Guk is usually made with the backbone of the beef and seasoned with sesame and other vegetables. It's a hearty, meaty meal: delicious. I was expecting the same here, but instead I received a seafood version in a clear broth. I was quite confused. The main ingredient was actually cod and it wasn't bad, but not as delicious as the original Hae Jang Guk.<br />
<br />
</div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5211637476789598418" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiekKdoBnRx-Vi8pNBqdXXTgjPtmNHjoAdNsTgpiRBCmISf1JEY4JfsD2W9fWaHYRoBX4r-Zsch-3YIr8a0JfnPGomuOR-ETRon4KESFsBVk57YsIYeFKEbKxv8Ty67w0G3byL-6g/s400/000014.JPG" style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center;" /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong>Seafood Hae Jang Guk</strong></td></tr>
</tbody></table>After lunch I took the bus to the entrance of Soraksan National Park. I could see the peaks rising up in the sky, reaching for the clouds. There was green everywhere, the forests healthy, promising a great day ahead.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5211637973685688818" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwchpOU_OIRMUAcjYgL1uYnVl_0-YINJ_SI6H9DPF1LgWe0A272k-OOM9ES3tYf6Vh8zNR5u1dAji4AKGrofk7XEHXZPVOrfusOf22lLx9_2AX3-n1GZ8UCz88-uYGYt84OwE7oQ/s400/000027.JPG" style="cursor: hand; display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center;" /><br />
<div align="justify">I wanted to go see the waterfalls. I had heard that there were two of them and that the walk, in total would take about 1 1/2 hours. Okay, I could handle that! It was actually a really easy walk. The path was well indicated and easy to follow, but regardless, I would not suggest people wear anything but tennis shoes to go there. There were women in heeled sandals! I mean, are you serious!!! I couldn't believe it. We had to walk in puddles of mud at times, at other times, manoeuver around rocks and over bridges made of planked wood. These women were stepping daintily, one hand held by their significant others for balance, as they tried to pick their way through. It was pretty ridiculous, but I guess there will always be women in this world who think appearance is more important than comfort. What can you do? :)</div><br />
<div style="text-align: justify;">By the time I reached Biryeong Falls, I was covered in a light sheen of sweat. There were several people there already, dipping into the water. I decided to dip my feet in myself and do a little writing. I was not prepared for the insanely cold water! Oh my God! How in the world were the other people able to be in there waist deep?! It's crazy. I had to laugh out loud. I could barely put my toes in!</div><br />
<img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5211624753675759138" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_kL-J0YZn10WE0LLqdRHF0V1w17KUP9A4acu9rfZ2H99akI3Z9fxVcheUrV9NfZFk2R2s_iI79nbUTzfgemzERpSQNu8Tm1eViC9d6pqiScFoFXaYvwKRjWNvvOJ5pnKPBZlDDQ/s400/000009.JPG" style="cursor: hand; display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center;" /> <br />
<div align="justify">The waterfalls were nice, but I was a bit underwhelmed. I had had the impression that they were going to be more impressive. No big deal, it was still a nice walk through the forest and the trees were beautiful. It was quite peaceful, unlike hiking up Halla mountain last year, when there were often human traffic jams up the mountain and the exhaustion threatened to stop you ever 100 meters or so.</div><div align="justify"> <br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5211626491137269122" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgaCq9IWJgXbiAabJ8VhMDFZ7PBOWo5Oo3vfdK6brhwugcT789RgD6GGqhbkyQWhQkTYo54vIS1e19z_f-FChzaNjobF1Pm5eGVlo8NuWzNs44ff05gepTZHHggQETcevXdIlwm0A/s400/000015.JPG" style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center;" /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong>Guess how the water was able to stay up!</strong></td></tr>
</tbody></table> Afterwards, I headed for the famous cable-car. I didn't expect there to be a waiting line. Me and my naive ways...It was 3pm and the earliest time to take the cable car up the mountain was 4:10. I had to find other things to do with my time so I wandered around, looking for something to drink and a quiet spot to sit down and relax. </div><div align="justify"><strong></strong></div><div align="justify"><strong></strong></div><div align="justify"><strong></strong></div><div align="justify">I noticed a man who was obviously some kind of artist, drawing onto small pieces of wood or seeds from trees. He used a type of electrical gadget to actual burn images onto the wood. It was beautiful!<br />
<br />
</div><div align="justify"></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5211626475757221698" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNt66vSx99011HjVtmmF0eZk73YA5_OUv5YVuB3BWi6uo-zS7xz784kmPxTJH0oyn7lcTBEbJLKnhkUc8wKMLqCXWNjuiweE4hgbIDzqniSVNX5n2uM5CAagfxaa8vwKJJ6GOKTw/s400/000018.JPG" style="cursor: hand; display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center;" />Though I would have liked to have posed for a portrait, it would have been too expensive and too much of a burden to transport so I opted instead for a few small phone accessories to give out as gifts. He did an excellent job.</div><br />
<img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5211627010712512546" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQKTO4CGZjdERYIZjgOBYZghQlCduLWkYHAUS1_Lz9BAHhc2ek2uybhKbqQkQkqZ16fjsJR1t8GQdvzJX5hNl9_wmeNIODgGK2To0RjdBFN8kzJGM_de8ASN_szLItECupvS-kLA/s400/000017.JPG" style="cursor: hand; display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center;" /><br />
<div align="justify">Eventually it was time to board the cable car. I had taken a cable car last year in Seoul, on my way down Namsan Tower on the night of Solal. It had provided us with a beautiful view of the city line. It was fun last year as it was, too, last weekend. You feel like you're floating above the earth and everything is spread out for you to admire. We live on such a wonderful earth and we too often forget to appreciate it.<br />
<br />
</div><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5211636762082966418" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiM8xckoolFDKVz0yBhiRj1hMDkdmK5-wiAIbjORSD-JWLmFqwauGOny64Yvkhtfvw42W8ZnF0EW8OlRJqEHv_JIJPGfxwM4q0qtaj0jOppKzCoU_SOyB0t4BiNXQGioZc1hgsIeQ/s400/000020.JPG" style="cursor: hand; display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center;" /><br />
<div align="justify"><br />
I followed a path up to the peak of the mountain where there is a legend of two kings who built a fortress in one night atop this peak to guard against his enemies. Another story indicates that it was built in 1253 to defend against Mongolian invasion. Regardless of the story, I saw no indication of a fortress or any ruins there. So, with reason, I was quite confused. Nonetheless, the view was spectacular.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5211634189906402162" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-QJZwA2W0V1pVZ4NdDmmbSr7IJFwNuq-LMTcc1QfIJJkgGiXAafJ2Mgl0H8wDTsjkTwT3jt_g26BvhtW2mi144E4UV82OPdv8hMTrse_J3EkgmDlPUbjymwBAjptHcPdhczLcpw/s400/000007.JPG" style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center;" /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong>I scrambled up to the top of this peak for a spectacular view</strong></td></tr>
</tbody></table><br />
Unfortunately, it was another hazy day and the pictures were not as clear as I would have liked them to have been. Having noticed that I hadn't any pictures of myself, I asked a foreign couple to take a couple. They were quite nice about it. I always feel awkward asking Koreans because most of the time, they don't seem to want to talk to me. Unlike in Australia or France, here people don't offer to take pictures of people. As a result, I feel discouraged from asking. Perhaps these are just my perceptions...<br />
<br />
</div><div align="justify"></div><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5211633829890520610" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtGwvUhAVkv8wwKtfH1dHbNLHlnOKK3ZS0XDhTdWbWa-rKZEqbPrUaW_0ual75wgAOsdIHnpTXdA7arNotzHZ-yDhqzTYznNSCtBIpw_j3zKIIrNncHZJfWVxKjmdZc5_g9Y30Iw/s400/000013.JPG" style="cursor: hand; display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center;" /> <br />
<div align="justify"><br />
Earlier, when I had taken the cable car up the mountain, I spotted a gigantic seated Buddha on the ground beyond the forest. I decided to head there before returning to Sokcho. And what a masterpiece it is! What graceful lines, what a peaceful face. I think I could have stayed there, watching it for hours had I not been quite as tired.<br />
<br />
</div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5211634701642951490" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxSfeKbtMHQ9JRfinb8UWzsW5PkUj6WmHBVab-ejva4dLDUhEs_y8WsUrfXzcb119OOsMPLcQIn4HxVQzaDezJUJ9RaldKDwNx2h75L59ZlpX2jSZZeij6ep5x-ul9x72Y9ezN2g/s400/000024.JPG" style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center;" /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong>Seated Buddha</strong></td></tr>
</tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5211635300827869730" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFXaphl6CIU5XrYw8-WoV_E3aomBvhY3KvfHcNITbqZmZE-mE87U9xbZi7XrVL54JmQPhsx6m7gX0LBuF2mOXsVQUH3SWMd_vFl7-TJDpFPAbO1svvJTY4J7yAIwpkgQ5HJG5qng/s400/000028.JPG" style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center;" /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong>Beautiful drinking fountain</strong></td></tr>
</tbody></table><strong></strong><br />
<div align="justify">I returned to Sokcho and my castle home where I relaxed for a few hours before deciding to have dinner at the Dong Myeong Fish Market. I wanted to eat raw fish but didn't want to return to Daepo. Though I loved Daepo, I wanted a new experience.<br />
<br />
The owners of the motel were very helpful and suggested I take a taxi. I must say that the taxi drivers there were really nice people. We had a broken conversation during our 10 minute ride to the port. Was I here alone? Why was I here alone? I explained that I liked to travel alone and that my friends were busy, anyhow. I asked him if he thought that was strange. I knew he did, but I was curious to see how he would answer. "No!" He gave me a thumbs up. I guess he was trying to be encouraging. It was sweet of him.<br />
<br />
</div><div align="justify">As I walked towards the fish market I saw a group of fishermen working with the nets they had brought in for the night, wriggling with silver fish. I mustered up the courage to ask whether I could take pictures and was rewarded with a nod and a smile. <br />
<br />
</div><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5211627341871503042" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNVublApJmamDXKh3giE-eXAzFwVipzwHykXaOqfarnPiLCKm7oDPplXCnwd4SpjFhmlE7DACQzqA0t8YUWhB62IRp4OUlFnuLJy4t4Wbjexni33iy5W-_-VCdZeP6ph8xy_8CGQ/s400/000007.JPG" style="cursor: hand; display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center;" /> <img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5211627821591142594" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJTJBPDHhcl98uKDDjx8X__pI23MCxfXYhOi-tf5SqESnBh83UFlyLE8Lefm4_Ym6qwrga0B4LPkZFRYOUX0WaoXOPjIL_C4ZnsKJCe6U0AF-3nXpLfo_OGhouFV-q8sSp1p9VjA/s400/000010.JPG" style="cursor: hand; display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center;" /><br />
<div align="justify"><br />
Next, I headed over to the main building; it was teaming with tanks of fish, shellfish, squid etc...I walked through, wondering how to go about ordering something for myself. I finally found a woman who looked me in the eye and so told her that I wanted to order some fish. You're alone, she asked. I nodded. She put a couple of fish, a couple of squid and this strange looking bright red and orange ball into a basket. She ushered me inside the building where she handed over the seafood to the women who prepared the food. I paid her 10,000won and watched the women cut, gut and skin my food. It was fascinating. As they they talked in low, serious voices their hands worked with incredible speed and precision, something they could have done with their eyes closed. There was a hardened element to them. I could only imagine being holed up in these little cubicles day after day, gutting fish and returning home with the smells of the ocean clinging to every pore of your skin.<br />
<br />
</div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5211628139433627746" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGdrbHxCg-AnXTLuzB089liPOBmZJAxEVhbIGTQ1PRU3cJvRXneWZsT3KEIW83tTOmK6yVw1YKSPJL_Ma5da87UENfdpxeuvGAsPtAk5BmoKZ4JAKExDsffG5fxPfsf6SNLwgWqg/s400/000012.JPG" style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center;" /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong>My dinner in progress</strong></td></tr>
</tbody></table><br />
<div align="justify">The squid they cut by hand, but the fish was passed through a contraption that was like a paper shredder. It was quite interesting. I realized afterward that the fish hadn't been deboned. To my surprise I had to pay these women too. 1,000 won for the lettuce and sauce and 4,000won for the gut and cut.<br />
<br />
</div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5211628520108623010" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiogzb9S6pfeeTTto5AMiRPjOLC3af9SpO806WZA205oX1CYMw9UGwjuqBRuSLalJFW-g22JlAx76_EmzOZi0isj1UhOHIYrIuu6Ey2Pu8KrqzdNMiWDn7zqnDU3l9umVYxW-dzGQ/s400/000016.JPG" style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center;" /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong>My prepared meal</strong></td></tr>
</tbody></table><div align="justify"><br />
I paid and went up to the second floor. There was a restaurant there that served Mae Une Tang, a spicy fishbone soup. Out on the balcony were some tables with an excellent view of the harbour and multicolored lights skipping along the water.<br />
<img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5211632792134123186" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnx5dr-F-ZV9gNVb46FYYu0hDY1mPtTvEnN2lA9btnBYg8j3IcRxnVBfRwgUWCYQKRVYHd-PwHgZDAVyQDU6KxuyQHEHfGH6r9TgHurjOzzFRJyVKi5Wos25UYwgnyR-oU0Jf_sw/s400/000011.JPG" style="cursor: hand; display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center;" /><br />
<br />
This was where I wanted to sit and I was lucky enough to find a table for myself. I settled down, ordered some soju and coke and proceeded to eat my meal. It was quite good, especially the raw squid, but I didn't care for the orange/red thing. It tasted only of the ocean, very strong salt and not much else. I think the raw fish would have been excellent if it hadn't been for the bones. Granted, the bones were so small you just crunched through them, but the fact that I had to crunch raw fish bones was quite bothersome. I ate it anyway. Korean raw fish is eaten in the following way: you take a leaf of lettuce and put some sweet chili sauce on the leaf. You then add the seafood of your choice, wrap the leaf up in a little ball and then pop it in your mouth. It's such a simple combination of things, but surprisingly good. Korean cuisine is fabulous. I don't understand why it hasn't taken over the world with its wonderful flavors.<br />
<br />
</div><div align="justify">Before arriving in Korea, I had eaten at two "Korean" restaurants. One in Montreal (Canada), and one in Strasbourg (France). Though they were both good, none of them represented Korean cuisine for what it is. They had adjusted it so much to western sensibilities that they had bastardized it beyond recognition. I believe that if a real Korean-style restaurant was opened in Montreal, it would be an incredible success. I have seen no other cuisine where you can cook your own food - actually participate in creating your meal. It is such a rewarding experience and I really think westerners would love to have such a unique experience. Maybe I should open a Korean restaurant....hmmm. The only problem is that I'm an ideas person. I would need a detail person to work out all the rest (business terms I used in my Level 3 class this week. Forgive me, work always creeps its way in).</div><br />
<div align="justify">Back to the subject at hand. I was having a great time. Granted, I was stared at, but I had gotten use to it. I had a moment where I felt like the moment would have been perfect had Seung Ah and Jong In been there with me. I think we would have spent the whole night laughing at the beauty of where we were and what we were doing, but alone was good too. I decided to have the Mae Une Tang. I had seen a sign that said it cost 3,000won per person and I was pysched. I ordered one and emphasized that I was alone and that I wanted one. The young man nodded and came back 5 minutes later with the soup which you are to cook on an individual burner on your table. He told me that I owed him 6,000won. What?! Why? I had asked for one soup. He saw that I was alone and I had emphasized that fact in case he hadn't noticed. He told me that they only sold the soup for a minimum of two people.<br />
<br />
</div><div align="justify">The sign had said for one person, he had heard me say for one person. Why hadn't he explained that to me? I felt...completely drained. I was really upset. Though I love many things about Korea and I'm truly happy to have come here, this is one aspect of Korean culture I will not miss when I leave. No one does anything alone here. If you are alone, you are relegated to either eating at home, or eating at fastfood Korean restaurants. It is as though you don't deserve to eat at regular restaurants. You are punished for being alone in Korea. It is unnatural and therefore not indulged. You are the strange outsider, you shouldn't treat yourself.<br />
<br />
The nice little bubble I had been in, burst and I felt utterly deflated.<br />
<br />
</div><div align="justify">All I wanted to do at that point was leave. I ate as much of the soup as I could, knowing I would never be able to finish it and then headed back to the hotel. As the cab driver had said, "You're alone? Why?" Why indeed.<br />
<br />
</div><div align="justify">The next day was Sunday and I would be leaving at 2:30p.m. I had read that the original Soondubu (soft tofu soup) came from Sokcho so I wanted to try it out. I had had Soondubu in Jeonju last year and it was really good so I was expecting something even greater since this was the home of Soondubu. I found a cab and asked how far it was. I had only managed to leave the motel at 11:30am so I didn't want to go somewhere too far. It would take only 15minutes and about 8,000won. </div><div align="justify"><br />
</div><div align="justify">We headed out there. We were both silent, I guess language was a barrier. When we arrived at a restaurant, I realized that we were quite far away from the city and that it would be difficult to find a taxi back to the city. I asked him about that and he told me that when I finished eating he would come back to pick me up. I was very grateful for his generosity. He gave his cellphone number to the restaurant and they helped me inside. "Are you alone?" they asked. I smiled, "Yes, I'm alone."<br />
<br />
</div><div align="justify">I settled down at a large table that could fit 15 people and they brought out the side dishes and the Soondubu. I was really surprised. Where was the soup I had expected? I asked them whether this was the Soondubu. I pointed to a bowl of what looked like cottage cheese. They assured me this was the real thing. There was a little bowl of sauce on the side that I was to add into it for flavor. So I ate it. I was to realize later, from my students, that what I had had in Jeonju was Soondubu stew, whereas what I had in Sokcho was the original Soondubu, pure soft tofu. It was okay. Nothing special.<br />
<br />
</div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5211633089270927506" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5kdz6rz45mkE769eMfSXdfrdl0dfbfExe8zjdYuE1TRSu2pSq0WPgA223Ti1GEYmbN1mg7ZpTu2Bo599tYiIKX3zkI8-wRv8zRlBxsNLM-czMUgq1K1bDTKcruc8CcgHTdR1hNA/s400/000023.JPG" style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center;" /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong>Original Soondubu</strong> </td></tr>
</tbody></table><div align="justify">As I think back now, I had two surprises over the weekend with food. Things I thought I knew, I realized I didn't know at all. There are so many variations of food and names in Korea. There is just so much to Korean cuisine. You never run out of choices. I think back to Bangladesh and the curry we had daily, as well as the Dhal. It rarely varied. I don't think Bangla cuisine is very varied. I lived there for almost three months and most of the food had the same taste. They might have used different fish or different meat, but the spices were always the same and therefore the food always tasted the same. Korean food is so incredibly diverse that even after almost 2 years here, I'm still discovering new things. Granted, I'm not in love with everything, but the majority of what I have eaten I love. I will truly miss this food when I leave.<br />
<br />
</div><div align="justify">After lunch the taxi driver returned to pick me up. I fully intended for him to charge me double for coming to pick me up and driving me off. He asked me what I thought about my lunch. I tried to explain to him that it was okay, but different from what I expected. I'm not sure he understood. Opening up, he asked me if I was alone.<br />
<br />
</div><div align="justify">"Yes, I'm alone."<br />
<br />
</div><div align="justify">"Do you not have friends?" he asked with characteristic bluntness that Koreans can have at times. I'm used to it by now.<br />
<br />
"I do have friends, but they couldn't come. They had to work." I didn't bother explaining that I wanted to come alone. I don't think he would have understood.<br />
<br />
"Are you married?"<br />
<br />
"No."<br />
<br />
"How old are you?" </div><div align="justify"><br />
"29."</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br />
"Do you have a boyfriend?"<br />
<br />
"No."<br />
<br />
"Why not? You're pretty."<br />
<br />
"I had a boyfriend, but not anymore. I was going to come here with him, but..." I joined my hands and then separated them to indicate we had broken up. <br />
<br />
"I love him," I added, "but he doesn't love me."<br />
<br />
"Why?"<br />
<br />
"I don't know," I said and gave him a half smile. He had been looking at me from the rearview mirror. And to my horror, tears began to well up in my eyes and my chin began to tremble. I bit down hard to try to stop the movement and thanked God for having my sunglasses on. Perhaps he hadn't seen.<br />
<br />
"Well, you will find another boyfriend." He had decided.<br />
<br />
"Right now, I don't want one. My heart hurts."<br />
<br />
He nodded and rephrased "It hurts" he put his hand on his heart, "doesn't it? It's hard."<br />
<br />
I couldn't speak, overcome by emotion in front of this empathic stranger. As the tears slipped down my cheeks, I nodded.<br />
<br />
We had arrived at the bus station, but it was only 1:30. He asked me what I wanted to do. I suggested he drop me off at the beach. He nodded and took me there. When he stopped, he indicated that I was to pay only 7,500won. I was touched. He had only charged me for a one-way trip. I gave him a 10,000won bill and asked him to keep it for helping me out. He thanked me and held out his hand. I took it in mine and we shook. I thanked him and walked out.<br />
<br />
I went over to the same bench I had sat on earlier that morning before taking the cab to lunch and looked out on the ocean, my tears mixing with the wind. It would soon be time for me to return to my real life.</div>Lhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07266164231840295693noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-34194462.post-60654043821773558832008-05-14T10:46:00.117+09:002010-12-23T04:58:31.823+09:00A Trip to Andong with the Boys<div align="justify"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5200081748676516994" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkAOZg0x73P8cS4SQp2F8Pa7c_ZtnY-Nbe0idA36yuSYsBhRjbZw9Ce3EM3xqNKBw3-PbrBd8577pYPzLxBEhK0NAS0gFAY7b41hRQkklDz93IHhYdBlhYutsclH2j_Kh6SIeUPQ/s400/Doorway+to+Village+Home.JPG" style="cursor: hand; display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center;" /><br />
<br />
Last weekend I went to Andong, capital of Jim Tak (a spicy steamed chicken dish), soju and traditional mask dancing. I was going to go alone as I had to Gyeongju, but when I mentioned my plans to my level 4 class last month, three of the students in my class wanted to go along with me. One of them couldn't go because he has a girlfriend and she wouldn't have approved (people are pretty conservative here), but the other two are single and were eager to go along with me. I hesitated at first because I didn't know how it would go, if things would be awkward and whether I would be good company since I haven't been the peppiest these past few months, but it turned out to be an amazing trip!<br />
<br />
<img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5200080674934692898" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_xDN4Kt1Ann-PNZE0TV-hwFX0_t5EvCyQGLlM6ht7mmZXzPgooCyTAxOqyLE0Dm9JM3O-HpwP2q2xcpf0WvgEN16BqWjQ4WImz2Rick5-sFkNALOsiytU-jooj6biKBsMO098AA/s400/A+Peaceful+Scene.JPG" style="cursor: hand; display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center;" /><br />
<br />
Neo offered to take us in his car and so met me and Peter in front of YBM at 9am on Saturday morning. It was my idea to go on Saturday morning and we paid for my mistake very dearly. The trip is normally about 3 hours long, but because of the atrocious traffic, it took us about 7 1/2 hours! It was crazy! We still had fun and they made incredible efforts to speak in English. They did quite well and I really appreciated their efforts. We chatted along the way, stopping at reststops along the way to go to the bathroom and have a bite to eat (fried potatoes, tobboki, semi-dried squid and odeng).<br />
<br />
One thing I've been wanting to mention about Korean restrooms is the fact that in womens' bathrooms you can often find what they call a privacy bell. It's a little machine on the door of each stall that you press if you don't want anyone to hear you pee or poop. Sometimes, the bell sounds like the toilet flushing, sometimes it's music, but either way it's an opportunity for women to be modest. It's quite cute actually!<br />
<br />
<br />
<img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5200087203284983266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjntBjnDmxTGeMW9zGlhSfXMzI-A5WuQ2q4dG5sNOAJ4noraXiJ-cBAhHcfrWiLjsbntk7oReAGzFWTAaKGiokYtgI8BN0sdCSylfVFqgg7YzziKdzzYD4fLG9NDgLmQUcb5YnJ-w/s400/Women+Ring+this+Bell+in+the+Bathroom+to+Keep+People+from+Hearing+Them%3B+At+a+Rest-stop+Bathroom.JPG" style="cursor: hand; display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center;" /><br />
<br />
We agreed along the way to go to the Soju museum. We were pressed for time, however and didn't know whether we would get to Andong in time to visit the museum. We called ahead and found out that it was closing 30 minutes later than indicated in Lonely Planet. The last hour on the road was traffic-free, so Neo sped along and we managed to get to the museum 15 minutes before closing time. The museum is also a food museum and demonstrated traditional dishes that were and are still eaten for special occasions. There wasn't all that much to see, but we were able to see how the distillation process was done. Soju is a vodka-like alcohol made from potatoes or sweet potatoes. The percentage of alcohol ranges from 20% to 40%. The distillation process was brought over from Persia and Arabia and on through China before reaching the Korean peninsula.<br />
<br />
<br />
<img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5200086863982566866" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpuAt7UAETvSFxCTBaoBWfu1Sj5aK-vHJEEqJ_mT2QYqKbpia5ps3gVg0t60KKeEMOH14MICHWXMteUcPDT-Li1ZasN3PzTy7gvQmQRuJXA5oUtPLHECOG9rLHZZD8qI4Cir1QHQ/s400/Traditional+Distillation+Process+for+Soju.JPG" style="cursor: hand; display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center;" /><br />
<br />
<div>Andong soju is very popular in Korea and is the strongest local alcohol. The museum allows us to do a tasting and the woman there kept the museum open later just for us. She was very helpful and friendly and gave us tips on where to stay for the night. The soju was strong and not too bad. I guess I've gotten used to the taste. Soju is definitely an acquired taste and is the drink that is most consumed in Korea. Not my favorite, though. Andong soju has a more earthy taste than other sojus and you could almost taste the ground. I guess it's because of the distillation process. In 1989, they stopped using the old distillation process and updated it, but Neo thought that was a bad idea because that's a selling point for Andong soju, the traditional process. Anyway, I think they are still doing well and Andong soju definitely still attracts its fair share of customers.<br />
<br />
<div></div><div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5200085712931331458" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0nFAh8UOLQLpDnyjNUQh4OIGFJjWHqH85MgKuXMcscK7-YQNxUXkcJLyXazcUgQHtOE7tRKS3t8XPlGuvjSk3E30I-pnse95VUcdpzTzT1UzcnYemimUv6D9C4vmf-JvtttjYgg/s400/Tasting+Andong+Soju.JPG" style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center;" /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Neo, me and Peter trying Andong soju</td></tr>
</tbody></table></div><div></div><br />
After the Soju museum we went to find a motel. The business section of the city is full of love motels, places where people go to have affairs for a few hours. Most of the motels didn't want us because we would be staying a full night and I guess it wouldn't have provided them with enough cashflow. We finally did find a place and it was the coolest thing ever! I've never actually seen a round bed before, not in real life, but they had one in the rooms! It was so funny. What a cheesy yet luxurious place; and for only 40,000won!<br />
<br />
<br />
<img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5200083964879641874" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhaxHJdFMmQYqaL_D1ZOjoqJm3m8iiPBhb5oQ4GG53tQRnsbiXRAgFDoEpeKVuNx4z1mpT_vDPKxi2-1I1P0MKBy0-UCUKf-gv9hE2RCcusALOhsQiBmOjXqwp27L3CyQdCptcBRA/s400/Love+Motel+Bed.JPG" style="cursor: hand; display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center;" /><br />
<br />
After securing rooms, we were starving and really looking for the local delicacy, Jim Tak. We went to Andong Market and within it were dozens of Jim Tak restaurants. The one that had been recommended to us was full so we ducked into another place and ordered. Like many other dishes in Korea, Jim Tak cannot be ordered for only one person because they serve you a whole chicken.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5200080889683057714" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgL2vFY19aiij_nkfFTa3wRm5SMrtMDAEScub5MRxDHPvVh4lGV_yHRSTNLBAfS2bLdTn_N-krLDtC6FxPa5ZHNxOAa6KXVid1EFKnbUxK_26iOjitUJT_4gIEt6tsqfa7TWr4EgA/s400/Cooking+Andong+Jim+Tak.JPG" style="cursor: hand; display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center;" /><br />
<br />
Korea is not very friendly towards individuals, so I often have to settle for simple dishes because I can't order the larger dishes. But luckily, I went with the boys so there was no problem! It was delicious!<br />
<br />
<br />
<div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5200080430121557010" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirb7rWYpGHHEeCOJJ1GPBa1otwEV-WibGycy-8V1VHiGfuSHxl0wbbJGpkaTiLrH56sklQSKIG9RLHUq7FQpHWkl12lW-r-J7Df4uzsNCjCOqxvFavEKB95a4r7oTLrPj9rOwSzQ/s400/Andong+Jim+Tak.JPG" style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center;" /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Awesome Andong Jim Tak</td></tr>
</tbody></table></div><br />
After dinner we wandered around downtown and decided to have a drink at a posh little bar called TOMO. It was nice and we chatted for a while before going to a noraebang (singing room). This place was amazing! It was brand new and there was a wonderful couch with a large flat screen.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5200083552562781426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxlfHDAl9cqJU56ZrRXVLizctqFeokQZnLxNL7ot7TEnQEGsazF-eYKro8ESOGeO-_0zUFAMSUzzac8gpmkfx26ImBub3BVEzi-lXOSeeeiF9L18hY1uhS7IlzD81gRn3GQWCkxQ/s400/Kick-ass+Noraebang1.JPG" style="cursor: hand; display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center;" /><br />
<br />
This place was called multi-karaoke so people could not only sing, but could also watch movies or play video games. The guys were incredibly impressed and said that they had never seen a place like that in Seoul. Andong is very surprising. We stayed there for about an hour and then went back to our respective rooms and konked out.<br />
<br />
The next day we met around 11am and decided to go to Sebiwon first. Sebiwon is a huge Buddha carved out of a rock face.<br />
<div></div><div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5200082994217032914" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1j9w_GK6BI7Smj1jxDo-DNRqktl-8Kqhb0mH0hg02ebP8ti5_z95SsWYU7O26WSMEaFi3BAxMefYhSVLpkoFZpgvZiE7M3yh28AJPqxorUpc4uD1HxAATj9TUKRba8iFP3JpQmQ/s400/Jebiwon1.JPG" style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center;" /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sebiwon</td></tr>
</tbody></table></div><div></div><br />
<br />
The body was carved first and then with another rock, they carved out the head and then added it to the body. Next to the Buddha was a small temple and we went over to see. There were many tiny Buddhas placed behind a glass case with names written on each Buddha.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5200085206125190498" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMHlEvXjTB7WMtNhJK6rE3EndFckgMiWxJ6KI_v4NwL4qGzGFJdKUs4Ml8-Ur5aV5gp6RNQ_MT9m1jgG3C8_biPmMOppDrSBhQmO09iaDCy4ipUPq4cb71nbIgC90Ws1jIkyC2Ig/s400/Prayers+for+Enlightenment.JPG" style="cursor: hand; display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center;" /><br />
<br />
It was really cool and the monk there was super helpful. He explained that people had made wishes for enlightenment to people they cared for. It was quite spiritual. I had some questions about the bowing process and he demonstrated for me on a bench! It was amazing! <br />
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<img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5200080189603388418" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifjAuTzrpwjeLnCPwsCcmLbwKMBDredln678Pm2geMQAuiy1lq3AKE2jCw7zRQ9B0yBqWNzUS548OR7OACKafqsBdMQRx1WK9UUafliF29Wmp9fhRls7e_BwnlMHuWrMB9Yy-6PQ/s400/Buddha+Lanterns.JPG" style="cursor: hand; display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center;" /><br />
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It has given me hope in strangers in Korea. Even the guys were impressed with how nice everyone was in Andong. Even the taxi drivers were nice (a rare occurence in Seoul)! What a treat!<br />
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<img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5200086017874009490" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinVb7KeizIp3KsiYxEN9C6hrwuKyUKc0DABv1rOEo4UPAqZjiX48czZHzD_qv1YMyJvOAPpbkDR01-KpcnBqrWK0ZfCPJG2WkG33AYQobiUA8ArupRecah4vSoxbSVmOA58z9K2w/s400/Temple+Protector+Close-up.JPG" style="cursor: hand; display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center;" /><br />
<br />
After Sebiwon, we finally went over to the main attraction: Hahoe village, a traditional village where the home of mask dancing is. First we stopped for lunch and had GanGoDungOh, broiled salted Mackerel. It was very good, but I agree with the guys, the rest of the food was nothing to write home about.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5200086262687145378" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7UGPmJ0eZkaCopuhrvlzXD2FrkKqF6aj_0P1wbSIkPPbytHe3adT67oiFuXk9qI9Tx1ellyUGgqtfF3mdMIQj-s8eI1b1kS72IPR0y_GBsi5tGi0993hjPAUTlYP8Qm_PYxaPRQ/s400/The+Boys+at+Lunch.JPG" style="cursor: hand; display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center;" /><br />
<br />
We headed over to the village right after lunch and happened upon a graveyard of gargoyle/totems carved out of wood. The first time I saw them was in Buan, last September. At that time, we were driving and I couldn't bring myself to ask Son Mi's father to stop the car. They were pushed into the muddy shoreline and if I remember correctly, they were used to ward off evil spirits. <br />
<br />
In Andong, the guys and I took lots of pictures and I was shocked to see some of them with penises attached to them. Korean society is very conservative and sex is never discussed in public. Here they had penis fountains. It was crazy! There are still so many things about Korea that are a mystery to me.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5200084991376825682" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAO8v__hFt6u-1TrflvKExJnxb9qwPeTougITziyWI3qIpp74zxIuD5ArJr8YAPEZPsoCgZcPrbxmWtNfJzuJe4oBc00BJgNy6RsS4hUusHFVn32ijFglz76vd29aMCAtW4CbekA/s400/Penis+Envy.JPG" style="cursor: hand; display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center;" /><br />
<br />
We then headed over to the mask dance. It was super crowded and it was very difficult to take pictures of the dancers/actors without having peoples' heads in the way. I did my best though. I bought a little booklet explaining what each story was about and that was really helpful. Here is how things panned out.<br />
<br />
<br />
<div></div><div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5200082448756186306" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipfq-Z8_8U5mt-0AoW1tl_uFvTVvBS8WGNU0H1aKCJS_-zFbO69l8c6yZALTevdm6UMF_YuYlPBPValulnfdhaLI4RKweidfoz_tq3WgfiUbB5evRno6FW766o1qsTLblchvRtfw/s400/Imae-+The+Fool.JPG" style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center;" /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong>Imae: The Fool</strong></td></tr>
</tbody></table></div><div></div><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5200086640644267458" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQ7gMZrn4U5V2kK3Cod5G3j7gschnstPRePLud1h5DtLovPIhuHSpxGoEtDZMT0yD48_76oEk2z4QXg2Qj1LMLn2CzWi32P4pTIodTWsGuQuK8Sjk5aFxe6ScW_QBhUoUy2ydQWQ/s400/The+Musicians.JPG" style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center;" /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The musicians</td></tr>
</tbody></table>From the booklet:<br />
<br />
Dance #1: Mudong Madang<br />
<br />
Lady Kakshmi appears on the shoulders of another performer asking people to make offerings for their blessing and wealth. She is the personified long goddess, so can therefore not touch the ground. By welcoming Kakshmi, the villagers please the goddess and pray for peace and an abundant harvest.<br />
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<br />
<div></div><div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5200083161720757474" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiS-xbgZrAIyoH1EukP5-jjhxH0J8zadLOaAdkJubh5eHuBV9pKxkFwbN_L4F3EODWTgP23dGSxXfKr3n6X8aN2pGUyYTK-cuX35gqQSVsBLniIyZNq-uaSoHzpOHb92fofw8xEgg/s400/Kakshi+Close-Up.JPG" style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center;" /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Kakshmi</td></tr>
</tbody></table></div><div></div><br />
Dance #2: Chuji Madang<br />
<br />
A male and female Chuji (lion) appear, dancing and playfully fighting. The female wins, promising the village high productivity and an abundant harvest for the year. The mask doesn't look at all like lions, but instead shows the creativity of people who had never seen any real lions. Lions are supreme creatures in Buddhism.<br />
<div></div><div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5200081323474754658" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIVtaOWUez1Nia5-PhPrfJm4s4H5T3kFTZX7D4RucMgBzPC2zCV7mkX15NVKARy23HqDRAP_w3xsEabKtLHhWAXeg0BwUdAY-rmS0ihfGufcxfZZ01mLxUgRV9H4CO_g5Od20UJA/s400/Chuji+Madang-+The+Lion.JPG" style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center;" /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Chuji</td></tr>
</tbody></table></div><div></div><br />
<br />
Dance #3: Paekchong Madang<br />
<br />
The butcher enters with his bag and tools and when he sees a bull come in, he dances with it and then kills it, cutting out his heart and testicles.<br />
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<div></div><div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5200086464550608306" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlz49u4OUawLHa_lv4v2N2QbsmOWnP7C2kxW71Lo8rrFkxptILESuucS2dT2lEBwx7P5xOgXCHvV6nbNVep3ig3Ud3soob90pBrW722e42K1a3X-qD-DqSx80jbvkEBWbbH6UrvA/s400/The+Cow+Peeing-+I+Got+Hit!.JPG" style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center;" /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The bull sprayed real water at the audience! </td></tr>
</tbody></table></div><div></div>He asks the spectators to buy either one. <br />
<br />
<div></div><div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5200153938486828562" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvrIaARRQpjr2pjB8BsYRNVoh0cMfFxy5__6mc4b-DaEvAELH0kvfav_YDXQN3egyZk878gxr4QHgrtoaVg1_ChzAS29kXZnp_cwzOTUdy5Is3L17KfXQ0iTDabTswTLouqtmvKQ/s400/The+Butcher.JPG" style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center;" /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The butcher</td></tr>
</tbody></table></div><div></div><br />
The act satirizes the authoritative attitudes of the ruling class toward sexual life, removing the sexual taboo. When the spectators laugh, the butcher has won over their sympathy.<br />
<br />
Dance #4: Halmi Madang<br />
<br />
An old widow appears. She had been widowed only three days after her wedding at the age of fourteen. She sits down and weaves a bit before dancing and bemoaning her ill-fortune, all the while asking for donations. The mask reveals the poverty and the face of a woman of the world as well as the conflicts between social classes and the pain of life for the common people. The open mouth on the mask indicates her readyness to take in food and pour out lamentations.<br />
<br />
<div></div><div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5200082294137363634" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsLxklKcd2r8YDti01Gruapmk6nEIAFIvAssNHxv0D0KVSx-hcVf5O09M6OAerzRIVw7jZrlR4UHEyBGZpJSwVtiNfMGrZSpNoY5XVI9Ozowgnk2wCBvx6_mWWTbK04wYAXIGRnA/s400/Halmi+Madang.JPG" style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center;" /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The widow</td></tr>
</tbody></table></div><div> </div><div>Dance #5: P'agyesung Madang</div><div> </div><br />
Young Pune dances and looking around to make sure no one is watching, squats and releives herself. Chung, a wandering monk, happens upon her and is arroused by the site.<br />
<br />
<div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5200081546813054066" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiREfjnaj8AiOCpWPk7iXErVP_bV6wFMesDRq_xo0LCmMGypHjfT3B1Wi-YFw8okdwt_cHjxFCKwaPAnJcnmwRg6SaE2jzDqME8DCw-nSJWBhbV2oKaDXvDoDyAMVTpXl7N29bCTg/s400/Chung-+The+Depraved+Buddhist+Monk.JPG" style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center;" /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Chung</td></tr>
</tbody></table></div><br />
He runs away with her on his back and is seen by Ch'oraengi, the busybody.<br />
<br />
<div> <table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5200081216100572242" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAD8sysoAksKYPG0DTeolcfiWBwaJZEMoUbmkCfjuqQlts-y_tpaYURECVcxADLsrW6V3W8kZO0_y24e3ahIJwsQ3GsQ2zAFOjiz7TK_EZmeje_LjpEb_TDMDKoFpzURu53nY8IA/s400/Ch'oraengi-+The+Busybody.JPG" style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center;" /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ch'oraengi</td></tr>
</tbody></table></div>This act criticizes religious corruption of that time period. (I bought the Chung mask for myself afterwards).<br />
<br />
Dance #6: Yangban and Sonbi Madang<br />
<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5200087396558511602" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyRXabTj6w7PjPksbOTubt2gyxcwqdfEqZw-ORPMXi7BOFBHcp6EluIx4QUVthgyhRZs3bAOQVu4GzyApH1uJ4OvawIEtuXij4uQJZvtAGuX7SB-8WFzsUNGPoVxwsw1jVXyVZcA/s400/Yangban-+The+Aristocrat.JPG" style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center;" /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sonbi</td></tr>
</tbody></table> <br />
An aristocrat (Yangban) and a scholar (Sonbi) appear, each trying to outshine the other in his knowledge and status. The are mocked by the busybody, Ch'oraengi, and lose face. The butcher appears and offers to sell them the bull testicles. At first, they hesitate, but when the butcher informs them that it will increase their sexual energies, they fight to buy them. The old widow arrives and laughs at their behavior, thereby reconciling their differences. Ch'oraengi joins them and they all dance together. This act encourages the ruling class to reconsider its real place in society, while the commoners let off a little stem, alleviating conflict between classes.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5200082203943050402" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9-g0ns7HK6w4l_Lw0NNOUrtp8uqbSycc719_KsaHDekfTwnHTYHoRAPKiPXL9OUK_4lMjQGCwG1Una7ZjDdvNJtTZe5uywmiwrmyKcdodbJqXoskWh4dRpxaCKcnFyEgmDghMOg/s400/Hahoe+Village.JPG" style="cursor: hand; display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center;" /><br />
<br />
All in all, I loved the show, but Koreans tend to talk a lot during shows and that was a bit off-putting. There were many kids complaining to their parents that it was boring, but I enjoyed the live druming and dancing. Peter liked how they used their shoulders when dancing. Traditionally, only men perform in these dances and such was the case on Saturday too. </div><br />
<img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5200081967719849106" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_RbdhAPFbdKw8dRraTzlt8_-PDU9FG5yhCnr8SK0dXEvjIh3k7gtwPaxDQeKLIeBy_3Wt9XIUxLutHMZsFN17WNpGZYQDtW4hmlNg5OxuLF0xH5wiQbyv_2d_YCkUK7fu6cHc-g/s400/Even+Carcasses+are+Beautiful!.JPG" style="cursor: hand; display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center;" /><br />
<br />
After the show, we wandered around the village and happened upon many a beautiful sight. Old buildings that had partially crumbled into ruin, a view of the river winding around the village, incredible trees sprouting in every shape and form. It was a very peaceful, if windy area. The sky was clear and calm and everyone was having a good time.<br />
<img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5200093577016450562" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdP-viSwQ6TXwp0De8PzDakP3JylvfSC3PWsRRUCQA00bUdENa_keoGHZqrjCtRWCe74qk5AAF1iYwsJ5EoRqIQdLvW-7eKO0UYagb3lZ5rRKd8lgKCkv5PlKXO4gvWKxX132D0Q/s400/River+bank+in+Hahoe+Village.JPG" style="cursor: hand; display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center;" /><br />
<div align="justify"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5200085481003097458" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0uNJAJx3ahWgtJNjnmMgXvZcvXs93ecFYIWpbW6kXtBOBVwHcieFE7Xx4PZb3EgVL_rFFu-heW9b8gAl28HBYdt-EcuT7UBzWgbLZiA1TCmVzEu-z3gEmTDf0qis75vUf0AR1aQ/s400/Sunset+in+Hahoe+Village1.JPG" style="cursor: hand; display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center;" /><br />
<br />
We decided to spend our second night in the village and so went about trying to find a minbak that wasn't too expensive. We tried about four places before we found something. It was a very old house with an almost equally old owner, an adorable withered grandmother who very obviously lived alone. It was kind of sad that she lived alone, but she was very sweet.<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5200084467390815538" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSSWJ1iI0tBPEdqlqFyZdcx9duu-QEHSqxF5CVi1GL0ziP6oq-VELvUAaORazvDWW4aqeZ-R2dniG4VSkMoGbO2ANpVBkaQzyFQTy0IUKQnJ6NVXJ5ITc6YdKvLMcmqEDC1FaKdA/s400/Our+Homestay+in+Hahoe+Village+with+Grandmother+Included.JPG" style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center;" /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Our minbak with our very own grandmother!</td></tr>
</tbody></table> <br />
<br />
We rented two rooms, each room 30,000won. What I found most amazing was that each room was fitted with a TV! Who would have thought! The doors were incredibly small and when I stood inside my room, my head nearly reached the ceiling. Traditionally, Korean homes were heated from the floor boards and in this house, both modern and traditional heating systems were used. Both, however, were heating from the floor boards. The boys had a traditional room in the sense that wood was burned under the room and therefore heated the room that way. It's really quite cool and their room was warmer than mine. In modern times, they use a boiler system with water to heat apartments. This system makes much more sense than how we heat apartments in the west. As heat rises, your feet are never cold in the winter and since I sleep on a mat, I remain quite warm in the winter. This house also used mats. The toilet was basically an outhouse with a modern seat placed on top. It smelled like a regular outhouse though!</div><br />
<div align="justify">After securing rooms, we went into town to buy some alcohol and then returned to the village where we had dinner at a restaurant. It was quite nice because we had our own room to eat in. It was 100% private in that we could screen ourselves into our room with papyrus doors and that was really cool. It was quite cold by that time and we walked our way back to the minbak where we went to the boys rooms and had some bokbunja (a Korean liquor made from wild raspberries; sweet but delicious). We went to bed and planned to leave at 7am the next morning.</div><br />
<div align="justify">That was the end of our trip and it was wonderful. There had been no awkward moments and we got along really well. The boys really took amazing strides to speak in English the whole weekend and they are really sweet and went along with everything I wanted to do. I didn't have to compromise a thing and that's quite rare when you travel with others. </div><br />
<div align="justify">The only thing that I would have wished to have done would have been to see the Mask Museum, but we ran out of time. Perhaps, if I return to Korea one day, I will get a chance to travel around and see some more things, but until that day arrives, I have to remember the good and the beauty I have seen up 'til now and cherish those memories to the best of my abilities. </div><br />
<div align="justify">Next month I plan to visit Seokcho, a coastal town where I want to eat raw fish as well as visit one of the most famous mountains in Korea, Soraksan. I look forward to that next adventure, but until then, I will keep these memories close to my heart as the clock counts down the months until I leave Korea.</div><br />
<div align="justify"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5200081082956586050" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9VkJ1I4B5w_xXGgXJ-mF1SQ6nxmf8mAMXNEdF71bfSq8Q1wRbtwf8MMadeaey5LIgeVPAhMS7m5E5i9dRMzWnAZOfcMOYTHlUkEIwUGqponJA_QFUbccBy8_QoCEyW09evm36fg/s400/Double+Rainbow+on+a+Sunny+Day!.JPG" style="cursor: hand; display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center;" /></div></div>Lhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07266164231840295693noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-34194462.post-22697591462478629432008-05-12T20:10:00.047+09:002010-12-23T05:26:09.954+09:00Gyeongju on a Long Weekend<div align="justify"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5199728715249687298" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6EP-qpQV7Fs5dU957TlsrcfulyyTBTv2IyNO1hfQhfEHrkBNg7XCbnnyHN7a2MN4ErBEsxVqYYe04t6uyIbOp30pkcfKIt4Sd6tJzWDGTljFae23sIbGCNfVH9BBfFor1Ol6faA/s400/Buddhist+Sculpture+on+the+Side+of+the+Road.JPG" style="cursor: hand; display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center;" /><br />
<div align="justify">On the weekend of May 3rd, I went to Gyeongju, the former capital of Korea during the Shilla Dynasty. Originally, I was going to go with a person who is very special to me, but things didn't work out and I ended up going on my own. But that's alright, I'm used to being alone and if there is something I know, I know how to travel alone. So I set out on a Friday night after work and took the bus from The Express Bus Terminal. It was a midnight bus and though I had heard that the trip would take 4 hours, it only took 3 and a half hours. Originally, I naively believed that I would stay up and watch the sun rise, but when I arrived in Gyeongju, I was dead tired and so set out to find a motel.</div><img alt="" border="0" height="400" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5199731773266402178" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibY09uEB_eMKkdkrxu73alJbxZCo40HTKW0XiQtWzrkXXDzowZjBCLAm4MzS01oiUD4bHZjE30J3IjWmZkGkip1fJup5bx8BrGJ2RgDGM5PVhXdGmnRR0TxuA-BfJBwWAPdGCU6w/s400/Buddha+Head+in+Gyeongju+Museum.JPG" style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center;" width="270" /><br />
<br />
I walked around for a while, not having planned anything for this trip. There is a certain freedom in that. I finally found a guest house called Tae Yang Jang. It's very clean and quite cheap(30,000won). It was perfect. The owners were helpful and it is close to the bus station and quiet as well. I slept in really late, feeling a little guilty, but I had to remind myself to stop doing that to myself. I finally left the motel at 2:45p.m. and went exploring. I wanted to see the dance performance that is on Saturdays, but it started at 3p.m. and I didn't want to rush, so I gave it up. Instead I went to Gyerim Forest with a view on many ancient graves set under huge mounds. They are definitely conspicuous, but beautiful. The park was very peaceful and there were many gorgeous trees there. It felt good.<br />
<img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5199729050257136402" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8Rntsm8OEHdETF-SP3Bbi9DcfE-xggj1OUNNSLxJFfH7vg8afiONe236EUzljl-7c7baEE8aO2RQtgRseP6QfULQMdEtTLMqGWKJ10mWo7tpgnfFuPIw7nDy9sx7oDTT7JwBEig/s400/At+Gyerim+Forest.JPG" style="cursor: hand; display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center;" />There were many couples walking around together, it was a very romantic place and I smiled at them and their lazy mini-holiday. That was just right. Perfect weather, perfect wood, who wouldn't want that?<br />
<br />
<img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5199729548473342754" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAYMJ2sx_IWBxLJq1bDXNlrlSRG7Wq_uX4ehp7xil1ruXF2WYxD3iMbasLdwVTwrBg6i0kdtu1tC5bG2Um66e2r_d7p6EYE1PhAtpfmjNO2vrx6yE_Z5oKLNZu8tFdaEsPCeAP1g/s400/Trees+in+Gyerim+Forest.JPG" style="cursor: hand; display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center;" /><br />
After Gyerim Forest, I went over to Anapji Pond, a pond that had been constructed in 674 by King Munmu during the Shilla Dynasty.<br />
<img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5199729995149941554" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsVcKK9KPuOBEpdsx99dkwM92zyF-6hmAtB5xhNJlj2aJ7smGZEiaghYryyrlqHEArt_uOdoOO99cJecwMEAtq6WKUtx7EdD3alw4DnxhIkjtsEAD2WdPg1qo1TKKGbQdF2xEp4A/s400/Anapji+Pond1.JPG" style="cursor: hand; display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center;" />The pond itself was quite beautiful, but the building around it was nothing special. I didn't stay very long. After the pond, I carried on to the Gyeongju National Museum. It is quite an impressive place, with many buildings dedicated to different things. At first I went to see what Lonely Planet called the Emile Bell. I don't understand why they called it that because it is not at all Korean sounding. Anyway, it is one of the most precious Korean National Treasures and I believe is the oldest bell in Korea.<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5199730751064185682" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKGryroZ6XbubvHX-7vCEQ-1GALaoz6lEnocG0cAamyIu1fupUNcYgg4JEY4ncLTMIUXv1w2TLzmCZMJUMrn_6tTjMTWlm_4pnZkm22Gphca_UhX4mVB1ffS69Cd-_hf_8kXsnew/s400/National+Treasure+Bell-Gyeongju+Museum.JPG" style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center;" /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Emile Bell</td></tr>
</tbody></table> I've seen many bells though and so this one doesn't stand out that much more, but there were some interesting carvings on the bell that the camera did not pick up very well. You'd have to be there. The pressing interest in the museum was what had been recovered from Anapji pond. Apparently during the Shilla period, many random things were thrown into Anapji pond, I guess like a kind of garbage can. In a way it's too bad, but in another way, I'm really glad they did that because it allowed scientists to discover these treasures when they drained the pond in the 1970's.<br />
<br />
There were all kinds of random things in there, including porcelain cups and saucers, candle snuffers and jewelry.<br />
<img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5199730493366147906" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifipBHuM0hdaYXkGBjGjyIViuyEsP3U-2gsTu-goqAkjZnzxJT5aeLOOq3gjp8l_L_5_VMgfQLmVit4rz7kuOjuZTGP6QxPZriRtqxVKAuhjEuOjMoISCp_8Qik8ptDUsqOkyM_A/s400/Candle+Snuffer.JPG" style="cursor: hand; display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center;" /><br />
<br />
Strange things to throw out, but what can you do? After visiting the Anapji building, I went to see the golden crowns. In the Shilla period, crowns were made out of almost pure gold and had a few different shapes, most particularly a style that resembled antlers. They discovered a very well preserved crown by accident. They wanted to do a test run on one tomb, to see how they could access it without destroying it. The tombs were constructed in such a way that they were supposed to cave in if anyone tried to go inside. While doing this test run on a tomb that they thought was insignificant, they discovered the bones of a king as well as his crown. It was a great discovery and it looked absolutely amazing!<br />
<img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5199734298707172338" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiON14CoB9pk-u8ApD_93IbIJoBJbwpeukG0UvUKXF1VBeqB6dXxFdKZY_OS7tWxGR9TDWVpSn3qaFozzYeUnUi8VT5W5KsilFocCd_AjucxA1qAZZG-LEGzL1GxOYdg7EKKeMI9w/s400/The+Remains+of+a+Buried+King-+Shilla+Dynasty.JPG" style="cursor: hand; display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center;" /><br />
<br />
You will have to go see it sometime. Another plus, for some reason, is that the museum was free. I'm not sure whether it was a fluke, but still, it was a really nice little treat.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5199731021647125346" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEheQqKO03VUEN4OCfzoipDfRQQhmcHf9yZj9ALkuBQ5ka6cox76JzdMSZufawPN0KUq7Iu8nvGB3PcYLPGgV_Eav4lago5ADhN92Z8-QM5DZ0Q35x76Rcy3z_4GJ-r0QKeNc7-OdQ/s400/Gyeongju+Golden+Crown-National+Treasure.JPG" style="cursor: hand; display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center;" /><br />
After the museum I started to walk back to the motel, but I was hungry so I stopped at a restaurant and had dolsot bibimbap, bibimbap served hot. It was quite good. I think I was the only person eating there alone. People stared at the foreigner eating and reading alone at a table. Koreans do not like to travel alone. It's taboo. Everything must be done in twos or groups. If people have no one to go somewhere with (including the movie theater), they tend not to go at all. Women will go to movies with other women, but men will not generally go unless they have a girlfriend. They miss out on so much...it's kind of sad, really.<br />
<br />
Anyway, back to the subject. I went to the bathroom and when I went to wash my hands, the soap was on the counter and there was a Coca-Cola cap stuck in it.<br />
<img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5199731365244509042" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNZNXl2PRwi47wF22kgGyct2VxmzAH5_PgucQG9TG8iyI89zZiG2tTmZP5VJ_tMnuMIty_Gs2xMx55ytjyuB5bk9xHxo1OX86Ax5BDtawCZtsDfp3L9JEAGKhYdairUQAiVH-cEg/s400/Coca-Cola+Caps+Are+Used+for+Everything!+Even+Holding+Soap+Through+Magnetism.JPG" style="cursor: hand; display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center;" />I found that really strange, but then I realized that they used the metal from the cap to act as a receiver for a magnet. There was a holder above the soap where you could stick the soap and it suspended from the holder through the use of a magnet. Wow! I bet you Coca-Cola has no idea how inventive their products can be!<br />
<br />
I walked back to the motel in a round-about way, not wanting to take the same path. I stopped at a convenience store to buy a few things and then set about trying to find the motel. What I hadn't realized was how incredibly difficult it was to find motels in this city! It was crazy! The streets have names, sometimes, but no one uses names to find anything here. You just kind of have to know. I tried to find it on my own and then ended up going around in circles for over an hour. By then, I decided to suck up my pride and ask someone. I had the motel's business card and started asking people how to get there. It took me another 30 minutes before I finally found it. It was really ironic. I have a really good sense of direction but Gyeongju really tested my confidence in that area.<br />
<br />
I remember visiting Amsterdam several years ago. With the girls I traveled with I found a coffee shop that I really liked. I didn't retain the street name, nor did I remember the name of the shop. I just remembered that it was on a corner at the edge of a canal. If you've ever been to Amsterdam, you know that there are canals absolutely everywhere! About 8 months later, I returned to Amsterdam where I met up with a really cool friend, Walter. I wanted to show him the coffee shop I had been to so I took him on a little scavenger hunt for that one coffee shop. It took me about 30 minutes to find it, but I did find it and it was very cool. I was really impressed with my memory after 8 months, but here I was in Gyeongju and I couldn't find my motel less than 24 hours after arriving! It was an embarassingly funny situation. By the time I got back, my feet were killing me.<br />
<br />
I went to bed and the next day forced myself to wake up earlier so that I could go to Bulguksa. My friend Steve had suggested that I hike up the mountain to see Seokguram Grotto over by Bulguksa. When I arrived at the bottom of the mountain after a 30-minute bus ride, I had lunch and set off to the tourist office. They informed me that the hike would take 1 hour. I cringed and she smiled. Koreans are expert hikers. People of all ages do it and they hike really quickly. It's quite embarassing for me because I remember lagging behind all the middle-aged people who hiked up Halla Mountain in Jeju Island a year earlier. It took me and Seung-Ah 4 1/2 hours to reach the top, but other Koreans did it in 3 hours. So when the woman told me it would take an hour, I was expecting a much longer trek. I was soaked in sweat as I hiked up the mountain, but it was quite peaceful and I had my MP3 player for company. I managed to keep a slow, but steady pace and to my surprise I reach the top of the mountain in 40 minutes! I've got some juice left in those muscles! When I got to the top, there was a Pagoda type building with a bell. I took a picture and then continued on to Seokguram Grotto. It was another 10 minutes, but the path was level, so it wasn't tiring. When I got there, there was a line a mile long.<br />
<img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5199732082504047506" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcapKefrAlB8PFNZM90K7F8k-O5k34guRjX6H6dmVomfPOd0hl8pCrwOqmVDAiqBpDxEYMc_x0V73X5YVNOECuUVBYKcarM8Dk9uVazCzaiTamrSlzDk9CnZU2tYA-AE7xZXqgow/s400/Long+Line+to+See+Seokgulam+Grotto.JPG" style="cursor: hand; display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center;" />Luckily the line moved quickly and I was able to get to the grotto within 30 minutes. It's considered a world heritage site and I can honestly say that I agree. Once you get inside it's magical and mystical. Unfortunately you can't take pictures inside, so you'll have to settle for a description.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5199732507705809826" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlLJtMuA1zlaLF2GwPim145oUXMfJIasUb5NRaTh-HmpIPxoxM6xPHLP8SIzjCypMjoXgWtFGxHog-HmTPhjE6amSSx9bG2Ne00NBVM6vqWL5H4ZEplI89UPUfInl_5vPcleBobg/s400/Seokgulam+Grotto.JPG" style="cursor: hand; display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center;" />The stone Buddha is recessed and in the foreground, to the sides, are reliefs of different people, but guarding the Buddha are two statues who look like they can really do the job. Well-lit, the fierceness in their stance and expressions is easily seen. They are the Deva kings. The Buddha itself seemed to be made of marble (though it is stone). It is so smooth-looking and it glows as though from the inside out. Even with the bustle of people being herded through, I was able to stand back for a moment and inhale that glow. You need to be there to understand. I'm glad I did the hike.<br />
<br />
I walked back down the mountain and then headed to Bulguksa Temple. Temples are like churches, they all look the same after a while unless something extraordinary sets it apart somehow. I guess that's what religious places tend to be like. But the pond at the entrance was really beautiful and I spent a moment there, admiring the view.<br />
<img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5199732859893128114" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjI5r4WEMIMdAeQfCK7_GDwyot8VOT-ZzyefRh14WoGe4q0oYQR5ngsSR1MJIBZckndRj5z9VFH5-HVgG-hNwcSJuLgrhyphenhyphenbxlwwj8Zfv6uKxSUol7fiZjd2BQhaLz8WQdbUHS38cg/s400/Bulguksa+Gardens.JPG" style="cursor: hand; display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center;" />The rest of the temple was like many other temples I've seen. Beautiful, of course, but nothing really different from what I had already seen.<br />
<br />
When I got back to Gyeongju I thought I remembered the motel. I first decided to buy some Sansachune (a kind of Korean liquor; sweet). Afterwards, something came over me. A will I hadn't felt in a long time: fight. So, I decided to find my way back to the motel another way. The night before it had taken me about 1 1/2 hours. That night, it only took me 20 minutes! I'm was quite proud of myself, though I have to say that I was having some doubts as I went about trying to find it. I felt that there were many elements of deja vu working against me then. But it was an improvement!<br />
<br />
The next day was Monday and I was leaving at 2:00p.m. I had some time to take a last look around so I left my bags at the motel and headed back over to the Gyerim Forest area. I finally went in to see Cheomsongdae Observatory.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5199733151950904258" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPXht20yRDkAsEui4iROiNTVwNrO4eBdz7qJ_t1hfp1_ourv5Wd3UGNf8cAJcAnHL1yJg335wmzTSywMx1HP0MdxIbf7hyWrQBELt5u3B8pP_yV2k-Y1QjvGdxg12tumlZe4NXJQ/s400/Chomseongdae+Observatory1.JPG" style="cursor: hand; display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center;" />It is the oldest observatory in Eastern Asia. On Saturday I didn't go in because I had seen a sign that said it cost 8,000won to enter and I found that ridiculously expensive so had decided not to go inside. But when I went back on Monday, I realized that the real price was only 500won. I'm glad I went back! While inside, I saw a man setting up a tripod to snap a shot of him and his family. I offered to take the picture for them, it would be easier that way, less time consuming; but he refused! You know, Koreans as strangers are not friendly at all and it kind of hurt because I was only trying to help! My students have told me before that Koreans are kind of afraid of people traveling alone, they find it strange. When I recounted that story to my high level students last week, the girls said it was because the man was with his wife and that she would have been upset with her husband if he had accepted my offer. I don't know if I believe that, but I just have to accept that I guess I'm not always appreciated. The male students thought that the man probably refused because he thought that I wouldn't take as nice a picture as the tripod automatic system would. Whatever...<br />
<br />
I wanted to see the ruins of the castle Banwolseung, so I wandered over there after the observatory. The path had called to me on Saturday but I had prioritized other places. When I arrived there, there were no ruins left. The whole castle had been destroyed. The only thing left is an ice storage building which was pretty cool.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5199733448303647698" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkMxMP1zVJStNHJKt2djFMEIT1-R0FnR-EoBbEojBTmfQWhvSEfGI1-LTt8Leh4aoResXFZhttWpUJMG8RyXW10qd_fcv4f4lOLMk9LRrxBCYHexiLwTj_AGTIEW0KhL0qBLxv3A/s400/Ice+Storage+Building-+The+Only+Thing+Left+of+Banwolseong+Castle.JPG" style="cursor: hand; display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center;" />The forest area is pretty nice and quiet so I isolated myself and sat down for a while. It was a bit chilly under the shade of the trees so I didn't stay long.<br />
<br />
After the ruins, I decided to walk through downtown for a while, check it out at my own pace. On my way back, I was taking some shots of the trees in bloom when a car stopped and asked me for directions to Chomseongdae Observatory. When I turned around, they realized that I was a foreigner and kind of gave up, but I gave them directions in my broken Korean anyway and they thanked me in English. It felt good to help out. It kind of canceled out the rejection to my offer earlier that morning.<br />
<br />
As I headed back to the motel, I finally stumbled upon Daerumuun (Tumuli Park)!<br />
<img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5199733946519854050" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXwk91khmB1j_agimvwHTG_6AbLC6EA7FJGQNTOUZpJ4GWJ6T2CHAPHOZvQkOq2YMl40W8HfJiwDn-3jYdCaQNC9z2dFXpI3TmVgHFbTwapjPL-hi4QOoJgcjYQ-7pqcL9nKCG6w/s400/Tumuli+Park+Pond+with+Tombs+in+the+Background.JPG" style="cursor: hand; display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center;" />This was indicated on the very attractive but poorly made tourist maps of the city, but I had not been able to find them anywhere! I paid for the entrance fee and it was quite an impressively large park. I wandered through it and took lots of pictures of trees. The trees in this country are fabulous. I'd love to make a photobook just on the trees I've taken pictures of in the past 10 years. It would be so much fun! I exited the park at the far end of the park and realized that the exit gave out on Gyerim Forest! It had been there in front of my face the whole time, but I hadn't see it! These are the things I love about traveling...the little surprises and discoveries.<br />
<br />
All in all, a very successful trip. This past weekend, I went to Andong, but that's another tale. Soon to come!</div>Lhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07266164231840295693noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-34194462.post-76206015726482295062008-05-02T09:22:00.007+09:002010-12-23T05:31:51.627+09:00Bu Huang - The Art of Korean Massages<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0pHxVn1JCmxL-DRU_G83zChyeiStYpP2w0mLwLxUGPfcTVe9EezN6jFKYNqb4X7DEwMkhluE8NO7ajzl9Jr0vO-hFY3inpxGeiKn4ihILkUxr94iomlO5YHdyNs2kqlbQsOS59g/s1600-h/Bu+Huang.JPG"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5195573899041806690" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0pHxVn1JCmxL-DRU_G83zChyeiStYpP2w0mLwLxUGPfcTVe9EezN6jFKYNqb4X7DEwMkhluE8NO7ajzl9Jr0vO-hFY3inpxGeiKn4ihILkUxr94iomlO5YHdyNs2kqlbQsOS59g/s400/Bu+Huang.JPG" style="cursor: hand; display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center;" /></a><br />
<div align="justify">Back in March one of my co-workers told me about a massage place that gives 2-hour massages for the ridiculously low price of 70,000won. I was immediately interested in trying it out. I'm always up for a cheap massage.</div><br />
<div align="justify"></div>The owner of the place was a student at YBM and she did the massage for me personally. Korean massages are not your relaxed Swedish-style massages where you fall asleep with the rhythmic movements of an artist's hands. No, Korean massages are rough and the massage therapists work into your muscles with fervor.<br />
<br />
<div align="justify"></div>For roughly an hour I was given a dry massage. They provide a t-shirt and shorts and massage over the clothing. It wasn't relaxing and was kind of painful, but I knew I would feel better after the fact.<br />
<br />
<div align="justify"></div>Later, the oil was brought out and a slightly softer version was administered to my aching muscles. I really enjoyed it, having been subjected to the rougher versions of massages in the past 5 years or so (Thai, Aryuvedic...).<br />
<br />
<div align="justify"></div>Then came the Shiatsu-style massage. She got on top of the table. There were poles bolted to the ceiling and as she held on to them, she used her feet to give me a deep tissue massage. Interesting how the feet can work out those kinks. In addition to her feet, she used her elbows.<br />
<br />
<div align="justify"></div>This little woman, small of stature and thin as a rail, had such power in her body it was hard to imagine how she was able to possess such strength, but my body felt the effects.<br />
<br />
<div align="justify"></div>It was quite good.<br />
<br />
<div align="justify"></div>And then the clincher...She used what we call in Korea "Bu Huang", which is basically cupping. In European history, leeches were placed on the skin and a cup was fitted on top of the leeches, creating suction. The leeches would then do what leeches do and suck out what was thought to be bad blood.<br />
<br />
<div align="justify"></div>In Korean culture, bu huang is used in traditional Korean medicine. I used to go to a clinic twice a week to get treatment. Bu huang was among those treatments. They would prick my skin with small needles to get the blood flowing and then place glass cups over the skin. Some kind of suction device was then used. It is a painful process and as my skin is particularly sensitive, I would lie there, trying to breath through the pain, hoping this process would help relieve the chronic pain in my neck, shoulders and back.<br />
<br />
<div align="justify"></div>In the massage parlor, she didn't prick my skin first, but she did use the cups to create suction on my skin. Not the best part of the massage, I must admit.<br />
<br />
<div align="justify"></div>Afterwards, though, I did feel better. Two hours of massage will do that to almost anyone. The problem, however, was that my skin was so bruised that even wearing a shirt was painful. Imagine trying to sleep afterwards! <br />
<br />
<div align="justify"></div>In the future, if I can, I will definitely do it again, but I'll forego the bu huang. I want to have a good night's sleep.<br />
<br />
<div align="justify"></div>Another Korean Experience!Lhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07266164231840295693noreply@blogger.com12tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-34194462.post-45467093532010480152008-04-27T21:25:00.131+09:002010-12-23T06:14:59.143+09:00Chuseok - Or, Korean Thanksgiving 2007I've been wanting to express to you the time I spent in Jeon-Ju and Buan for Korean Thanksgiving for a long time, but I've been so incredibly lazy and I let my little life and world get in the way.<br />
<div align="justify"><div><div><div><div><br />
<div align="justify">It was an amazing time and a great opportunity to visit another part of Korea. I was lucky enough to be invited by, my then, Korean teacher to spend time with her and her family in her home town. This brings back my first memory of being invited for Thanksgiving. It was my first year of university and I had been invited to Moncton (Canada) for what I would consider a “real” North American Thanksgiving. It was that; I’ll always have fond memories of it.<br />
<br />
Thanksgiving in Korea is considerably different. Here’s how it went.<br />
<br />
On the first day, we took the KTX (high speed train) to Iksan and then transferred to a regular speed train to Jeon-Ju. It was dark and raining by the time we got to Jeon-Ju. We were picked up by Son Mi’s parents who immediately took us to a restaurant. I, who hadn’t had a cold since April, was sick and getting sicker by the hour. I was hoping it would pass. We had dinner with her parents’ friends. They were celebrating a birthday. Five couples in total plus me and Son Mi. I tried Hong Oh for the first time. </div><br />
<div align="justify">Now, hong oh is skate (looks similar to sting ray, I think) that is marinated in this foul-smelling and fouler tasting ammonia-based something or other. It is basically rotten, uncooked fish prepared on purpose for this particular flavor. You eat it with a piece of pork and kimchi to make a trio. That particular trio is called “sam-hap”.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5193901254093150130" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCC3zMawnfGb7NHIG2Dsy9Ms6OhyphenhyphenL5mHHdlAQO0Drg_XPzZgPAR3TCLxuxd-_HcoQ6tB1K0jmy7tB5x_KzcqBBoxOWdeCMywDrQaIp30zDa5UQfe79JB3rm9VUcSp6asaXfM9ukg/s400/000021.JPG" style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center;" /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sam Hap: fish on the bottom left</td></tr>
</tbody></table> <br />
<div align="justify"></div>At first, it seems okay until the taste permeates your mouth. Afterwards, you can’t get the taste out for hours. Son Mi likens it to a kind of minty flavor. I wouldn’t say that exactly, but that’s the closest description I could think of. This is probably the first thing that I actually hated. I don’t like all Korean food, but most of it, I either love, like or can tolerate. This one, I’m happy to never eat again. The main course was some kind of fish stew. Kalchi (a kind of fish) stew. It was okay. Nothing special. After dinner I really needed medicine and her parents were nice enough to help me find a pharmacy open at 9:30p.m. I immediately took the medicine and started feeling better within the hour. </div><br />
<div align="justify"></div>All I wanted to do was go to bed, but then her mother asked us to do some work. We had to separate the heads (and therefore poop) from the bodies of I don’t know how many pounds worth of myolchi (anchovies). It started off pretty tedious, but it was cool after a while because I got the hang of it. The anchovies were dried, of course, and we were doing this in front of the TV. The movie “The Island” was on, which I had never seen. Son Mi has a much shorter attention span than I do so she quit a few times as I continued. I felt a strong sense of duty was involved because they were housing me and paying for everything (transportation included), so I carried on, as I can when I put my mind to something. We went to sleep around 12:30a.m. and had to wake up at 7:00a.m.<br />
<div align="justify"><br />
The next morning we got dressed and then met up with two of the couples from the night before, and their kids. We left the city to go have breakfast at a restaurant famous for their soondubu (soft tofu stew). It was really good, but too copious for me that early in the morning.</div><br />
<div align="justify"></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5193902065841969090" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmu2crH9ArERAfNLNG_D7AXj-8tVN3OfH59tdGnXOE40AButbpAdgaND6B1p_G3yisbTjAR7_UywMniipaRxn9JTkXMTPQmGp83xg8RVUyNqMp8xmOu_u5EtWllBBxsBWFNkXLVg/s400/000023.JPG" style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center;" /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Soondoobu</td></tr>
</tbody></table><br />
<div align="justify">We returned to the apartment (by the way, the apartment is really extravagant and posh) and finished working on the anchovies. It felt good to finish all of them! We later went downtown to where the old buildings from centuries ago still stand. It’s the place in Korea where most of these old building (around 800) still exist in one place. It was where the aristocracy lived. We toured that area and I took lots of pictures.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5193909268502124770" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhayB5soJg8OiZfmWoNIaGSDE54SXkAE6RnrEqpYx1UBK12vioWMhPqIUX3yChZjpTmwQij3ZWR-vHK9rcjfNf8B_8qrNIlnM5qvXeWn4ErUUHOywjLG8cyCYpNkSWGdkx1he2Pjg/s400/000027.JPG" style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center;" /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Downtown Jeon-Ju</td></tr>
</tbody></table></div></div><br />
<div>We walked around quite a bit and though it was drizzling, we kept on the lookout for cool experiences. We found an old house that was inhabited by a rich Jeon-Ju family. It was quite ironic to find a basketball hoop peeping out over the top edge of the stone wall; a weird sign of modernity set before such a historical backdrop. I had to take a picture. Even if you embrace the past, the present creeps up nonetheless.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5193902963490133986" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQMi8IanG6mSJRPYcM-tegemKbNGegMbLvn-WOXpTthi_yuAkhR-F8p7Q1mapEQxXdDiLSBPW6DTrWHY50XdXu6AeS14Xy4rv0p7nV3I8uK_TRLh6nENxzj_SF9WjGocmC3aDSUw/s400/000039.JPG" style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center;" /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A basketball hoop in a traditional home</td></tr>
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After visiting that house, we turned up a small cobble stoned path where we encountered a cultural site. It was an area that celebrated the past of this wonderous city and one of the houses in that complex had traditional wedding hanboks we could try on. It was cool. The headdress was really heavy!</div><div></div> <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5193903246957975538" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjaIewfesJ9HoKV6DlH6MW5aDeXzoX6GxlsSVj40e1V7CgOQLszb0C7YLebhKd37NBDoq6lCeL50dFSGhmtmxrOfdvD6whFsxEzgkKgZtJjIUb6nA6UoLdmA0XaDqy9VUaojlIZXQ/s400/000042.JPG" style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center;" /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I was the bride and Son Mi, the groom</td></tr>
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We were also offered some green tea and my favorite Chuseok treats “songpyon”: steamed rice cake filled with sesame seeds and melted brown sugar. Delicious!</div><div><br />
Afterwards, we kept wandering about and came upon a paper shop. Basically they make all kinds of things out of paper, including ties! What’s so amazing is that for some of these, you would think it was real fabric! Jeon-Ju is know for this particular type of paperwork. They made some beautiful pieces and I bought a few as mementos and gifts.<br />
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After noon, we met up with her parents and had lunch. We had the ever famous Jeon-ju Bibimbap and I have to say it lives up to its name. It was excellent! I wasn’t really impressed the first time I had bibimbap because the vegetables were raw and the rice was cold (this was in Seoul), so it wasn’t really impressive. This bibimbap was served hot and the veggies had been steamed. It was great!<br />
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I was later to learn the difference between regular bibimbap and dolsot bibimbap, the latter which is served hot in a special bowl that keeps the ingredients warm for a long time. I never ate regular bibimbap again. Once you go dolsot, you never go back! </div> <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5193903612030195714" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikkqQRfiAdZbAvUi7uNdSp9mnfq4fyFqLTdDRPKhh3Kuie8CZDLJ2Z5KsMFHeMU5Uw5-vjprDEzKdmRBFtUy78toTETBSWlQ4hr523lKkQ30WXp63Y7HkzJMhA0gV8fLIMIHCGDg/s400/000018.JPG" style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center;" /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Jeon-Ju Bibimbap. Yummy!</td></tr>
</tbody></table><br />
Lunch being over, we got in the car and headed to Buan, Son Mi’s father’s hometown. There I met the extended family. Her father is the oldest of 4. Three boys and one girl, if I remember correctly. The grandmother lives with the youngest son, which is pretty rare, they usually live with the oldest son, but since he lives in Jeon-Ju, I guess she opted to stay there. The second oldest son has a mushroom farm. I didn’t meet him until the next day. </div><br />
<div></div>It was quite an awkward setting. The youngest son has a wife and three daughters. The two oldest (teenagers) are well versed in piano and were continuously practicing or studying. The youngest was around 7 and took taekwondo. She showed off her superior skills to us ( we were still beginners in the martial art at that time, so she knew more than we did!). They didn’t speak any English, except for the youngest son (who, regardless, pressured me to speak Korean) and the daughter (who was an English teacher and spoke quite fluently). Imagine stepping into someone’s home where you only really know one person and being introduced to 14 new people all at once. People grilling you with questions that you don’t understand, trying not to offend anyone, being helpful and dealing with a cold all at once! Oh my god! It was quite the experience.<br />
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But they were all very nice. We sat down to dinner around two low tables which couldn’t fit us all, so there was a very obvious split. The men sat down to eat first and since I was the invited guest I got to eat with them, while the women and girls waited until there was space. Here we are back to the sexist vision of who gets to eat first. The wife of the youngest son was basically the one only cooking for 14 people and I saw her cooking all afternoon and into the night with some of the other wives and children helping out from time to time. I offered my services but was politely refused. I felt bad just sitting there like a man waiting for the food to be prepared.<br />
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Anyway, after it was all over (it was very good, by the way) the tables were cleared and the games came out. There is a very popular type of gambling game that Koreans just love called "Go Stop". It’s a card game with specific drawings and designs on them that have their natural suites. But when you play, they are matched up with other designs and then you play this all with money. It was so complicated! And though they tried to explain it to me, I didn’t get it and they eventually gave up on me!<br />
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Another game was brought out instead, an old game from hundreds of years ago, played with a board and sticks. I forgot the name. Sorry! This is a very easy game to learn and lots of fun. I had found my groove and we played with the younger members of the family while the adults kept gambling. I was later (about a month later, by a student) given this game as a gift. <br />
The next morning, we all woke up on our own (though I have to admit that the sound of the vacuum cleaner at 8am doesn’t really allow you to wake up when you want) and that’s when the women and female children of the house got down to work. We needed to prepare for the Chuseok dinner that night. It was quite the experience and I was stoked to take part and contribute to the process.<br />
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We made all kinds of fried foods dipped in a batter and fried in a special electrical pan. It was quite fun and the women were fairly helpful, though I think that they didn’t think I would be able to cook quite as well as them. I spent most of the time watching.<br />
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</div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5193904462433720338" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTx1SZqxf-1JUbg7fZrprJgKkyOJ-Iu3fP6_wqEOLW7MRKczQbYALFDWY-3f3KmqguVuLTnaru8j8622lg8lze6ISdey6pMbljU66QUzkFK-QgXUA57GUcgqMEjOsjqiRjGBYilA/s400/000022.JPG" style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center;" /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Fried fish and vegetables in batter</td></tr>
</tbody></table><br />
I guess this was inevitable because earlier in the day, we made "sook songpyon", which is songpyon made with a green plant whose name I keep forgetting in English. I much prefer the white ones, but they only made the green ones. This was a complicated process. The dough was pre-made by the wife of the youngest son, so we had to take a piece and roll it into a ball and then make a hole into which we poured a small amount of sugar and sesame seeds, the mixture also pre-prepared. We were then to close them up into a crescent shape, much like a moon. The first few I did were quite horrible compared to the others but as I continued, I think I got much better. The others didn’t think so, though, and were systematically laughing at me. It hurt a bit, but I guess that’s the lot of the foreigner trying to cook Korean food. That’s life!<br />
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Later in the afternoon, after the food had pretty much been prepared, I was kind of bored. Son Mi had gone into one of the rooms and was reading comic books and had left me in the living room watching Korean TV. I felt really out of place. Around 3p.m. or so, Son Mi and her father told me that we were going to go sightseeing.<br />
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I got dressed and we set off. I didn’t know what we could possibly see in this area. It’s a small town. But I was amazed. Our first stop was at the great dam that had been built. This is, apparently, the biggest dam in the world. The idea is to make Korea bigger. So they have planned to cut off some of the ocean and turn it into land so that factories can be built in that area. It is quite a sad thing, actually. We humans have done so many crazy things to this earth, and here is yet another thing to add to it. The locals have been very much against this project, which started in the 70s, I think. They protested for years and the government stopped it for a while when they realized the consequences of such actions. In the end, however, they went through with the project because the damage had already been done and going backwards was no long worthwhile.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5193904775966332962" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzvTSLf4ZnNm2acF9HV8Ahepc_JTl7cLH9ufzb5WQS8DY6E7NIbP_w_aYoIDuL-Mwh-VegvyFeuDAidhujZO1AOrlW72r9mFJ7NyGqM1xqo0IAnBvlRkffWlXGaDmngeC4w4-W5w/s400/000024.JPG" style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center;" /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">All the water to the right of the dam will be turned into land</td></tr>
</tbody></table></div><br />
After that sad experience, the sun started to come out (it had been raining earlier in the day and the sky had been overcast) as we drove out to the beaches. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5193905085203978290" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizO3fbAKJrQWIlAm8QshALUOgEs832gwSfhETe0kXGyboCSqfKduJ0trn2D0bVsit_KOr00v9hCDoqwN4C2KTixZdwuJJjv0do-eLBKnjLZFvmdsDRd6XhfymVi8uifB9JC90P4w/s400/000036.JPG" style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center;" /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Love this picture! Unfortunately, the power lines got in the way</td></tr>
</tbody></table><br />
<div style="text-align: justify;">The small roads were lined with delicately-colored gorgeous flowers called “gossmoss”. Some of the beaches were founded on stone and as we walked over the uneven ground, I took some interesting pictures of the wave patterns that had been carved into the stones over centuries. Tide pools were everywhere and quite a few people were enjoying the mild weather.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5193905411621492802" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQsUp9TuZgz00sjXNiALPaFERyFiAig6JLACIWuUXZnVk6tGboDMIzNQsALaoUWcyxtsg_K7UicxTQanLql8j6h8hQ8u_E8kt6EPT1O2HERVFJih8J6fKnrYYCZnkpL1e42-gSSQ/s400/000025.JPG" style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center;" /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sitting on the uneven ground. A man is fishing in the background</td></tr>
</tbody></table><br />
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On the sandy sections, seaweed had washed up on the shore. Large sacks were placed there and people were picking up the seaweed the ocean had discarded. This would then be used for cooking soups. It’s always amazing to see how the earth gives with such generosity and yet we go to the supermarkets and purchase these same items for astronomical prices.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5193905755218876498" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXsqjfmH4OXYTvARkzkXhKf_73AsIox05mzkorWjuUQXegbU4bm1EwCfpnB2qjxup3Y1YapqVe9jdMxzqYtAFisiHN_t57_b596_dUAmBrpRbR4kKsz3EuHjYGZLQ_LerNBcxSDQ/s400/000016.JPG" style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center;" /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Washed up seaweed</td></tr>
</tbody></table><br />
<div align="justify"><br />
The beaches checked off our list, we went to a movie set. When I was told about this initially, I was not at all interested in seeing it, but I was pleasantly surprised. Soap operas in Korea are a completely different affair from western-style soap operas. Over here, the most popular are shows that take place in the olden days, like during the Joseon dynasty. People are dressed in the garb of the time and the setting is in old castles. The Korean soap opera is not a sex-based affair, rather it focuses more on human life. This set had been built to look like kingdoms of that time period and I felt like I was walking into another time. It was quite cool, actually. Son Mi’s father paid for our tickets and we went inside and walked around. There is a popular show being filmed there these days, but since it was Chuseok, no one was working.</div><br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5193906085931358306" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQgt3dXveMCD62vXn7VRwNY2NQfrM-C0o_e80APTfVN8z1A1cR4oZr-_BkvJvSdiBT6uou0zO5OSHzxzM37A429mm8QLgit4RAH6XkqFuYQq8E1Wp2nj4Ut9530w4I1lcUUCdP_w/s400/000026.JPG" style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center;" /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Movie set</td></tr>
</tbody></table> <br />
<div align="justify">After we left, Son Mi’s father had one last place to show me. He had saved the best for last, in my opinion. We went to a Buddhist temple called Nae So Sa. Usually temples are up in the mountains and you have to hike to get to them, but this one is about a 10 minute walk from the road set away from any towns. It was heaven on earth. Though there were many people, we walked through a tree-lined path, dark due the canopy of trees above us and it felt like we were entered another world, which would soon be revealed to us.</div><br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5193906408053905522" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqrCaRnM-OpJM0CeD1agSX1t1mytAAnOTWDM27yTB_9wBTHUxEIOb29mgwi6m1uJ1EUe4l9Hza1y_GYgogoMwFKGDF1pXOPd59pkNeQvTx7RzB3jzmlnELBCyHFA_LB2bl4BukPw/s400/000042.JPG" style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center;" /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">View of the tree-lined path from the entrance of the temple</td></tr>
</tbody></table> <br />
<div style="text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><div style="text-align: justify;">When we got to the entrance of the temple, there was another, wider path lined with Japanese maples (one of my favorite trees in this world!) leading up to the gates. This temple was originally built in 633AD, but has been restored several times, usually due to wars. A fabulous tree towards the entrance is said to be 1000 years old.</div><br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5193906880500308098" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjB_VxrMJFDdjEvW4mG5Vqt5LozBSuLZZ-iCxf9z7UptZfaYV51mztyRbqvXgep44U_hCyC5CmcO05yIg0XjBMUOoeLT2DE6mYjgIIZTa-0v6L9mG85T_PRO6hz8SKNzei2r45_Eg/s400/000007.JPG" style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center;" /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">1000 year-old tree</td></tr>
</tbody></table> <br />
<div align="justify"><br />
There was a peace there that made me want to come back on my own for a long weekend. Many of these temples in Korea offer a templestay, which is the opportunity to go and stay in a temple for the weekend. Many times, you have to be silent during those weekends. That’s no problem for me. I spend so much time alone and with my own thoughts that I don’t need to talk. The temple is surrounded by mountains and I saw pictures of it in the winter. That would be the ideal time for me to go there. Blanketed in snow, it is a silent haven.</div><br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5193907151083247762" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9p6eOprdHD2BETc2zhc3QQjOF2mzqMf8xwmi8doPvK_ZdKbtJf4YZybkNJi450Mkj578J8-XAEFpfdvcxk-ojQq5EL8o21NGnAFRxu2b1i12FdY5WCv6btDI2gm0lRX8olIU0_A/s400/000008.JPG" style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center;" /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">View of the mountains from Nae So Sa Temple</td></tr>
</tbody></table><br />
<div align="justify"><br />
Though I have never returned to Nae So Sa Temple, I still hope to have a templestay experience in Korea before I leave. There is no downside to it.<br />
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We (I, reluctantly) returned to the apartment after that, only to go out again to the cemeteries of Son Mi’s grandmother’s parents so that they could bow to them. The sun was setting and it was getting pretty dark so the pictures I took are not perfect, but it was really interesting.</div><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5193907576285010082" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCQFpHWTY7lFirEcf5sb1NcEF3TbefGRge2w2tw7aHcGTy9njGpgn3jyZlw9iVS08cnEVH0iH-vuGCBNdG4fjHlpP4-3QGC4wgrxn67Prc1B_WFMS6V5XV_Ky5OfFfGgyLNt3XOg/s400/000017.JPG" style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center;" /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cemetary of Son Mi's grandmother's parents</td></tr>
</tbody></table><br />
<div align="justify">In Korea, the burial system is unlike anything I’ve ever seen. People are not buried in coffins and then placed six-feet below ground. Instead, they are buried and then a mound is built on top of the body. In Korea, if your family has enough money, you are not buried in a communal cemetery. Instead, you purchase land on the side of a hill and bury your loved ones there. As we drove around in the countryside, you could see hundreds of mounds dotting the landscape next to fields of rice and other agricultural goods. This tradition is devoid of religion, but definitely stems from Confucianism. About 50% of Koreans have no religion, but even those who do still carry on the traditions of honoring the dead.<br />
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That night we returned to the apartment and had a large dinner. The next morning, bright and early, we set up the offerings for the Jaesa, the official act of bowing and honoring those who have passed. This Jaesa was to honor Son Mi’s grandfather. Traditionally, it is the men of the family who are responsible for doing the actual bowing etc… but the younger generations were also included in this ritual. They even included me in it! I was uncomfortable, but they were more than happy to show me how it was done. The youngest son even took a picture of me bowing. When bowing to the deceased, you must put your right hand above your left hand. When bowing to the living (such as during a wedding) you place your left hand above your right hand.</div><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5193908117450889410" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggcpLGo9DWSdytyXc09202aODwGoc2fL5tnzeMKwVQljl0PLtjS29frbdOAZP32spvHQwKPN5kTbN5SvdFqtgrmpw8-5QR8hX_H3bdwqgBjL4LAKDJ2vIwZ1TCiEXsrlyKpUVqyg/s400/000022.JPG" style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center;" /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Here I am bowing in the far left</td></tr>
</tbody></table><br />
<div style="text-align: justify;">The tables were laden with food for the spirit. Fruits were placed in little piles and the tops were cut off so that the spirits could eat them. There is a special placement for every type of food. It is so precise that the newspapers put out an article every year at this time explaining the exact placement of every food item, including a helpful picture to make it foolproof. Son Mi's family consulted the picture in the newspaper to make sure everything was perfect.</div><br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5193921461914278130" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdvvjxNWX9wFGjbI2sYpM5yQcfdyCu5LI5u8gsXjuZeMJm2i1vHd2f1U-9aSb2im9e0Ftk_RFMJEgNkhcsvPL68ZMphx8Cl3pMOhHEhekBOJwECeo_eR-Sg3txpNJ9zk-iz-sYZQ/s400/000023.JPG" style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center;" /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Offerings for the deceased</td></tr>
</tbody></table><div align="justify"><br />
The theory is that in the morning you do the Jaesa in the home. At this moment, the spirit comes to the home because you have called to it. There is an elaborate tea service prepared where the men drink the tea. This knowledge is passed down generations, men to boys. Today, things are changing and some families allow women to perform this, but in Son Mi’s house, they were still pretty traditional.<br />
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Interestingly enough, it seemed as though the women were completely exempt from the bowing. They made the food and that was it. Son Mi’s grandmother didn’t even bow to her husband. It was all kind of confusing for me because I don’t understand the intricacies of the roles of men and women, but I took it at it came.<br />
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After doing Jaesa in the house, we set out to the actual burial site of Son Mi’s grandfather. It was a hot and sunny day. There were two mounds on the plot. One was surrounded by a little cement wall, the other went without. I asked who was in the other mound. I was told that it was in preparation for Son Mi’s grandmother. That’s kind of eerie. Here we are, the whole family, bowing down to the patriarch of the family with another mound just waiting for the matriarch to join in the not so distant future.<br />
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We spent some time there and the family had a little picnic with the food that had been prepared and I took pictures of many other families that were doing the same thing in plots not too far away from us. We were in the middle of fields of rice, but we were also giving our respect.<br />
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</div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5193908366558992594" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNQpubDzzA7ZT0O9ZudX8m6dizZSlrBVaYE3mlemloh13qzfryCciMKLRmrnDt0EEykacRXgGwwt6446A-KIby0vDREUEw48n-uwiAQ6i4uYJfuwxc8Pmq9AQhez3njU5HN7RyJQ/s400/000025.JPG" style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center;" /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bowing to Son Mi's grandfather</td></tr>
</tbody></table><br />
<div align="justify">We returned to Seoul later that afternoon and took an interminable bus ride there. It took us over 7 hours to return because of traffic (normally it takes 3 hours). And keep in mind that buses have special lanes on highways! It was crazy! All in all, a really cool experience that I will not soon forget. If you ever get to Korea, pass by Buan; a cute little town that might not say much, but take a little ride out to the coast and there are some sights that will make you smile. It was well worth it and I’ll be forever grateful to Son Mi’s really cool and wholly generous family for inviting me into their homes.<br />
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Next week I’m off to Gyeongju, the oldest town in Korea where the Shilla dynasty once had its capital. I will be traveling on my own, so I think it’s going to be a new and exciting adventure. I’ll keep you posted! </div>Lhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07266164231840295693noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-34194462.post-70225163422416190952008-04-18T11:06:00.008+09:002008-04-18T12:02:33.650+09:00Buddha's Birthday May 2007<p><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLvy1d7qAojaDVWTCBjIkw2DIcEIPlsQ12LUwk7nPMfwL8ourlXI3BKKu6G6iueeZtwDSaVlLVNASTFjoqyRqa_gX_9i1l1ZnMM8_j7zBC0HqVpTq8mw9Al3aHN1RVxsEa3MsqfQ/s1600-h/000013.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5190412817598215490" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: hand; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLvy1d7qAojaDVWTCBjIkw2DIcEIPlsQ12LUwk7nPMfwL8ourlXI3BKKu6G6iueeZtwDSaVlLVNASTFjoqyRqa_gX_9i1l1ZnMM8_j7zBC0HqVpTq8mw9Al3aHN1RVxsEa3MsqfQ/s400/000013.JPG" border="0" /></a><br />Every May Buddha's birthday is celebrated in Korea. Last year I wanted to check it out and went with Jong-In, one of my closest friends, to the main Buddhist temple downtown. It was a wet, wet day, but we still enjoyed ourselves. It was quite beautiful, actually.<br /><br />There were sculptures of baby Buddhas and shrines where incense was burned. People could pay a small fee and have their names strung up above us attached to a lantern. The colored lanterns represent good luck. I didn't buy a lantern, but I should have. I could have used that good luck. There's no downside to those types of things. </p><p><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5190411915655083282" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: hand; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhe_igmK8aQFWLGeNbA6GKY_xS4X1uDuGTvsoeVG4ob173aluOitZV4RWQVu29F9sdCKwn4_nmuX1o4RdWjRcbVFSItcoERN0HNpcQQAtNeJQ5QF-5-NNzKQWix7uC769h3IwpHBw/s400/000007.JPG" border="0" /> Hanging lanterns for good luck.</p><p><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5190412169058153762" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: hand; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZy5wvYOSnR9hPOWgA_IrKt_0-LKoUYbmuorPapK_0xbTsF7ghpBX5OgApF3MfwAktMHP0C8VeaX_p8jQzjgXuraVgapivRHHL0gxKV0EkDO9ioAL4w55gGUw44nqG5xrUdAlASQ/s400/000010.JPG" border="0" />Baby Buddha. Isn't he cute?</p><p><br />Inside the temple, tons of people were bowing down and praying to the three golden Buddhas. It was beautiful inside and there were lots of interesting architectural details. </p><p><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5190414106088404322" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: hand; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqOgBG-hp2rWx-fsCmYgnjzUooMm6UK7hJXOARCNjcRQ7ZH0dXUgqVfOdPz3Qt3x6ePWAhRwrVLZygKK8szgrWPDHek8oyhFxACK9blOO5XYXTs_hLjoFcjaN7C2_KcwtYdZRgJQ/s400/000019.JPG" border="0" /><br />But the most touching moment was the shrine about the victims of the Virginia Tech Massacre. There was a list of all the victims and it brought tears to my eyes. People placed offerings of fruit to the victims. </p><p><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5190412448231028018" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: hand; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjeP1Gs_OBT7cHjwYUNiCaLJQUscbZ67KUFgpVwFtx2n9V1e3XFA8CA9lZTEWpIdmfMFUpUcou0GMEPUqYvlYJD7CeFQ04ZRzBl9Y6GeVPs-Et8lWS7AN5xf0hBJPj_8gm9sYk_aQ/s400/000017.JPG" border="0" /><br />Later on, there was a drum performance. Three men played traditional drums without any other instruments. It was incredible. Most of the people there were older men and women moving with the tribal beats. It reminded me of the kind of drum and bass we have in nightclubs in the west. The interesting thing is that in the west, this type of music is only appreciated by the youth. Here, middle-aged people were grooving to the sounds.<br /><br /><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5190413126835860818" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: hand; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMo9YkjUDEvyNNFkkIl0gMhmoco5rtKRkUFmcUU4er3eSvlVsYFtUcA_jpV8erej8Q6WtLSbymnoRJMXoouF9DhkaF1KRi2jYs9rWgvnu1Y9QVDh_fubskF-e06llMmprVWxbDlQ/s400/000023.JPG" border="0" /><br />Life is so beautiful. </p>Lhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07266164231840295693noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-34194462.post-51686931142900079122008-04-18T10:28:00.011+09:002008-04-18T11:05:20.668+09:00Trip to Everland<div>It's been forever! I hardly remember what I've done since the last time I wrote.
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<br />I did go with some co-workers to Everland last May. It's the most famous amusement park in Korea. I hadn't been on any rollercoasters for years and years. It was lots of fun. Nice to be a kid again, eat junk food and hope to avoid throwing up on the rides. We all survived! The weather was perfect and we went on all the rides. Just a day of fun in the sun!
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<br />Enjoy the pictures. There are lots more on Kodak Gallery.
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<br /></div><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5190393103698326690" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: hand; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi62m4KZ4HIuZi-jczZX_VDtxwnTJOWeyVTO0soTAJiC2GdWpkXu5jK-QWcw9eLhKZ38nyoOBbUgoGCCKEXLKtOxb4cKsJNeNqUunMbc9GGl9SRZ_wNtduJ5YKEqU8ko1CbdzpUHw/s400/DSCF0690.JPG" border="0" /></td></tr></tbody></table>
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<br /><p>We had to get these silly fluorescent bracelets to prove we had paid.
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<br /><p><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5190393558964860082" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: hand; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOn9hT5TSGjxGvaPSTCZO5IFX5rIggMj1NAZh-4Cb6v_dZ6qnFXcqVmPAFwB21G-i7EFkwyipDDhBKNLFYDjLHKbATdsYN3mY7GmlXnplfaNzuYf4N5p-5Kfqx5NkU62PFeZpQ6w/s400/DSCF0691.JPG" border="0" />These are the crazy uniforms workers at Everland have to wear to greet people. I would die in that pink outfit!</p><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5190394873224852674" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: hand; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQDb_uqXUdEA5pCqGfu9bXZdIbUhyphenhyphenAyP9lMAH1WL16L3aZFniB5hnjDvzn6lNjmvIUpWk7MH8gVGRuVxJVQR_RmyJMYlhe__z7suOM09r0SY7fCoaIutHcmZm0SuCYwox4ZUdqtg/s400/DSCF0609.JPG" border="0" /> Jae Jin went crazy taking pictures of us all day. We went from posing to hiding as the day wore on.
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<br /><p><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5190395538944783570" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: hand; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_mlsBi-_8P7PDmPOjkaXp4MWgMmhFX8I9A7nasBK56G-AmQzXI6pKKe2vSeo0JVzliwZ5QpALyhXix0FEDmBk2MHBYTG4e02mtv63U9k7kQPWmNjIhqTsr8HG2yC1_4h1Gf4Tvg/s400/DSCF0618.JPG" border="0" /> Here we are in the rose garden. It was so incredibly cheesy, but we had fun.
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<br /><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5190396213254649058" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: hand; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjieZJ2RDXnh9Uu4NYVCB4kM0qjhfR6GkyADVt6-mVDGxbnqoQ1u4bUoqQhAHZPqlGqtQiGAIrxthswkEkMCbWu6hP3bwNvNR2bOhOTx_WARmKXUJGFnImm7SpsKhBAlSBxlDCeHQ/s400/DSCF0633.JPG" border="0" /> Here we are imitating the sculpture behind us. Jae Jin was such a good sport. He's got a funky personality. At times, quite shy and yet willing to go outside of the box and do fun things. He's a cool guy.
<br /><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5190400031480575234" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: hand; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQfmXKL21wvgpPFZsmI_W5pyvOc-jxR2XRIb1KB-WP5P_yiMukyj2rChWrkQgL5A_IzbGFjugXmVqnuOMleB_B385U-n1nYm4sd_4DNFOIsoMNppPlOmeQlIJTxT6N1bTtf2aDYg/s400/DSCF0594.JPG" border="0" />
<br />Here we are practically upside down. This was the scariest ride to look at, but it was really cool while we were on it. We flipped around back and forth. What a thrill!
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<br /><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5190397780917712114" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: hand; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMzxyH-Twn75KDM1Y3ojrm-rsyWM9-pObxIsjel0t7FmTGbZ6UCL2r0Es2GCfdhRq8rd655j2LWpzJTsEURoHmnJLeu5o88APKPtSHbeMixfMS9nRpwIouWxBzIBdTUz9NYFm52g/s400/DSCF0693.JPG" border="0" /><tbody>
<br />The end of our outing. Goodbye!
<br />Lhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07266164231840295693noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-34194462.post-26975054479166393932007-08-25T00:59:00.119+09:002010-12-24T03:21:09.175+09:00Jeju Island<div style="text-align: justify;">Seung Ah and I decided to go away on a long weekend to Jeju Island. None of us had been there before. We were pretty excited. I organized the logistical part of the trip and made our schedules, while she took care of the reservations.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br />
</div>Day 1<br />
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<div align="justify" style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;">We arrived on a Saturday afternoon and the cab company we hired for the weekend was late. But we were really excited and when the guy finally arrived, he was very helpful. We hopped in and headed straight to our first destination.</div><div style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none; text-align: justify;"><br />
</div> <table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgujZvlwHRSDODAwXKKmrv073jSC8AsCiyVJYsisKDt2jIAEr7c_mTNReSadchDHp-Sg3SU-e9yevJhzmtPa5xKPFV0rngyScJq7i_6pqqmjEvaNwgS9Vdbk-rp9pmxjrL8f0IxFQ/s1600-h/000034.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="" border="0" height="270" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5102304028782450162" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgujZvlwHRSDODAwXKKmrv073jSC8AsCiyVJYsisKDt2jIAEr7c_mTNReSadchDHp-Sg3SU-e9yevJhzmtPa5xKPFV0rngyScJq7i_6pqqmjEvaNwgS9Vdbk-rp9pmxjrL8f0IxFQ/s400/000034.JPG" style="float: left; margin: 0px 10px 10px 0px;" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">One of the interminable pictures taken of us</td></tr>
</tbody></table> <div style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none; text-align: justify;">I wanted to see this circus/horse show Lonely Planet mentioned was interesting (I trust Lonely Planet with all my trips) and so when we arrived at the Green Resort we went straight for the horses in the paddock. We were offered a ride for a fee (rather expensive, by the way). Here I was thinking that I would really be able to go for a stroll in the bright sunlight with the fresh green grass surrounding us. It was pretty hilarious, actually. After taking interminable pictures of us on the horses, the men then proceeded to lead the horses down a lane and back again. That was our ride! They were holding onto the reins the whole time! And to add insult to injury, Seung Ah, who had never been on a horse, got to canter in the paddock alone, but they held onto my reigns as my horse cantered regardless of the fact that I had taken horseback riding lessons once upon a time in my youth. I guess they didn’t want to take any chances with the waygook (foreigner)!</div><div style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none; text-align: justify;"><br />
</div> <div style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none; text-align: justify;">After the riding experience, the show was to begin, so we headed inside. The building was a bit run-down, as were the costumes the people wore, but they were amazing. According to Lonely Planet, these are Mongolians, but from what Seung Ah understood, they were Chinese. They didn’t even speak any Korean. The music during the performances ranged from meringue to classical to new age…interesting and strange. The average age of the performers was probably about 16 years old. I had a twinge inside when thinking of the child labor, but what can you do? The acrobats looked really tired, bored or upset and their costumes were both too big and too old, but they were truly incredible athletes. The pictures should prove that to you.</div><div style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none; text-align: justify;"><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiA6nW8YixqcCpkkD_Ti5vMvk1ftNk9tDkh_OejDlW1DPcWBGMoVPB-W0NF6q-dHUtZA916rFCovt7oiDZtU2R7698yDHyDfiKV8b-jrBZl39aLBHsu1YzaBfPtLm3DRLqdBaYhvw/s1600/000008.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="" border="0" height="270" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5102298758857577826" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiA6nW8YixqcCpkkD_Ti5vMvk1ftNk9tDkh_OejDlW1DPcWBGMoVPB-W0NF6q-dHUtZA916rFCovt7oiDZtU2R7698yDHyDfiKV8b-jrBZl39aLBHsu1YzaBfPtLm3DRLqdBaYhvw/s400/000008.JPG" style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none; display: block; margin-top: 0px; text-align: center;" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Green Resort Show</td></tr>
</tbody></table> <div style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none; text-align: justify;">After the bedraggled look of the acrobats, the horseback riders seemed like polar opposites. They were positively glowing and that glow was particularly obvious in a six year old boy who rode horses as if he had been raised by them. His pride in accomplishing each feat brought spontaneous laughter and applause amongst the crowd, particularly when he would leap off the horse, raise his arm and smile triumphantly. Though he seemed way too young to be doing this, he also seemed to love it. I don’t know the truth about it, but it was a great show nonetheless.</div><div align="justify" style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;"><br />
</div><div align="justify" style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;">After the show we headed to the first of two waterfalls we would see on the trip. The first, Jheongbangpokpo, is one of only a few waterfalls in the world that empties directly into the ocean. It was absolutely breathtaking. The sun was of the late-afternoon variety so the light was softer and shadows were cast upon the smoothed-out volcanic rock. Upon first sight, the view was reminiscent of those paradisal scenes in movies like The Blue Lagoon and The Sleeping Dictionary with the exception of 20 or so people already there admiring it.</div><div align="justify" style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;"> <table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmy3TSFN8Du9rD1t76UUBfnmkbbazVc9pVGb3KuZK2EImHJH9Bc1UjAZU2pTQICUAdjYbEXeUBEpup67XLgcIGF82v24u_T7FMxR9jrk0gEYu27CQsTVWHFkYOGUwGGXsixd3AbA/s1600-h/000023.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="" border="0" height="400" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5102299381627835762" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmy3TSFN8Du9rD1t76UUBfnmkbbazVc9pVGb3KuZK2EImHJH9Bc1UjAZU2pTQICUAdjYbEXeUBEpup67XLgcIGF82v24u_T7FMxR9jrk0gEYu27CQsTVWHFkYOGUwGGXsixd3AbA/s400/000023.JPG" style="float: left; margin: 0px 10px 10px 0px;" width="270" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Jheongbangpokpo</td></tr>
</tbody></table></div><div align="justify" style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;">We stayed there for a while and then headed off to another waterfall, Cheonjiyeonpokpo. This is the biggest waterfall on Jeju Island, but there wasn’t much water. The rainy season isn’t during spring here, but rather in the monsoonal summers. The waterfall is in the middle of a beautifully tended park which would be nice to visit regardless of the state of the waterfall. As it is currently the rainy season, it would probably be best to see this waterfall now.</div><div align="justify" style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;"></div><div align="justify" style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;">In the touristy part of the park I bought a summer bag made of cotton and dyed with onions, persimmons and wormwood. I’ve taken a picture. I also purchased a calligraphy made by a Buddhist monk. The man on the paintings was a well-known Buddhist wise man and the sayings are all related to finding happiness and well-being in your life. Pretty inspiring.</div><div align="justify" style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;"><br />
</div><div align="justify" style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;">Seung Ah insisted we go to the Sex Museum afterwards, so we did. Among the other drawings and things, they had pictures of natural formations from around the world shaped as genitals. The most interesting thing for me was a reproduction of a traditional Korea home long ago where houses were still made of papyrus, like in Japan. When newlyweds would retire to their honeymoon suites, people would sneak up outside and wet a finger with their tongue. Then they would place that wet spot on the papyrus which would dissolve, creating a tidy little hole from which they could watch their own little live porno show. It’s was hilarious! As conservative as Korea is, there are those moments when you are surprised by these little stories.</div><div align="justify" style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;"> </div><div align="justify" style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;"></div><div align="justify" style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;">After that busy afternoon, we were pretty hungry. We wanted to try some local food and the cab driver suggested we try horsemeat. Interestingly enough, I had spent 3 years in France and had never tried horsemeat though they sold them in supermarkets, but I was all for it here. Jeju Island is known for its horsemeat. We went to a restaurant that specialized in horsemeat and God help us, that’s all they served! We had the most insane experience! We ate everything they served us and believe me, they served us some pretty crazy things; from bone marrow tonics to raw vocal cords, raw liver and raw testicles (yes, you read correctly, and they were actually pretty good!).</div><div align="justify" style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;"></div><div align="justify" style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;"><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4t_PaNXlwEhbq1tozsnMbwGH8X0KuAOGnRfWYQOCqab5Qzo5J10JNMW4C69YTjeix4gOGRqxiSknGCSdq1cUDx0qyrmBYTNwXF1dpw53zOzN2vlluxz36zZzS15eD5xtm07llCA/s1600-h/000020.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="" border="0" height="270" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5102299879844042114" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4t_PaNXlwEhbq1tozsnMbwGH8X0KuAOGnRfWYQOCqab5Qzo5J10JNMW4C69YTjeix4gOGRqxiSknGCSdq1cUDx0qyrmBYTNwXF1dpw53zOzN2vlluxz36zZzS15eD5xtm07llCA/s400/000020.JPG" style="float: right; margin: 0px 0px 10px 10px;" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Our appetizer: raw horse pieces</td></tr>
</tbody></table></div><div align="justify" style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;"></div><div align="justify" style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;">Day 2</div><div align="justify" style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;"><br />
</div><div align="justify" style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;">On the second day there, we woke up at 6:15a.m. in order to get ready to hike up the tallest mountain in South Korea. This sucker is not a steep climb, but oh my God is it ever a bitch! For some reason I am still unable to understand, the trail we went up was lined with volcanic rock (by the way, Jeju is a volcanic island). So imagine hiking uphill for 4 ½ hours on a trail that is made up of craggy and sharp volcanic rock. What were they thinking?! If you ever go there, keep in mind that this is the Songpanak trail. I was cursing it the whole way up! When we got to the top we were soaked through with sweat, but the sense of accomplishment on reaching the summit was awesome. We could see three quarters of the island as well as the surrounding sea and that’s when I realized how small the island really is. In fact, Lonely Planet suggests that you take about 5 days and bike around the island. I’m not a biker, but in theory it sounds nice.</div><div align="justify" style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;"><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7RhQ5evVA2c2CDuFReN3J17DkOOT-SuFLnsoeTs8Blrc00New7MayHTEnA1e9UXs-obIWATp5_jbJ7yPjsX_BgMbIpaOwn2cPQeRSd-kRewWxrtPJeFP7UtFPhroOReO7fbf8Jg/s1600-h/000015.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="" border="0" height="400" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5102300494024365458" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7RhQ5evVA2c2CDuFReN3J17DkOOT-SuFLnsoeTs8Blrc00New7MayHTEnA1e9UXs-obIWATp5_jbJ7yPjsX_BgMbIpaOwn2cPQeRSd-kRewWxrtPJeFP7UtFPhroOReO7fbf8Jg/s400/000015.JPG" style="float: left; margin: 0px 10px 10px 0px;" width="270" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Finally survived the hike!</td></tr>
</tbody></table></div><div align="justify" style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;"><br />
</div><div align="justify" style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;">After a simple meal we were pretty beat, so we decided to head back down. This time we took another trail down which was actually even harder on the legs because, by then, we were so weak that each step jarred the knees, put stress on the ankles and forced us to rest on the way down in order to stabilize our shaking legs. It took us another 3 hours to get down. Every time we though we were done, there was another slope to go down and even some uphill moments every time we exited a ravine. We were practically crying from exhaustion by the time we got back to the entrance of the park.</div><div align="justify" style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;"><br />
</div><div align="justify" style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;">It was 4pm by then and a new cab driver picked us up taking us to a place called mysterious road. This is a road that seems to be going downhill, but when you stop the car, it seems to be rolling backward up the hill! It’s a pretty cool optical illusion. After that little hiatus, the driver told us that Mini Mini Land was a worthwhile trip. We were so tired we just let him take us. That was probably the only regret I have about the trip. This place is like a Legoland except for the fact that the buildings aren’t made of Lego. Definitely not something you want to walk through after having hiked for 8 hours.</div><div align="justify" style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;"><br />
</div><div align="justify" style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;">After that walk-through was abbreviated (I could barely walk, regardless of the fact that I was grinning through it), we headed to Songsan Illchulbong, hands down my favorite place in Jeju. It is a small coastal town and we stayed in a minbak there (the Korean name for apartment style rooms with their own kitchens). It’s the Korean equivalent of a bed and breakfast. Below the minbak was a restaurant and, for lack of interest or ability to walk far, we had dinner there. We were the only customers, but I had the best broiled fish of my entire life in that place. It was mackerel and it just melted in my mouth. I’ve eaten it since returning to Seoul, but have yet to taste one as good as the one on Jeju Island (it could also have been the fatigue rendering me delirious, but I doubt it). We also had a seafood soup and I ate my first sea snail in its shell. The shell was so beautiful that I adopted it. It tastes like lambi (conch). We also had what was my first taste of Raspberry wine (bokbuncha). It’s very sweet, but quite good. Later that night we crawled into bed and fell into an exhausted sleep, knowing we would have to get up at the crack of dawn the next day and hike up a crater.</div><div align="justify" style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;"><br />
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</div><div align="justify" style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;">Day 3</div><div align="justify" style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;"><br />
</div><div align="justify" style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;">We woke up at 4:45a.m., slipped on our clothes and hobbled up the quiet, dark streets towards the looming mountain. We were in so much pain, but you know what they say. Get back on the horse. Songsan Illchulbong is known for its spectacular sunrises. The idea is to get to the top of this mountain crater and watch the sun rise, hence the early start up the mountain. What was good about this place is that they have placed steps the whole way up and it’s a fairly small mountain, in comparison to Halla mountain. But imagine the pain we were in as we walked up flights of stairs for about 30 minutes. All the adjumas (middle-aged women) and adjoshis (middle-aged men) were speeding by us. It was as though we had exchanged bodies for that walk up there.</div><div align="justify" style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;"><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img alt="" border="0" height="270" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5102301301478217122" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdXydxB6fG48WcI4SvJsZ6iw-ZNoZl3i055FBoPx0Cc32zEmmDBQfvRkmGtiyAyyhy11OGRPDjDl_S8l7tAcm2j92KFull5uFyJuZ-ArH3JAa-C57m_gI_4Y37jriWTYO27mv6uA/s400/000017.JPG" style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center;" width="400" /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">View from Songsan Illchulbong</td></tr>
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Unfortunately, the sky was too cloudy to see the sun rise, but there was a peace and a beauty on the top of that mountain that I’ll never forget. We could even see Halla mountain, the mountain we had climbed the day before, in the distance. It made the trip and the pain and fatigue completely worth it. We stayed up there for a while before finally headed back. This was our last day here and we wanted to make the best of it.<br />
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We returned to the minbak, took a nap and then headed out to the pier where we took a ferry to Udo Island (Cow Island). This island is an absolute pearl. Absolutely beautiful and pristine. By then it had started to drizzle (our luck had held until that time). The bus tours going around the island were a bit disorganized and there didn’t seem to be any maps of the island, but the drivers were dynamic and funny (Seung Ah was my translator during the whole trip to Jeju, bless her!).<br />
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There are three main beaches that Udo is known for. On that small island they have a black sand beach, a white sand beach and a coral beach. When we got to the coral beach we didn’t understand why it was called this, but we were told that during high tide when the sun is shining, the water takes on a coral color from the crushed coral/sand floor. We were a bit disappointed because we didn’t get a chance to see that.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuAqG1K50WpqinDVcDP-WlWaiOPS35daQfeLWP9LqIus7CqKs-EsT6hMQWA4NvWrXjXfTyEJ-HnamtSBPgJN_7GVhmf9qiHGAqUaYETBSDS8HwgRWSYlspp8kHGaoAByWo_mduOA/s1600-h/000008.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="" border="0" height="270" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5102301773924619698" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuAqG1K50WpqinDVcDP-WlWaiOPS35daQfeLWP9LqIus7CqKs-EsT6hMQWA4NvWrXjXfTyEJ-HnamtSBPgJN_7GVhmf9qiHGAqUaYETBSDS8HwgRWSYlspp8kHGaoAByWo_mduOA/s400/000008.JPG" style="float: right; margin: 0px 0px 10px 10px;" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Haenyos resting</td></tr>
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The best part of this trip was the haenyos. Haenyos are part of the history of Jeju and Udo Islands. These are among the hardest working women in the history of this country. Traditionally, only women could become haenyos, or free divers. They would dive for fish and shellfish and could hold their breath for up to two minutes. Over the last 50 years, women have stopped carrying on the tradition and have opted for jobs that are less difficult. As a result, the only haenyos left these days are in their 50s or more. They are still diving. We saw a whole group up them under a gazebo; resting I guess. There must have been a good 40 of them. It was so exciting to see these legendary women in their wetsuits, with their masks on their heads. Later on, we were even luckier to see them working! They were splashing about in the water, the flippers making flapping noises as they reached for the seafloor.<br />
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After seeing that, (which was my reason for wanting to come to the island), we headed back to the ferry. By then it had started to rain steadily and heavily. We had an uninspiring lunch of seasoned galbi from a black pig (grilled pork; I’ve eaten way better in Seoul; I think it’s safe to say that if you go to Jeju, focus on the horsemeat and the seafood; don’t bother with the rest). I did get a chance to try yet another new thing that afternoon, an alcoholic drink called mackoli. It is made from rice and some kind of corn meal, I think. In any case, I wasn’t crazy about it because it tasted similar to beer, which has that bitter starchy taste. For those beer lovers, you should enjoy this.<br />
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After lunch, we went to a traditional Korean village which has existed for over 400 years. People still live in these villages and keep them in beautiful shape, offering to give free visits in exchange for your willingness to buy something from their little store. I was all for that. The folk-village was called Song-Eup and it was beautiful. It was raining quite steadily and we were given umbrellas for the trip. There we saw the legendary Harubang, which are statues dating back over 250 years that are spread out throughout the island of Jeju. The harubangs’ purpose is a bit of a mystery. They are quite reminiscent of the Easter Island sculptures. People don’t know why they were made, but they are really cute and the theory is that if you touch the nose of a harubang, you will have a boy. If you touch its ear, you will have a girl. It is also said that the harubangs that have their right hand placed above their left represent government workers and the educated population. The ones with the left hand over the right represented the warriors. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrKAxdZ-Wm2dvCkFAJTOXelM1ac1oFC5txM4M_dESKRLHZooOEsENmFqLg6-DJvECJvd2hMpRZfv3BVz4Cbw-KWyYMTJQ0qrfEYNTXAdNTupRxQOTDzcLiUjhWA6IrpldiNi6BGQ/s1600-h/000018.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="" border="0" height="270" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5102302276435793346" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrKAxdZ-Wm2dvCkFAJTOXelM1ac1oFC5txM4M_dESKRLHZooOEsENmFqLg6-DJvECJvd2hMpRZfv3BVz4Cbw-KWyYMTJQ0qrfEYNTXAdNTupRxQOTDzcLiUjhWA6IrpldiNi6BGQ/s400/000018.JPG" style="float: left; margin: 0px 10px 10px 0px;" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Harubangs</td></tr>
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I gladly bought something from the store, a concentrated form of tea syrup that you’re supposed to mix with hot or cold water. It is called Omidjacha, or 5 flavors tea. It’s delicious: sweet and tart at the same time. It’s supposedly good for colds too. I’ve been drinking it cold, very refreshing!<br />
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After the folk village we headed to Stone Park. By then the rain was lashing away at us and our pants and jeans were soaked through, but we pushed on and into a beautiful world of ancient rock croppings and volcanic remnants. It was very green and very peaceful and interestingly enough, the rain meant that there were few people there and so I felt as though I had stepped into an enchanted land, devoid of others save Seung Ah; a world a thousand years old. It was really magical. We went to the Rock Museum there, but unless you are into geology, I wouldn’t recommend it. There was a lot of focus on the volcanic history of the island and the age of the rocks etc… Those of you Discovery Channel fanatics would probably love this, but it was a bit boring for me. I love science, but I prefer living things.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDRi88mh0mdaWe0gFtX_ZT_mYBpymINzeSvOATM2twPOWlsGYYfuJnryn0As9IAUTo7C8RADqzk-9cVUL951IDbW5jlqqaTZhRea9aMc_QEEIYq_kMtym5AFycnTsX9Le8Adz_bQ/s1600-h/000035.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="" border="0" height="270" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5102302611443242450" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDRi88mh0mdaWe0gFtX_ZT_mYBpymINzeSvOATM2twPOWlsGYYfuJnryn0As9IAUTo7C8RADqzk-9cVUL951IDbW5jlqqaTZhRea9aMc_QEEIYq_kMtym5AFycnTsX9Le8Adz_bQ/s400/000035.JPG" style="float: right; margin: 0px 0px 10px 10px;" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Stone Park</td></tr>
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After leaving the Rock Museum and Stone Park, we headed to the Manjanggul, an underground lava tube. It was really cool but the steps going down were really hard on us because of the pain that we continued to experience. The pictures I’ve taken didn’t turn out so well because I didn’t bring my big flash with me, but hopefully you’ll get an idea of what it’s like to be walking through where lava once flowed. The ground and walls had smooth and rough grooves running through them and there was quite a bit of explanation as to what the different kinds of lava flows were called. I didn’t know there were different names, but I’m here to inform you that yes indeed, there are! I think I probably would have enjoyed it more if we hadn’t been so exhausted and in so much pain, but I’m really happy we got to go.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZdn7itD2-KH_YIxE0FkaKB9idmbigMXWbGOMjPkA9W2MXDpEx28nJ-gOx76yRmpgXJMt5wK5BJ81Lo-Vam39Y1F7wtNtJPuEm7sFtWb2jiWMCmRMeFhUz8WIZ4_m3FGiJD1EKbg/s1600-h/Jeju9.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="" border="0" height="270" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5102303092479579618" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZdn7itD2-KH_YIxE0FkaKB9idmbigMXWbGOMjPkA9W2MXDpEx28nJ-gOx76yRmpgXJMt5wK5BJ81Lo-Vam39Y1F7wtNtJPuEm7sFtWb2jiWMCmRMeFhUz8WIZ4_m3FGiJD1EKbg/s400/Jeju9.jpg" style="float: left; margin: 0px 10px 10px 0px;" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Manjanggul: striations left by a lava flow</td></tr>
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We returned to Seoul that night and had an extra day off the next day to sleep and stretch. Just to let you know, my legs, especially my calves, were on fire for a week after that trip. I’ll never climb that mountain again! ;)<br />
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If you ever go to Jeju Island, a word of advice, climb Halla mountain on your last day; this will help you avoid being in pain for the rest of the trip.<br />
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P.S. Check out these pictures and another album full of pictures from our day in Everland, the most famous amusement park in South Korea. I went with Seung Ah, Jong In and Jae Jin. It was a blast. There are tons of pictures of this trip. Jae Jin went on a shooting spree! </div>Lhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07266164231840295693noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-34194462.post-34352924643671753922007-07-29T17:52:00.000+09:002007-07-30T11:08:18.109+09:00A City of Beauty and Culture<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKQ4QrnAMdtp2AXjIWuVQY9Q8J7KCM0pzCMLmI5InrlVQXoI8ejFqLx5fRBie6p8nlWyk1javnq8CWK7dBMNPWzDBTJ70HVpZfrtIZlIbNBrB0dfg5XkSTEFIc2WloJYhFzRzx7A/s1600-h/000007.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5092804266285600818" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKQ4QrnAMdtp2AXjIWuVQY9Q8J7KCM0pzCMLmI5InrlVQXoI8ejFqLx5fRBie6p8nlWyk1javnq8CWK7dBMNPWzDBTJ70HVpZfrtIZlIbNBrB0dfg5XkSTEFIc2WloJYhFzRzx7A/s320/000007.JPG" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><div align="justify">In March, I was excited to check out the Cherry Blossom festival in Youido, an island in the middle of the Han River in Seoul. I was dissuaded from going during the festival as it would be too crowded, but I was determined to go anyway. As fate would have it, I ended up being too sick to go during the festival and had to wait until after it to go. Son Mi, Jae Jin and I went on the Sunday after the festival was over. It was a beautiful warm sunny afternoon and the trees were covered in delicate white flowers bruised with pink blushes. It was a sight to see (click on the Kodak Gallery link to see more pictures). It was a wonderful day followed by a delicious lunch a 20 minute walk away.<br /><br />Seoul is a humongous city chock full of cultural stimulation, if you know where to look. Unfortunately, I often miss the opportunities because the tickets are sold out or I’ve found out too late.<br /><br />But I have been lucky enough to catch a few awesome things. Here they are:<br /><br />Thanks to Jong In, one of the close friends I’ve made here, I was told about a Rene Magritte exhibit in downtown Seoul. I knew of Magritte because of the famous bowler hat paintings he had made. I was excited to see what else he had to offer. There was a lot. What an amazing man; so much symbolism in his art and the mixture of surrealism and symbolism reminded me of Dali’s work (which I had seen much of outside of Barcelona back in 2005). It was totally worth the trip.<br /></div><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5092805520416051282" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: hand; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhT_AIArnSYRmYrhUP_2A7_CajMw2KPt0MShrzGcqFmngnu_4ZGtt3R-a8SLprLCOMTuLlCVex_psfdeEMfQeg8wtru3VesBQEbhOzX2lnvX8PIV9NCu3csRMye6DL3VVUYtpUa3A/s320/000011.JPG" border="0" /> <p align="justify"><br />Just a few days later I had the chance to see the Cirque du Soleil in all of its glory. I remember thinking to myself that it was funny that I had lived in Montreal for over 3 years, just steps away from the original Cirque, only to watch it for the first time half way around the world. The production was called Quidam, a wonderful mix of fantasy fit for children, comedy that was international in its humor, and acrobatics that left my mouth open in amazement. The beauty of Cirque du Soleil is the fact that there are no words and therefore no need to translate or adapt the shows to the different cultures. If any of you have the opportunity to see any of the Cirque du Soleil productions, I highly recommend it.<br /><br />On June 24th, I went with Jong In and Son Mi to see a Korean musical. It is called Subway Line Number 1. It is the longest running musical in South Korea, having existed for about 15 years. Twice a week they have the show subtitled in English so we went on a Sunday evening. The show is actually a rock musical and you could see the musicians behind translucent screens in the background as the actors and singers performed for us. It was an awesome show and I’m glad that I saw it after I had been here for a while. I think it would have been a mistake to see it right away as I would have missed a lot of the subtleties of the humor in reference to the Korean culture. As it was, I laughed quite a bit and it was really cool. It ran a bit long, but I would definitely recommend it.<br /><br />Last weekend I went to see the Orsay exhibit. Though I lived in France for three years and had been to the Louvre, I hadn’t had the opportunity to go to the Orsay museum in Paris. So, it came to me here! There were fewer paintings than I had expected, but the paintings that were there were definitely worth it. There were paintings from Van Gogh, Manet and Monet, but the best part was my discovery of some new artists. I fell in love with some of the paintings by Albert Bartholome (Dans la Serre), James Tissot ( Le Bal), Henri-Edmond Cross (L’air du soir), Paul Signac (Femmes au Puits) and Odilon Redon (Portrait d’Ari Redon au Col Marin). The colors and the pointillism movement which I had heard about but had yet to see live, were breaths of fresh air that I had badly needed. Check these out when you get a chance and let me know your own thoughts. </p>Lhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07266164231840295693noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-34194462.post-77112700489471100692007-04-24T09:56:00.000+09:002007-04-24T10:01:48.661+09:00Fortunes and Futures Part 1<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2wL8rhdN3sN4HKXNeplqaiVSk-oy5GoUlrxGpLuByOR2mcJ6UWTtiUU4Gi01nRax2PbfJRG4P5uIKQDpFA1FVktPcFV6I5zxVDH3u6T7zbBHP6Messf8kB1AgXhBtMzDV-_bkRQ/s1600-h/000036.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5056792947670816034" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2wL8rhdN3sN4HKXNeplqaiVSk-oy5GoUlrxGpLuByOR2mcJ6UWTtiUU4Gi01nRax2PbfJRG4P5uIKQDpFA1FVktPcFV6I5zxVDH3u6T7zbBHP6Messf8kB1AgXhBtMzDV-_bkRQ/s200/000036.JPG" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><div align="justify">About one week after Solal weekend, Seung Ah took me to my first fortuneteller! I’ve always wanted to go to one, but I’ve never had enough money and was always wondering whether it was worth it. This experience was very interesting. He wasn’t a fortuneteller per se, instead he did Chinese fortunetelling which is basically mathematical. He asked for my date and time of birth and with that gave me information about my past, my present and my future.<br /><br />I’ll let you decide whether he’s any good. Here are his predictions about me.<br /><br /><em><strong>My Past:</strong> </em><br /><br />- He thought I moved or changed jobs in 2005<br />- I haven’t had a boyfriend since 2005<br />- I started to try to make money on my own since 2002 and I didn’t have any real financial trouble<br />- The financial trouble I perceived I had stemmed from the fact that I was unwilling to accept help from my parents so that’s why I struggled<br />- I had some trouble in 2006<br />- I was fated to leave my home in Haiti<br />- I have had bad luck with men<br /><br /><strong><em>Who I am/My Present:</em></strong><br /><br />- I’m good at managing and teaching; I’m good at conveying information to others<br />- I have a hard time getting close to men<br />- I have a strong sense of justice, but society has a hard time following me<br />- I have a strong personality and I need to control my environment<br />- I don’t want to have children unless I’m in a stable relationship<br />- I’m more interested in happiness than in money<br />- My luck is described by two seasons: Summer and Spring<br />o Positive, active personality<br />- I’m eager to learn and to work<br />- When I meet a guy, I push him away, that’s why it’s difficult for me to be in a serious relationship<br />- Being a teacher is a good job for me<br /><br /><br /><strong><em>My Future:<br /></em></strong><br />- I won’t have a boyfriend in 2007, but my luck with men will slowly improve in the coming years<br />- I’ll meet a new group of people this year<br />- I’ll be studying and will keep learning things for the rest of my life but I won’t get any recognition for it from outside sources<br />- In 2008-2009 I’ll have a good man and boyfriend in my life, but it will only last for two years<br />- In 2012-2013 I will meet the man of my life and will ‘marry’ him (keep in mind that in Korea, living with someone implies that you are married because it is not acceptable to live with someone without being married)<br />- The boyfriends I will have in the future will be friends who will develop into more because I have a hard time getting close to men<br />- I’ll be traveling a lot in my life; journalism is a good job for me; I’ll never stay in one place for long<br />- I’ll be changing jobs every 2-3 years because it is what I will wish to do<br />- I’ll have financial luck in the future<br />- By the age of 40, I’ll be dissatisfied with my job and will have many offers with different companies that I will refuse because they will not mirror the kind of life I will want<br />- I will have kids, but I won’t want to depend on men<br />- I’ll have some problems with my colon and my joints and lungs, but nothing serious<br />- I’ll be traveling my whole life<br />- I’ll live a long life<br /><br />So guys, what do you think? The only extra information I gave him about him was the fact that I came from Haiti. I also objected to his statement about my finances in my past. I found that a lot of the things he told me about my past were not accurate and I told him that I did have financial trouble and that’s when he added the bit on how it was because I refused help from my parents. He also knew that I teach here and that I want to be a journalist, but I didn’t tell him about all the traveling I’ve done nor about the traveling I wish to do in the future.<br /><br />I didn’t tell him a word about me and my relationships so that came purely from him.<br /><br />It was quite interesting all in all. I’m not sure I felt as though he was the real deal, but to be fair, he wasn’t quite the fortuneteller with a glass ball etc. He used the Chinese astrology counting system so he did a whole bunch of calculations and this is a field that people study, not that they are naturally born with. In addition, the fortunetelling was done in a brightly lit café where people order drinks and chat with chill music in the background…not at all the dark dingy little corner room I was expecting. I know, I know, I’m a bit on the overly creative side of things.<br /><br />So I leave it up to you to decide what you think of what he said based on what you know about me. Seung Ah will take me to a palm reader she knows in the near future. I’m curious to compare both people’s prognoses about me. How similar or how completely different will they be? In addition, I’d be really interested in delving into the more obscure and naturally psychic world of fortunetelling to see what those people, with the natural talent, will have to say about me. Are they mind readers, do they really sense something from another world? Are they pulling things out of their asses? What’s the deal? I hope you enjoyed my little experiment. Tune in next time for Part 2 of Fortunes and Futures.<br /><br />Love,<br /><br />L </div>Lhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07266164231840295693noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-34194462.post-27871199699746742002007-04-24T09:15:00.000+09:002007-04-24T09:38:43.241+09:00Solal Weekend - February 2007<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtxiU020BzpF01X_nvBlRrJGBIbAugO3TbZhyFpdCaaR3KWGDQUw87KJsydAslZs02pWSYs5oc3XzSeVOTx5B0KYbv1WYSpL9iyDJrveoQiCxm3Wmwdp-UwpK53S5jQ7E-pXSD3w/s1600-h/000013.JPG"></a><br /><br /><div align="justify"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIRlLHc1KgSyJJCGGh8xhq6CVQ29He3H05-9bqTmI0RoXEwhAZES7D9G-ORkbR-wTM0G4QXohn67HAd_qsCVkryG2fI7U_hxvXOK_rprSlbiNQWBr1AKndx5B5k2oqXrleLvKhYQ/s1600-h/000026.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5056784877427266802" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIRlLHc1KgSyJJCGGh8xhq6CVQ29He3H05-9bqTmI0RoXEwhAZES7D9G-ORkbR-wTM0G4QXohn67HAd_qsCVkryG2fI7U_hxvXOK_rprSlbiNQWBr1AKndx5B5k2oqXrleLvKhYQ/s200/000026.JPG" border="0" /></a> It has been an eternity, I know. I apologize. I would like to announce that I bought my first computer about a month ago and I’m extremely proud of myself. This is the first time I have been able to purchase something such as this with my own hard earned money. I have arrived! I am an adult! Yeehah!<br /><br />So I write this on my new HP laptop and it is sweet. It took me a while to get down to the nitty gritty of writing this because I had a computer but no Microsoft Office which I have just recently acquired. Goodbye Notepad!<br /><br />The subjects of interest this time around will give you an overload of cool stuff to digest. As most of you know, the Lunar New Year usually occurs around February of every year. My Korean students all looked at me quizzically when I asked them what they planned to do for the Chinese New Year. They didn’t know what I was talking about. You see how we Westerns are so ignorant in so many ways? What was I doing saying the "Chinese New Year"? It’s the Lunar New Year and yet in the west we merely associate it to China because we know more about their culture and Japan’s than any other culture in Asia. In Korea, it is called <em><strong>Solal</strong></em> and we got to have a four day weekend.<br /><br />I hadn’t had any intellectual stimulation for a while at that point and decided to get my act together and do something different. I booked a tour for the DMZ (demilitarized zone) which separates North Korea from South Korea. It was a half-day tour instead of the full-day I had initially wanted, but interesting nonetheless.<br /><br />To be honest, I had expected to get to the point where you see the South Korean and North Korean guards staring each other down. I was not able to get as close as that. We were actually fairly far away from North Korea and could only catch a glimpse of it in the distance. The experience here was not so much seeing North Korea, but rather all the lengths both governments go through to kind of keep you away from North Korea. I have thought somewhat seriously about visiting North Korea, under no illusions about how controlled the visit would be. I was naïve, however, about the DMZ trip. I thought that by being on the South Korean side things would be a bit more lax. I suppose that, in theory, this is true however things were so incredibly restricted that many times we were wondering what we could possibly take pictures of that would be compromising.<br /><br />Let me breakdown the weekend for you. The holiday lasted from Friday the 16th of February to Monday the 19th of February included. On that Friday morning I had to wake up at 6:30 to get to the pick-up spot for my DMZ trip. We drove roughly an hour north of Seoul and stopped at an area where the Freedom Bridge is located. This is a bridge that used to be the only access road between North and South Korea. At the end of this bridge is a fence where Koreans and foreigners alike have posted notes of peace and love in light of the situation between the two sides of this divided nation. Under the bridge was a little park where people could sit. In the distance we could see that a family had set up a shrine to which they were praying. The tour guide mentioned that many families would come here to pray for displaced or missing family members from the Korean War. In addition, Solal is the period in the year when people honor the family members who have passed away. This holiday, along with Chuseok, is the most important in terms of family gatherings.<br /></div><div align="justify"><br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg63hFet7vQbdBtFEqjNIMT3dGF3g-UTirFs6u3OX_KF0KGF40hb7GC9m0NHw855rGQzMcZj2M_DiWzOI-p7Z88E2oGqQm2qO4P9U9bB23bxwkaQ9VMm6yeNwhVY0BtmqceVQB_eA/s1600-h/000018.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5056783438613222594" style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg63hFet7vQbdBtFEqjNIMT3dGF3g-UTirFs6u3OX_KF0KGF40hb7GC9m0NHw855rGQzMcZj2M_DiWzOI-p7Z88E2oGqQm2qO4P9U9bB23bxwkaQ9VMm6yeNwhVY0BtmqceVQB_eA/s200/000018.JPG" border="0" /></a>After the Freedom Bridge, we went to an area where we saw a video about the divided nation. It was so commercial and so ‘Western’ that I had no doubts the Americans had helped them develop the video. It was a bit on the cheesy side, to be honest. We then walked through an area where we could read about different situations that had occurred between the two Koreas, the conflicts and plots the North Korean government had to build and eventually attack and overtake South Korea through a series of tunnels. Four tunnels have been discovered up to today, the most recent having been discovered less than ten years ago. People have no idea how many other tunnels may exist. We had an opportunity to go down into one of the tunnels but we couldn’t take any pictures. You could see holes in the walls from dynamite which had been set off to create the tunnel. It was wet and cold down there and fairly interesting.<br /><br />After the tunnel, we went to <strong><em>Dorasan</em></strong>, a mountain that overlooks North Korea. There was a beautiful view and we had a soldier give us a little presentation. We were not allowed to take pictures from inside, but could from the balcony. But, there is a catch. You could only take pictures from behind the yellow line. You guys, the yellow line was about 5 meters behind the edge of the balcony. It was a joke! The only thing you can see from there is the North Korean mountain range. It was so funny that I took a picture of the line so that you could get an idea how ridiculous it was. But again, that’s part of the experience.<br /><br />After Dora Mountain, we went to Dora Station, the last train station in South Korea, which in theory should connect both parts of the country if and when they are ready to re-merge. The station is beautiful, but empty. It’s pretty useless for the moment. Over there is a picture of the former South Korean president and President Bush who are both inaugurating the station. I took a picture of that picture. Look closely at it, there is something odd in the picture. I look forward to getting news from you to see who has found the oddity.<br /><br /><br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1BR9DoSGEKrgTjMCQiUDP8NmEPoe4VxpOT5MNEsi-q9mQwdEGvFSzu34szisyWhL29CAFjDoAmzAobL67E6LuU9NCAkPIPAVURy5TzHQzwYZy0YvZlyZs54CaO9sAPeD0R-CSFA/s1600-h/000009.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5056784400685896914" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1BR9DoSGEKrgTjMCQiUDP8NmEPoe4VxpOT5MNEsi-q9mQwdEGvFSzu34szisyWhL29CAFjDoAmzAobL67E6LuU9NCAkPIPAVURy5TzHQzwYZy0YvZlyZs54CaO9sAPeD0R-CSFA/s200/000009.JPG" border="0" /></a>The next day, I met up with one of the guys from the tour and one of the teachers from YBM and we went to see an awesome traditional sport: <strong><em>Ssirreum</em></strong>, Korean style wrestling. It was really interesting. An interesting and strange thing: the wrestling is separated into only two weight categories: under 100kgs and over 100kgs. So you ended up seeing someone who was 110kgs wrestling against someone who was 160kgs. That’s a huge difference! An interesting twist to Korean wrestling is that each player has a piece of twisted cloth that is wrapped around his waist and thigh. The opposing player can use only that twisted cloth to throw his opponent. This means that they cannot touch their opponent with their hands. They are required to hook their hands in the cloth and hold on to that and to use that grip to throw his opponent down. This is a very difficult system and it was really cool to watch. There was entertainment between each set where North Korean dancers performed for the audience. It was interesting to see and listen to traditional North Korean entertainment. There was a particular dance called the 4 Seasons where the women changed the colors of their clothes in front of our eyes! I know that there is an explanation to it all, but they would go behind a wall of girls and come back out in different colors. I don’t know how they managed.<br /><br />At the end of the competition, the winner received some money and a traditional gift, a cow. In the past, cows were given to the winners. Normally the winner would ride on the cow but seeing as this was a calf, he couldn’t possibly do that. He was placed on a throne and was carried around by six high school boys who were very obviously suffering from the weight. It was pretty cute, actually. They were so out of it!<br /><br />After the competition, Seung Hyon and I went to meet up with some of the other girls at <strong><em>Doksu Palace</em></strong>, another one of the oldest palaces located in Seoul, where we hung around. Afterwards, we went to have dinner in Itaewon (the foreign neighborhood), where we dined at a nice Thai restaurant. Some of them had never eaten Thai before. It was a success. After dinner, we went to <strong><em>Namsan Tower</em></strong>, the Korean equivalent of the CN Tower or the tower in Seattle. We took a cab up the mountain and it was all lit up. The lights were changing on the tower and it was absolutely beautiful. We watched the view from the top of this mountain and it was priceless.<br /><br /><br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjp8ZpfMlhx1INWIPXKoIEfdTD9Pi1Air8rkbK1-Yxg0quWJbCYeybsLwNxT1inycc39JtbrGSkaXI_1QsLrzdsGGZsHyZljsSYSb-tAFBDrMeXOdRdUvKUXVpXwsosdi-Ygrh31Q/s1600-h/000013.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5056785938284188946" style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjp8ZpfMlhx1INWIPXKoIEfdTD9Pi1Air8rkbK1-Yxg0quWJbCYeybsLwNxT1inycc39JtbrGSkaXI_1QsLrzdsGGZsHyZljsSYSb-tAFBDrMeXOdRdUvKUXVpXwsosdi-Ygrh31Q/s200/000013.JPG" border="0" /></a>All of Seoul was spread out before us and we could see the Han River weaving through the multi-colored lights. Afterwards we walked down to the spot where we were to take the cable car down the mountain and we walked by something quite fascinating. You know the smoke signal system from Lord of the Rings? Well, Korea had the same system in the past. They had a set of smoke signals spread throughout the country for the same reasons. I took a picture of the historical information about that. You can read it if you’d like.<br /><br />So that was my Solal weekend! Enjoy the pictures on Kodak Gallery!</div>Lhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07266164231840295693noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-34194462.post-25443148484416862802007-04-19T18:11:00.000+09:002007-04-24T17:16:23.392+09:00March and April: Spring Fever<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXsuWX6imC5N-i7MTXGjPs6x44sUO6iTUoPhP_9ewq2PFkyFpq4CJCb46VMa2EkggyVTyYlnnD40JWxQf-U5APNvJ_TDiUGNdl903KUj_VSxMTz5Ea2fIslprVKD28lOi2UT0hFw/s1600-h/000037.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5055426456580953218" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXsuWX6imC5N-i7MTXGjPs6x44sUO6iTUoPhP_9ewq2PFkyFpq4CJCb46VMa2EkggyVTyYlnnD40JWxQf-U5APNvJ_TDiUGNdl903KUj_VSxMTz5Ea2fIslprVKD28lOi2UT0hFw/s200/000037.JPG" border="0" /></a><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgusw9oWw_1iPGUOibygjB9-Xe555c7v01B8A5nIX3c7WNoIt6FcG6he0TQx_4-h7ZiDVMFU2A8ET6bl4o7dM-vzfVCGVXdX-pbvrIi3cKnAGkzNneaFNorr1hQcHZEzFTFmXtVgw/s1600-h/000037.JPG"></a><br /><br /><div align="justify">The month of March was a busy one, filled with work and a sense that things were just going from bad to worse. Throat infections have emerged, relationships have disintegrated and the pace of life has become work, home, sleep, work, home, sleep. Quite the monotonous lifestyle. My first four months here were pure heaven, typical of travels. I’ve experienced this in almost every new place I’ve been to. 2006, a year which had been so unhappy for me, seemed to end on a beautiful note. I had a new country, culture and language to sharpen my teeth on and my experiences continued to be beautiful. I maintain those impressions of Korea.<br /><br />Of course, it is not perfect. There are aspects to the culture that I think I will always have a hard time dealing with. Those include the incredible rudeness people display in crowds. Apologies are non-existent 95% of the time so you just have to bite your lip and move on. Though in the West I would immediately demand an apology, regardless of the person’s age if they pushed me or cut me off in line, here I’m learning to keep my mouth shut and it is a difficult lesson for me to learn. I don’t want to be the abrasive foreigner who comes to a new country and expects everybody to be and act the way I do. The Koreans themselves don’t say anything when these things happen to them so I follow their example, though it pains me to do it.<br /><br />I have, however, started to put my foot down when it comes to my apartment building. When people make too much noise after midnight on a weekday and that noise continues for long periods of time, I have decided to knock on their doors and ask them to keep it down. They don’t often open their doors, but they keep it down afterwards. That’s all I want, really.<br /><br />But I think that this problem stems from an immense city with a large population. Saying sorry to strangers seems to be too much to ask because that would mean that you would have to constantly apologize and I definitely think that Confucious had a say in this attitude as well, especially when regarding how the elders treat younger people.<br /><br />As I’ve mentioned before, however, once you get to know these people, they make a 180 degree change. They become the sweetest and most generous people I’ve ever met. It is a strange and sometimes confusing country to live in. But I don’t regret a minute of it.<br /><br />Interestingly enough, my biggest issues and problems here have revolved around, not the Koreans, but the foreigners. I have had more drama in one month with foreigners than I have had in 8 months with Koreans. Yes, that’s right. I’m in my 8th month here. Crazy, right? Time flies.<br /><br />I never thought about it in quite this way before, but in the end, most relationships have a shelf life. I had made some friends with whom I thought I’d be close and form a strong bond. But each of those relationships reached their expiration dates, much to my dismay and I had to re-evaluate my status here.<br /><br />I have been able to count on the Korean women at work. They are awesome. We go out to see movies together. We have lunches and dinners and last weekend, we even went to Yoido, an island on the Han River where the cherry blossoms are in bloom. It was a beautifully sunny and warm day and we strolled along the avenue taking pictures of these trees. We then went to have lunch together followed by some frozen yogurt in yet another part of Seoul. It’s such a huge city!<br /><br />And though I love these friends, there is a point which you cannot cross. The kind of intimacy of conversation that I was able to have with my friends in the West, I cannot have here. There are some invisible barriers that are erected that are not wise to cross. When people have problems here, they tend to keep it to themselves. When they talk about relationships, they give the absolute minimum information and then the conversation is over. And you know how talkative and analytical I am. I need to talk things to death in order to deal with problems. These are the types of issues I’ve been dealing with. Nothing too serious, but a definite sense of solitude that I will have to adjust to. Traveling is wonderful. Exploring a new world is pure magic, but along with those wondrous experiences also come the more sobering aspects of adjusting to a culture not your own. It is a humbling experience that never fails to keep me on the right track.<br /><br />But separate from the challenges of a new cultures are the challenges that people face around the world, in any situation, at any time. And that is the shelf life theory of relationships.<br /><br />A person recently told me that he no longer wanted to know me. He merely crossed me off his list. This is the first time anyone has ever wanted to eliminate me from their lives in such a way. It was a very difficult thing to swallow. I started to question myself as a result of his words. I was in shock, wondering how someone could think that I’m such a bad and mean person that they would not want me in their lives anymore. A friend gave me a figurative slap in the face. He became almost impatient with me as he told me that I should not even question my worth or myself as a person. And he’s right. He was part two of my wake-up call. Part one was a lovely Australian friend who let me ramble on until there were no more words. And he reassured me that my honesty, though perhaps a bit difficult to hear at times, is what makes me the person that I am. I have never hidden who I am. I am an open book and those that choose to ignore that side of me will do so to their detriment. I have nothing to apologize for. I have never set out to hurt others and that is a creed that I have promised to uphold. When someone asks for the truth, they must be prepared to hear my version of it as I must be when I ask it of others. So, I have to thank these lovely people in my life; people with whom I see no expiration date: thanks to Ben and Steve.<br /><br />It is always a humbling experience when others indicate that their ideas of your worth fall far below your own perceptions of your worth. It is definitely important to listen to others and try to understand peoples’ reasons for acting in certain ways. It is also important to determine whether these words are words that you hear repeatedly from others. If they are, this is a reason for pause, but if those words are unique and negative and don’t represent a general impression of what others consider you to be, you must gather your wits about you and maintain your dignity and the trust that you have in yourself. Pain, as difficult as it is to believe at the time of infliction, does fade and we must take that to build upon and learn from.<br /><br />This is undoubtedly an unusual entry. I have turned the camera away from the country and onto to me. I promise, it shall not always be this way.<br /><br />Keep reading, I’ve got lots more to say about this fascinating country in upcoming entries.<br /><br />Love,<br /><br />L </div></div>Lhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07266164231840295693noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-34194462.post-16279282052907999852006-12-28T11:07:00.002+09:002008-04-18T13:56:47.817+09:00Christmas Parties and Noraebangs<DIV align=justify>Hello all! It's been a while and I meant to put this up weeks ago, but you know how life is...This has been a bit of a rocky New Year so far but I have faith that things will work out. For the first time, I've had trouble with some of my students. Three of them, in three different classes, all of whom are men and are in their early to mid 30s. For some reason, they have issues with me and it makes teaching them a bit on the difficult side. And for those of you who know me well, I'm a pretty sensitive person so it's a bit hard to deal with that kind of blatant rejection. I do have to tell myself that it's impossible for everyone to like me and it does work most of the time, but not always. But anyway, let me give you some fun stuff to read about and some fun pictures to look at. <A href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqk-mSAjH0yyux0F1ceUZXcIpreZCWJZZcjEseMBAffvp-r1Z4wvadGRnAuzWoryGl1iaPY2MAl9hy0KmV3e1yVj6Dt0DKkAu0FcYBIhyO9nI4uLZUqMWpSQ98AfgDUPt5tpbVtw/s1600-h/2006구ë¡íì025.jpg"><IMG id=BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5056906631160173906 style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqk-mSAjH0yyux0F1ceUZXcIpreZCWJZZcjEseMBAffvp-r1Z4wvadGRnAuzWoryGl1iaPY2MAl9hy0KmV3e1yVj6Dt0DKkAu0FcYBIhyO9nI4uLZUqMWpSQ98AfgDUPt5tpbVtw/s200/2006%EA%B5%AC%EB%A1%9C%ED%95%99%EC%9B%90025.jpg" border=0></A> </DIV><br /><DIV align=justify></DIV><br /><DIV align=justify>'Tis a pleasure to be getting back to you not only with new pictures but also with some videos taken at the Noraebang on December 23rd, 2006. It was an awesome night. Let me start from the beginning:Our office decided to have a Christmas party for everyone. Earlier in the day, one of the teacher's, Son Mi, took me to a place that I will be forever grateful to her for: an outdoor local market close to my neighborhood. I had asked people for months about where I could go buy groceries because I found E-Mart so expensive! And it truly is. Though it's kind of like a K-Mart, the food section is ridiculously expensive and I cringe whenever I go to the checkout section. Son Mi opened up my world to a wonderfully fresh market where you can find pretty much anything and vegetables and meat are way cheaper than at E-Mart. I have found my new shopping district. Now, whenever I want to go to the market, all I have to do is hop on a bus and take a 10 minute ride and I'm there! Though I didn't have my camera and therefore didn't take pictures of the market, we nonetheless had lunch there and I tried something new: <STRONG><EM>Soondae</EM></STRONG> and <STRONG><EM>Kope Chang</EM></STRONG> with glass noodles in a hot and spicy sauce. <IMG id=BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5190437105638274418 style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: hand; TEXT-ALIGN: center" height=141 alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiN-lihYUaQ1QX_bK-AYDEIdY9jygyrkR7xoR2DpvVT8sxhkwsH-OrgCWgFJhAEABgYzg7nH87CvngQyDNX5q3VAHX4EEhJNV_ZlDefOKfePdz0v_NrTksDbBaBNaIDuxqM3n3jKA/s400/683645398107_0_SM%5B1%5D.jpg" width=167 border=0>Okay, so let me explain. Many foreigners hate Soondae because in truth it is blood sausage. But my images of blood sausage up until then was French style 'boudin', which is coagulated blood cooked in the intestinal pouch of beef (I think, or maybe it's pork?). I have tried boudin and was not really crazy about the texture nor the idea of literally eating blood. I was expecting the same thing here so I was a bit apprehensive but was willing to try anyway. As an appetizer we had some cold Soondae and liver pate. The liver was excellent, by the way. I tried the soondae and was surprised to find out that the intestinal lining was not filled with blood but was instead stuffed with glass noodles. Yes, there is some blood, but it wasn’t swimming in it and I didn’t feel like I was eating pure blood. It was not bad! Not something I’d order on a regular basis, but all in all, not bad. Our main course arrived and I thought we were going to have noodles with soondae and pieces of pork. Well, dear friends, Kope Chang is actually tripe! Yup, innards and innards for lunch. It was a surprise, like I said, but all in all, not bad. I’m not a big fan of innards but my grandmother used to make tripe in a sauce when I would visit her in the summers and it wasn’t bad either. So, though I think I’ll never be a fan of this type of food (innards etc…) it’s nice to eat different things from time to time. After eating, I bought onions, pork, beef, mushrooms, beans, broccoli and tomatoes for the incredible price of 20,000won. It would have cost me twice that much at E-Mart. Don’t you just love outdoor markets! Upon returning to my place we had some tea to warm us up and then Son Mi helped me choose something for the Christmas party, something Christmassy. It was fun to dress up since I do that so rarely. The party was lots of fun. There were only two of us there that were non-Korean speakers but that was part of the fun. We were nicely integrated into the cultural feel of Christmas in Korea. <A href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgscwHU7cTSJQk3TnMQnyRZSU_gehkhcpXmy140dDOJOMdgQ6kcINrOVQpighFDVY3oegGaJ24dE3uMVsImKKz1UmHyYJQIeIjn3Oxdh4ZLjEHMHPuNeAuWcQB54g8qy2U7d5tn0A/s1600-h/2006구ë¡íì018.jpg"><IMG id=BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5056906382052070706 style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgscwHU7cTSJQk3TnMQnyRZSU_gehkhcpXmy140dDOJOMdgQ6kcINrOVQpighFDVY3oegGaJ24dE3uMVsImKKz1UmHyYJQIeIjn3Oxdh4ZLjEHMHPuNeAuWcQB54g8qy2U7d5tn0A/s200/2006%EA%B5%AC%EB%A1%9C%ED%95%99%EC%9B%90018.jpg" border=0></A> We had an interesting gift-exchange system that I would recommend to you guys in future years with large groups of friends or with co-workers. Each person bought a gift that could be used by a woman or man. Numbers were mixed in a box and people had to pick a number. The first number has the worst luck because they had to pick one gift and they are stuck with it. The last person, number 20 for example, could either choose the last gift on the table or choose any other person’s gift among the people who has already opened their presents. So the idea is that you can steal someone else’s gift that has been opened. I was lucky enough that no one wanted my nice scarf but there were many other exchanges that were pretty funny because people were running away from the people who wanted to take their gift. We had a blast. There was good music, good food and good company. <A href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4zd_6l5me9UEf_mrHwBnGZRjZCHd4heBowmuHflX0Vnpcii3cyo-p4aYKfXaVNpdU11ayWZRXNCBjHCHskTgf2wr_IYTNOxOgyu6YGcOluDxoFL7VQJtycFNRwYUQkHNAsVb7dA/s1600-h/2006구ë¡íì043.jpg"><IMG id=BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5056906493721220418 style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4zd_6l5me9UEf_mrHwBnGZRjZCHd4heBowmuHflX0Vnpcii3cyo-p4aYKfXaVNpdU11ayWZRXNCBjHCHskTgf2wr_IYTNOxOgyu6YGcOluDxoFL7VQJtycFNRwYUQkHNAsVb7dA/s200/2006%EA%B5%AC%EB%A1%9C%ED%95%99%EC%9B%90043.jpg" border=0></A> After leaving the office we decided to go to a <STRONG><EM>Noraebang</EM></STRONG>, which is a Korean-style Karaoke. It was awesome. My first time to a Noraebang in Korean, there were 20 of us and we got a big room in a Noraebang a block from our work. We sang for hours and drank and danced and played drums with Moon Jong’s daughter. There were a lot of songs to choose from and pretty much everyone took a shot at the microphones. But the star of the night was our boss, Cane, whom you will see in all his glory in many of the pictures I have posted. You will also get to see short videos of me dancing and fooling around (incidentally also a bit sloshed) with the boys while they sang horribly and loudly into the mikes.<br /><OBJECT class=BLOG_video_class id=BLOG_video-d8b5854bf44ea2c1 height=266 width=320 contentid="d8b5854bf44ea2c1"></OBJECT></DIV><br /><DIV align=justify></DIV><br /><DIV align=justify></DIV><br /><DIV align=justify>Hope you enjoy our moments of glory. Love ya! L</DIV><br /><BLOCKQUOTE></BLOCKQUOTE><br /><BLOCKQUOTE></BLOCKQUOTE>Lhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07266164231840295693noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-34194462.post-39232805031587082512006-12-20T09:45:00.000+09:002006-12-21T17:56:58.670+09:00Korean Weddings etc...Hello all!<br /><br />Hope you are well. I'm here to guide you through the new pictures I put up on the Kodak Gallery. You are invited to check that out as soon as your done reading this.<br /><br />About a month ago, one of our teachers here at YBM, <strong>Son Hwa</strong>, invited all the teachers to her wedding. I was so excited to see a typical modern/traditional Korean wedding ceremony. So here it goes:<br /><br />Most weddings take place in beautifully decorated halls in highrises. Seeing as she is Protestant (which they call Christian here; they make a distinction between being Christian and being Catholic) they had a spiritual Western ceremony with a very vivacious pastor who used his microphone to the full extent of its capacities. Even if you wanted to block him out, it was impossible. But I could see he seemed to really believe what he was saying and I learned a new word that day: <strong><em>하나님(Hananim),</em></strong> which means God.<br /><br />I was warned previous to the wedding that Korean weddings are typically very loud affairs and that I shouldn't get offended because a lot of people standing in the back of this open hall would be talking as if at a social event, which this kind of is. You see, the halls are not closed off and weddings take about 15 minutes. Actually, let me backtrack a little. First the bride goes into a tiny room for professional pictures before the wedding while the organizers hurry to set up the place for the new couple. Then the wedding takes place and basically anybody can attend it because the hall is open in the back where there is a hallway separating the ceremonial hall from the buffet area.<br /><br />The tradition is to give about 10,000won (around 10 dollars) to pay for your meal. The buffet is huge and has a whole multitude of different kinds of food fit for a king. So we saw the fiery speech by the pastor/minister and then the tradition is to go take professional pictures with the newlyweds. First there are the pictures with the family, then there are pictures with co-workers and friends, so we got to be in that one! There is another roll somewhere in my plastic bag full of a dozen rolls of film with more pictures, but I'll just add them when I get around to developing them. After taking the pictures, we went to eat but only had about 30 minutes before we were kicked out (they had to prepare another buffet...). But we were to be treated by another amazing and, this time, very new experience for me: the traditional Korean Wedding ceremony.<br /><br />Okay, so it was not exactly 100% traditional, but still... traditionally, the ceremony takes place at the bride's house (in the garden) and the groom comes into the garden riding a horse and the bride is being carried in a kind of man-held carriage of the olden days...now, most Korean weddings take place in halls after the Western style wedding is over and that's what happened that day. We went to a much smaller room where Son Hwa was already dressed in all her glory in this gorgeous red wedding hanbok.<br /><br />Traditionally, red is a symbol for celebration and white a symbol for death, actually quite like India. Today, close family members of the deceased people still wear a traditional white hanboks, specific to funerals, but most other people have reverted to wearing black. So, there are a good number of pictures of this traditional Korean wedding with the appropriate explanations per picture. Feel free to make comments or ask questions.<br /><br />After the wedding I went to have coffee with the Korean teachers. It was a really nice time that day. Aside from the Korean wedding, I have had some other cool experiences. My former boss asked me to check out the universities that they have partnerships with so I arranged to have a tour of Korea University, one of the most prestigious universities in Korea. It was a gorgeous campus and probably the most hi-tech university I've ever seen with amazing computer and multimedia labs. Anyway, I took some shots of the typical colors we could find in the city during the fall. Gorgeous colors!<br /><br />My current boss invited some of the teachers to see a Premier League Soccer game at one of the World Cup stadiums a few weeks ago. And of course, it had to be the coldest day of the year so far that day with about -11degrees Celcius. We were jumping up and down trying to stay warm while the manly men plied themselves with beer to stave off the cold.<br /><br />After the game, I was convinced to go out for dinner though I was tired and I'm so glad I was encouraged to do so. We went to a typical <em><strong>Hwe</strong> </em>restaurant for dinner. Hwe is the name for raw fish in Korean. We had flounder which was excellent and when asked what follow-up dish we wanted, Todd suggested the wonder of wonders...live baby octopus (<strong><em>sannakji</em></strong>)! I was totally for it. So we ordered it and when it arrived, the little suckers were squirming all over the plate! It was crazy! I wish I had had a video camera to be able to show you how impressive it was. Some of the tentacles were even moving off the plate!<br /><br />The dish was garnished with slivers of raw cucumber and sesame seeds and we had to dip the octopus in sesame oil before putting it in our mouths. We tried to get the things with our chopsticks but it was impossible. They were sticking to each other and to the plate so we had to take them with our fingers. They stuck to our fingers! I finally put it into my mouth, all for the extraordinary experience, and I felt the tentacles sticking to the inside of my mouth, suctioned fast. It was such a strange and alarming and cool experience all rolled up into one! I had to chew very quickly to get it to stop sticking. It was a lot of fun and it was actually quite delicious! We washed it down with <strong><em>sansachun</em></strong>, my new favorite Korean alcohol beverage which tastes a bit like white wine.<br /><br />Well, those are my experiences up to date! There are a few extra pictures that are randomly added but are explained at the bottom of the pictures (as are all pictures, of course)<br /><br />Love!<br /><br />LLhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07266164231840295693noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-34194462.post-67461180947107273552006-12-04T16:25:00.000+09:002006-12-05T10:40:09.174+09:00Comment Acceder aux Photos sur Kodak GalleryBonjour!<br /><br />J'ai reussi a creer un compte pour le site de Kodak Gallery ou vous pouvez acceder aux photos de la Coree.<br /><br />Vous n'avez qu'appuyer sur le bouton marque Kodak Gallery et mettre:<br /><br />username: leitainkorea@yahoo.com<br /><br />password: traveler<br /><br />A bientot!Lhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07266164231840295693noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-34194462.post-35132099578862940592006-12-04T16:22:00.000+09:002006-12-28T11:30:13.640+09:00How To View Pictures on KodakGalleryHi,<br /><br />I created a new username and password so that you can access my pictures on Kodak Gallery without having to create your own username and password.<br /><br />To access these pictures, just click on the Kodak Gallery link and then enter in the following information:<br /><br />username: leitainkorea@yahoo.com<br /><br />password: traveler<br /><br />and you're in!<br /><br />Enjoy!!!!Lhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07266164231840295693noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-34194462.post-59160096203596252242006-11-27T17:13:00.000+09:002006-12-04T15:48:10.445+09:00E.V. Chu-Seok<a href="http://photos1.blogger.com/x/blogger2/1054/4174/1600/193434/000005.jpg"><img style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: hand; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://photos1.blogger.com/x/blogger2/1054/4174/320/213559/000005.jpg" border="0" /></a> <div><div><div>In the first week of October, Korea was scrambling to prepare for one of the biggest holidays of the year: Chu-Seok. Chu-Seok is the Korean equivalent of Thanksgiving, the harvesting time here and therefore also the time to spend with family, not eating turkey but instead kimchi and other delights. Chu-Seok fell on October 6th this year, a Friday, but was preceded by Korean National Foundation Day on the 3rd of October creating a week-long holiday for most office workers in Korea. People rushed to buy gifts and food and often went home to the countryside to spend this time with family. Some of my students admitted that they experienced stress during such a period, but most talked about feeling good during this time. I have been closely observing the Korean way of life and family is by far the most important thing in people's lives here. This love/devotion to family can be both healing and destructive as honor is prized above other things and people often feel forced to accomplish things or fit in merely from the familial and social pressures. </div><div></div><div>The pictures depicted here are some eye candy for the many places in Seoul that I visited during that week. Mi-Hwa, a sweet former student of mine as well as a former staff member of my YBM Guro location took me to Gyonbokgung Palace the day before Chu-Seok to show me a symbol of Korean history and culture. It was a beautifully warm day with a bright sun and I felt as though we had left the city to go into a new world. I didn't get a chance to go to the three museums on site that day, but I plan to do that sometime in the coming months. I truly felt the Asian pull that day and finally felt really ensconced in Asia since my arrival. This palace looks like the palaces you see in movies of ancient Chinese civilizations...it was awesome to walk through this gigantic area where kings and queens used to walk hundreds of years earlier.</div><div><br /></div><a href="http://photos1.blogger.com/x/blogger2/1054/4174/1600/4918/000008.jpg"><img style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: hand; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://photos1.blogger.com/x/blogger2/1054/4174/320/592685/000008.jpg" border="0" /></a><br />After the Palace, we went to have dinner in Jongno where I had samgyopsal for the first time. Absolutely delicious and probably the dish I like the best here though there is so much to choose from! It is basically bbq pork, though not with the western bbq sauce you might be thinking of. Kalbi is also delicious but is beef instead of pork and is traditionally much more expensive than pork here. Here, you can have samgyopsal for two as well as Kimchi Kalguksu for about 20,000won. It's pretty cheap for two people. </div><div></div><div>After dinner we walked along the Chyungyechun Canal at night, the first time I was to see it lit up. It was gorgeous and I've taken pictures but the quality is not great online. The original pictures are nicer. This area of Jongno is known for being quite romantic and you will see tons of couples holding hands there. It can be a bit discouraging for us single ones, but it's still a nice sight to see. </div><div></div><div>After that, we walked down a bit and passed in front of Doksu Palace. We didn't go inside but Mi Hwa indicated that the sidewalk in front of the Palace is notorious for relationship break-ups. People have been known to bring their significant other there to break up with them. How sad and crass! Imagine your boyfriend telling you, "babe, let's go for a walk", and you find yourself in front of Doksu and you know exactly what will happen! ;)</div><div></div><div>Doksu is right next to the City Hall where the world filmed Korea watching the World Cup. Imagine that place with millions up people up and down the street and spread out on the grass here. There are many large screens on sides of buildings in this part of town for such occasions.</div><div></div><div>The next day, I was invited to Incheon to have Chu-Seok dinner with Harvey, a former teacher at YBM and his girlfriend Young-In. It was fun! I had song-pyon for the first time, a type of Tok (traditional Korean dessert made with rice paste and sweet, but not too much). This type of tok comes in green or white. The green version is made with some type of herb but I didn't like it as much. The white one has a sweet center made with sesame seeds and some kind of syrup. Yummy! After hanging out at their place for a while, we went to dinner where I had Kalbi for the first time. It was really good! That's the picture you see below.<br /></div><div><div><div><a href="http://photos1.blogger.com/x/blogger2/1054/4174/1600/24810/000003.jpg"><img style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: hand; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://photos1.blogger.com/x/blogger2/1054/4174/320/100082/000003.jpg" border="0" /></a><br />Young-In is camera shy but apart from that, she's more outgoing than I am! Definitely not a typical Korean woman! The next day, Harvey and Young-In came into town (Incheon is a suburb of several million people about an hour's subway ride outside of central Seoul). We went to the annual Seoul Drum Festival which took place at another old palace in the north-western part of Seoul. It was awesome! There were musicians from around the world such as Senegal, Singapore, Italy and Japan. There were also many Koreans percussionists playing all kinds of music, from traditional (awesome but difficult to describe) to classical (western) to modern.<br /><br />That was my basic Chu-Seok experience. The pictures you will discover by clicking on the Kodak Gallery link will also show you times I spent in Insadong at a teahouse with a French friend I made when I arrived. We went to a teahouse where we had gamjajin, a type of potato pancake, in a wonderful atmosphere of orange lamps and tons of plants. You will also see a picture of some of the teacher's from YBM who went out to have a girls' night out eating Kalbi and sampgyopsal as well as Hote-Tok, a delicious Korean-style donut. <br /><br />We also spent some time in Insadong where we watched a man in a window demonstrate how to make Chinese pasta. It was the most amazing process! He took a wad of dough and proceeded to multiply the dough into spaghetti pieces! He mutiplied it into such thin pieces with this amazing rhythm that it was like a dance... And then we saw the same exact process done with...honey! Can you imagine! I took pictures of the making of the honey dessert called Kkul Tarea. They didn't come out perfectly but I think well enough for you to see how it's done.<br /><br />I've labeled all the pictures so that you can know all you need to know. Feel free to ask questions if all is not clear. <br /><br />Other interesting things:<br /><br />1. I've discovered something I like better than Soju, though it's a bit more expensive: San Sa Chune.<br /><br />2. The largest cut of bills in the Korean Won is 10,000, which is the equivalent of about 12 Canadian dollars. So imagine wanting to take out a hundred dollars or more. You end up with such a huge wad of cash that you feel like hiding!<br /><br />I will try to take some pictures of my apartment so that you can see it in its finished glory, now that I have my stuff here! I love my place!<br /><br />Till next time!<br /><br />Love,<br /><br />L<br /><br /><br /><br /><br /></div><div></div></div></div></div>Lhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07266164231840295693noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-34194462.post-1161939672537741732006-10-27T17:20:00.000+09:002006-12-04T15:48:50.070+09:00E.V. Personal Observations<ol><li><div align="justify">When you order coffee at a cafe, sugar comes in liquid form. I'm not sure what plant the sugar here comes from, but it's a cool concept that I have not seen used on such a wide scale before.</div></li><li><div align="justify">Ashtrays here are either filled with coffee or white napkins. This prevents the smoke from continuing to float after people have finished smoking and therefore prevents any extra smells. I think everyone should adopt this system! In addition, though many men smoke here, the restaurants are not very smokey and people don't smoke in your face. Most people smoke in the street but not so much in restaurants. I've heard that they will soon ban smoking in all restaurants though some restaurants have banned it individually already.</div></li><li><div align="justify">Gingko Biloba trees are everywhere here! They are beautiful trees with leaves that look like little green fans that produce a fruit which looks like a yellow cherry. The fruits have been falling from the trees that line almost all streets in Seoul recently and you can find older men and women picking them up everyday. I've found out that they often roast the gingko nuts as they would chestnuts and that apparently it's good for the health to protect against something or another. (Dad, I will let you explain to everyone what the health benefits are because I remember you being the first person to once talk to me about the gingko biloba; just sign up and post a message) I must say this though... for the longest time, whenever I was walking home in the afternoons I would smell what smelled like vomit always in the same spot and I thought it was pretty disgusting but having grown up with all kinds of smells in Haiti, I never thought to ask. I later found out that ripe gingko nuts, when they have splattered on the sidewalk and the sun has baked them a bit, give of the wonderful smell of vomit, just in case you needed a little pick-me-up. It was a revelation...</div></li><li><div align="justify">The older women in this country are called <strong>hadjimas</strong>, or aunts. They are referred in this way by all people as a general sign of respect to the elders although some Koreans have told me that it's no longer acceptable to call them such. I'm in a constant state of confusion because some people say some things are okay and others say they aren't... An interesting little observation Lori led me to discover is that when walking up hills, hadjimas will walk backwards in order to keep from getting too tired. I saw this one day and it was a pretty strange and yet very cool site. In Haiti, people walk in a zig-zag manner. It's so amazing traveling, you guys. You end up noticing the slightest little things that make this world so incredibly diverse and interesting.</div></li><li><div align="justify">The Fall here is amazing. It only started getting colder this week (October 23ish) and we've had a few showers but apparently Korea is known for having an average of 4 sunny days to 3 overcast days. I tell you, those odds are better than those of Strasbourg for me. All ready, in the two months I've been here, I've seen more sun than I did in 4 months in Strasbourg. Thank God for that!</div></li><li><div align="justify">The rainy season here is not in the Spring, as most would think, but in the Summer like in Florida. Guess why? In the summer it's typhoon season and therefore they can get torrential rains and it gets really humid as well. We'll have to see about that...</div></li><li><div align="justify">I have noticed a few times now, a great big cauldron filled with bugs that are cooking in the streets of Insadong and have realize that they consist of <strong>Bondegi</strong>, silk-worm larvae. The smell is atrocious but my curiosity is great. I will let you know when I have mustered up the courage to try it.</div></li><li><div align="justify">Learning Korean is so hard! I take 7 1/2 hours of Korean a week and I'm not moving nearly as quickly with it as I had hoped. I'm afraid that I will not reach my goal of understanding 50% by December but I'm not giving up! The Koreans seems impressed with my progress but I still feel bogged down by it. It does feel good to be able to ask for milk at the convenient store though!</div></li><li><div align="justify">The food here continues to amaze me. The more dishes I try, the more I'm falling in love with the food and the side dishes! People here are surprised that I tend to gravitate towards all the spicy dishes. I guess they aren't used to seeing foreigners grab the green peppers and bite into them as though they were carrots! But I will speak of food another time.</div></li><li><div align="justify">The people here continue to amaze me with their kindness and generosity. I have started to get even closer to the female Korean teachers here and I'm finding them such a welcome addition to my life. There is an easy bond here that has formed in 2 months in Seoul that I didn't find in 3 years in Strasbourg. It's funny how people are. Don't get me wrong, I did make some good friends in Strasbourg, but it was a long process and it was only as I was preparing to leave that my friendships started to solidify. The friendships here are solidifying at an amazing rate and I've been invited to spend a weekend hiking in a mountain close to the hometown of one of the teachers in 3 weeks. Her family lives in one of the oldest cities in Korea and I will hopefully get a chance to visit that city as well. I'm really excited as I have not really left Seoul since getting here.</div></li><li><div align="justify">And lastly, I am still enjoying my classes. The diversity of the students and the levels of the classes are a pleasure and though preparation takes a long time, I'm trying to mix things up and have incorporated music days where we listen and dissect music by Bjork, Sting, Brian Adams, The Cranberries, Sheryl Crow, Robbie Robertson and Sade. It adds some spice!</div></li><li><div align="justify">Keep the comments coming guys! I love to hear what you think!</div></li></ol>Lhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07266164231840295693noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-34194462.post-1161936874397869752006-10-27T16:53:00.001+09:002006-12-04T15:55:06.602+09:00V.F. 10 Raisons d'Etre Coreen<span style="color:#000066;">10 Raisons d'Etre Coreen - Anonyme<br /><br /><br /></span><ol><li><div align="justify"><span style="color:#000066;">La nouriture est delicieuse; on peut manger comme un refugie sans prendre du poids<strong> (tres vraie! J'ai perdu du poids depuis mon arrivee et les gens mangent enormement ici!)</strong></span></div></li><li><div align="justify"><span style="color:#000066;">On peut acheter une nouvelle voiture pour le montant de deux mois de salaire <strong>(apparement ceci etait vraie il y a 30 ans mais plus maintenant)</strong></span></div></li><li><div align="justify"><span style="color:#000066;">On peut grimpee une montagne dans la campagne sans avoir besoin d'equipment special <strong>(je vous tiendrai au courant...)</strong></span></div></li><li><div align="justify"><span style="color:#000066;">On peut connaitre les gouts musicaux des conducteurs de bus et de taxis en montant dans leur vehicule <strong>(je n'ai pas vraiment note ceci, mais peut etre je suis immunise)</strong></span></div></li><li><div align="justify"><span style="color:#000066;">Quatres saisons et 5000 ans d'histoire <strong>(certainment vrai en ce qui concerne l'histoire, et c'est une histoire fascinante, mais pour l'instant je connais qu'une saison et c'est geniale. Nous avons eu des temperatures dans les environs de 24 degres Celcius les mois de Septembre et Octobre. C'est geniale!)</strong></span></div></li><li><div align="justify"><span style="color:#000066;">Le soju coute autant que l'eau <strong>(ceci est vrai! Souvenez vous que le soju est une boisson alcoholise a base de riz ou patate qui a un gout un peu comme du sake japonais mais qui est bu frais)</strong></span></div></li><li><div align="justify"><span style="color:#000066;">Les lois de la rue ne sont jamais applique <strong>(je ne peux pas vous dire pour cela vu que je ne conduis pas encore ici, mais je compte passer mon permis ici a un moment donne)</strong></span></div></li><li><div align="justify"><span style="color:#000066;">On peut payer le percepteur avec l'argent de poche <strong>(je ne suis pas vraiment persuade par ce commentaire puisque j'ai du verse a peu pret 300,000 won pour mon premier mois de salaire qui est environ 250euros mais ceci inclus aussi l'assurance maladie et l'assurance retraite)</strong></span></div></li><li><div align="justify"><span style="color:#000066;">Tous les restaurants offrent une sorte de nouriture "d'endurance" <strong>(Eh oui! En Coree le concept de l'endurance dans la nouriture est enorme! Tous est promu pour nous informer des avantages des produits sur la sante. Mes etudiants hommes m'ont dit qu'en ete ils boivent souvent la soup a la viande de chien parcequ'en ete il fait tres chaud et ils ont besoin de l'endurance pour bien travailler. La viande de chien est un exemple de nouriture d'endurance. Je vais devoir en essayer un jour...)</strong></span></div></li><li><div align="justify"><span style="color:#000066;">Les taxis et le tabac sont omnipresent et bon marche <strong>(Disont que ce n'est pas difficile de trouver un taxi ici. Heureusement! Apres mes mesavantures a Strasbourg ou les conducteurs de taxis refusaient de me prendre au plein milieu d'hiver a 3hrs du matin, c'est bien de savoir qu'ici j'ai pas mal de choix et ce n'est pas trop cher!)</strong></span></div></li></ol><strong></strong>Lhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07266164231840295693noreply@blogger.com0